The Balkans, Greece, Turkey then Serbia

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by Doogle, Sep 10, 2021.

  1. DavidM1

    DavidM1 Stir crazy

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    I hope the Chios-Cesme ferry is running. I heard that the Greece-Turkey ferries were not operating because of covid, maybe that's old news. (The Erturk website is not very helpful but the Bodrum ferry company says "The trips to Greek Islands are suspended because of COVID-19").

    There's always a Blue Star ferry from Chios to Thessaloniki every Saturday, if you need to go round.
    #41
  2. Doogle

    Doogle Do it while you can Supporter

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    Thanks John. Beginning to wonder if I'd ever grt here. It's been a top trip for me.
    #42
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  3. Doogle

    Doogle Do it while you can Supporter

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    Thanks for that info. I'll check before taking the 9 hour trip to Chios. I'd rather ride than take the ferry to Thessaloniki.
    #43
  4. Doogle

    Doogle Do it while you can Supporter

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    9-28-21 Olia Hotel $110 Mykonos 43 miles

    An inmate on AdvRider (David M1)
    messaged me and said he thought the ferry from Chios to Turkey had been suspended. I'm glad I read that before getting on the 9 pm ferry to Chios. I got a room across from the ferry terminal, and will be going back to Rafina, where I left from. The ferry leaves at 7:30 am. It will be another 800 miles riding to start the Turkey trip.

    Today I went to Super Paradise Beach and Paradise Beach. These are hard party places in the summer season. Next I went to see the Mykonos windmills. Most were built in the 16th century to mill wheat. From there I walked down to, I'll call it Church Town. There are 5 or 6 small churches within about 100 feet of each other. They were built between the 14th and 17th century. Then I walked up and down many narrow alleys. They must have a code that says most houses must be white. A did see a small amphiteater. I walked through a small cemetery. Most of the markers were dated 2017 through 2021. It wasn't a new cemetery. There wasn't anyone around to ask where the older graves were. Most people who come to Mykonos must rent scooters or quads. The rental lots are everywhere.


    2021-09-28 Mykonos  (1).jpg 2021-09-28 Mykonos  (3).jpg 2021-09-28 Mykonos  (4).jpg 2021-09-28 Mykonos  (6).jpg 2021-09-28 Mykonos  (7).jpg 2021-09-28 Mykonos  (9).jpg 2021-09-28 Mykonos  (10).jpg 2021-09-28 Mykonos  (12).jpg 2021-09-28 Mykonos  (13).jpg 2021-09-28 Mykonos  (14).jpg 2021-09-28 Mykonos  (15).jpg 2021-09-28 Mykonos  (18).jpg 2021-09-28 Mykonos  (19).jpg 2021-09-28 Mykonos  (20).jpg 2021-09-28 Mykonos  (21).jpg 2021-09-28 Mykonos  (22).jpg 2021-09-28 Paradise Beach  (1).jpg 2021-09-28 Super Paradise Beach  (1).jpg 2021-09-28 Super Paradise Beach  (4).jpg 2021-09-28 Super Paradise Beach  (6).jpg 2021-09-28 Super Paradise Beach  (7).jpg 20212-09-28 Hermes Hotel  (1).jpg 20212-09-28 Hermes Hotel  (2).jpg 20212-09-28 Hermes Hotel  (3).jpg
    #44
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  5. Doogle

    Doogle Do it while you can Supporter

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    9-29-21 Casa Verde Hotel $60 Lagkadas, Greece 379 miles
    I was up at 6:15 and loaded the bike by 6:30. Hotel breakfast was at 7:30. I checked to see if coffee might be out early. No. So I rode over to the dock, bought my ticket, and boarded. 25 minutes until they start rowing away. I should be in Rafina a little after noon. I hope to ride to Thessoloniki before getting a room. A member on AdvRider invited me for a beer a couple weeks ago if I were in the area. It wasn't on my route then. Now that it is, I can't recall his name or find his contact info. I may stop at a truck tire repair shop a hundred miles up the road if I can find it. When on my Round The World trip my wheel broke there. The brothers at the shop took me to a hotel, picked me up in the morning and took me to a bus stop going to Athens, and they put my replacement wheel on when I returned. I probably won't find the shop. But I will try.
    It's 10:15 pm and I just found a hotel. I did find the brothers tire shop and talked with them a while. I showed them a picture I took when there in 2013. They remembered me. The one brother took me to a pile of old tires and was searching for my old wheel and tire. He couldn't find it. It was a good visit and talk with them. I planned to get a hotel in Thessoloniki, but I was past it before I knew it. Then my fuel gauge started flashing. It was another 20 miles to the next exit. I stopped to pay another toll and asked how far to a station. She said 10 minutes. 5 minutes later I had another Doug Event. I coasted a half mile. Then I had an easy downhill push, and a not so easy uphill push. I coasted off the toll road into an LPG station. No gas and closed anyway. I walked 1 1/4 miles in the dark to that closed BP station. Did I mention it was a light drizzle the last 3 hours. Another 1/4 mile and I managed to get a family to help me. They gave me 2 liters of gas in a container. Then I walked 1 1/2 miles back to the bike. It got me to a Ladkadas gas station. This bike's tank holds 18 liters. The bike I originally was going to rent held 20.3 liters. I was thinking I had more gas when lights started flashing. I stopped at their fire station and asked where a hotel was. The man I asked was a biker also. We talked a while and then he told me where the better of the 2 hotels was located. I got here and I am tired again.
    2013-08-05 Mechanic and helper.jpg 2013-08-05 My rear wheel  (1).jpg 2021-09-29 Olias Hotel  (1).jpg 2021-09-29 Olias Hotel  (2).jpg 2021-09-29 Tire shop brothers .jpg
    #45
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  6. robert110411

    robert110411 Long timer

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    When I was there I still has to carry a rifle and wear body armor every day. They were still finding mass graves.

    Its on my bucket list to go see Bosnia under different circumstances one day.
    #46
  7. Doogle

    Doogle Do it while you can Supporter

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    For me it was all good and great friendly people.
    #47
  8. DavidM1

    DavidM1 Stir crazy

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    Those Aegean islands are definitely calling me back, great fun on a motorbike (last visited in '93). I hope the crossing to Turkey will be OK next year.

    I like your photos, Doogle. Looking forward to your Turkey section, it's my favourite riding country.
    #48
    Doogle likes this.
  9. Doogle

    Doogle Do it while you can Supporter

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    9/30/21 Atak Han Hotel $14 Ezine, Turkey 350 miles

    There are so many things I'd like to write on my reports each day. But I'm too tired and prefer sleep over more details. But now I'm waiting for lunch-well it was breakfast when I ordered. So, a few other details about the trip. I've not used my translator yet. You could come and not worry about communication. Some English is everywhere, especially hotels and restaurants. Greece has toll roads. Yesterday I probably spent over $30 on tolls. But it's good getting from A to B. I'm more interested in destinations than saying "I'm a real biker. I don't ride highways." That's just me. Others can make this trip and show you pictures of roads and trees. I have a wonderful wife that lets me (makes me) do these trips. Life has been good to me. I'm not sure how good the traffic cameras may be to me. They could possibly double the price of this trip. I've gone past a couple cops with radar gun in hand, going 20 something over without punishment. But cameras may be different. Lane splitting is common here. I will do it in slow or stopped traffic. It's more difficult with big side cases sticking out. But what a time saver.
    The border crossing into Turkey took about 40 minutes. I rode in past 2 miles of trucks and got behind 4 cars. I was sent to another building to get a $30 visa. It was quick after that. Just before getting to the border, I saw a dozen Greek military personel vehicles. Just inside Turkey I saw 4 or 5 armed Turkish vehicles. There were miltary men with rifles at hand a couple places after entry. My route was set for Troy. I passed a big new bridge being built. I don't remember where it was exactly. I got to Kilitbahir and saw the Kilitbahir Castle. With names that are different than what we call them in English, I thought it may be Troy. Not. But I went in anyway. After a half hour I was on my way out and they told me Close in 5 minutes. Troy ended up being 15 miles away. And it started with a short $5 ferry ride. I thought it would be closed. But it closes at 7pm and that gave me an hour to look around. I never bought into the myth of the Trojan Horse. Before pulling the Horse into Troy, they would have looked to see what was in it, or burned it. And if there were a bunch of men hidden inside, you know one of them would have farted and started laughing. Game over. But I had to come here because it is a classic. There are 9 different levels of Troy going back to 3000 BC.
    Food. Yesterday morning I had half a package of Oreo cookies on the ferry. In the evening I had the other half of them. In my room that night I would have skipped eating, but needed to go down to reception to get the wifi password. Since I had to get dressed, I had a hamburger while I was by the restaurant. Today I had a very good breakfast. And tonight I'm having part of my emergency bag of almonds. Breakfast is only 10 hours away. I just noticed a green arrow that says KIBLE on my ceiling. I'm guessing it points to Mecca?

    2021-09-30 Casa Verde Hotel  (1).jpg 2021-09-30 Casa Verde Hotel  (2).jpg 2021-09-30 Kilitbahir Castle  (2).jpg 2021-09-30 Kilitbahir Castle  (4).jpg 2021-09-30 Kilitbahir Castle  (5).jpg 2021-09-30 Kilitbahir Castle  (6).jpg 2021-09-30 Kilitbahir Castle  (9).jpg 2021-09-30 Kilitbahir Castle  (11).jpg 2021-09-30 The bridge.jpg 2021-09-30 Troy, Turkey (1).jpg 2021-09-30 Troy, Turkey (2).jpg 2021-09-30 Troy, Turkey (5).jpg 2021-09-30 Troy, Turkey (6).jpg 2021-09-30 Troy, Turkey (9).jpg 2021-09-30 Troy, Turkey (10).jpg 2021-09-30 Troy, Turkey (12).jpg 2021-09-30 Troy, Turkey (14).jpg 2021-09-30 Troy, Turkey (15).jpg 2021-09-30 Troy, Turkey (16).jpg 2021-09-30 Troy, Turkey (18).jpg 2021-09-30 Troy, Turkey (20).jpg 2021-09-30 Troy, Turkey (21).jpg 2021-09-30 Troy, Turkey (24).jpg 2021-09-30 Troy, Turkey (25).jpg 2021-09-30 Turkey border traffic .jpg
    #49
  10. DavidM1

    DavidM1 Stir crazy

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    I suspect that new bridge will cost more than a $5 ferry ride to cross the Dardanelles.

    Edit: Most definitely - the 2.7km long Osman Gazi Bridge costs 103TL ($11) for a motorbike, the Dardenelles Bridge will be 3.5km.
    #50
  11. River Rat

    River Rat Greybeard Supporter

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    Gotta love Turkey, we found the people to be very friendly back in 2009, enjoy!!! Are you going to Pergamon and Ephesus?
    I can recommend the Urkmez Hotel in Selcuk run by 2 friendly and helpful brothers http://www.urkmezhotel.com/ , I note still getting good reviews on bookings.com
    Awesome ride report so far :thumb
    #51
  12. Doogle

    Doogle Do it while you can Supporter

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    10/1/21 Hitit Hotel $20 Selcuk, Turkey 256 miles

    Riding down the road at 9:30 I went 120 miles to Bergama and saw a sign that said Bergama Acropolis. And I see it high up on a mountain. Eventually I found the road up. It was a great setting. My guess is that these places don't just fall apart. They may be raided for the rocks to build other places. But there's enough left for visitors to enjoy. I did get pulled over by the police twice today. I think it is random checks. They wanted my drivers license and motorcycle documents.

    I got to Selcuk in the evening and rode up to Epheses Archaeological Site. Ephesus, as mentioned in the Bible was built in the 11 century B.C. and once had a population of 200,000. It is a big area. I didn't know how big until I got lost there and I couldn't find my motorcycle in the parking lot. There are 2 entrances. Mine was 3 miles down the road. I was talking to a bus driver and he took me back to the ticket gate. He told them my problem, and they let me back in free. Then it was only a half mile walk back through the site to my original entrance.

    I got a very nice room in Selcuk. I had a real meal here and then went to my room. But there was music outside. I went down to see what was going on. It was a party of about 50 people celebrating an engagement. Very entertaining. Then I went back to my room. An hour later I went back down. These people have not stopped dancing for 3 hours. At midnight I went back to my room. Many happy people there.
    2021-10-01 Bergama Acropolis  (10).jpg 2021-10-01 Bergama Acropolis  (12).jpg 2021-10-01 Bergama Acropolis  (13).jpg 2021-10-01 Bergama Acropolis  (14).jpg 2021-10-01 Bergama Acropolis  (17).jpg 2021-10-01 Bergama Acropolis  (19).jpg 2021-10-01 Bergama Acropolis  (29).jpg 2021-10-01 Engagement party  (1).jpg 2021-10-01 Ephesus Site (2).jpg 2021-10-01 Ephesus Site (9).jpg 2021-10-01 Ephesus Site (12).jpg 2021-10-01 Ephesus Site (13).jpg 2021-10-01 Ephesus Site (14).jpg 2021-10-01 Ephesus Site (15).jpg 2021-10-01 Ephesus Site (20).jpg 2021-10-01 Ephesus Site (21).jpg 2021-10-01 Ephesus Site (22).jpg 2021-10-01 Ephesus Site (24).jpg 2021-10-01 Ephesus Site (25).jpg 2021-10-01 Ephesus Site (27).jpg 2021-10-01 Ephesus Site (28).jpg 2021-10-01 Ephesus Site (30).jpg 2021-10-01 Ephesus Site (33).jpg 2021-10-01 Ephesus Site (34).jpg 2021-10-01 Ephesus Site (36).jpg
    #52
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  13. joenuclear

    joenuclear Still here....

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    Thanks! Looks like you had a great day.
    #53
  14. Doogle

    Doogle Do it while you can Supporter

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    10-2-21 Hal-Tur Hotel Pamukkale,Turkey 129 miles
    I had some disappointment today. I thought I would have a short ride, get a room early, and maybe a couple hours looking at the travertine terraces of carbonate mineral left by the flowing of thermal spring water. Then I would have a long free evening. I thought I might even spend an extra day to catch up on rest. My room is right across from the formations. I bought my $11 ticket and walked in about 100 yards. There you must take your shoes off-I think to protect the surface.I think it isn't as slippery bare footed either. It's well over a 1/4 mile hike up the white, not so soft on the feet surface. On the way down 4 hours later, I saw blood in several places. My feet were hurting on the way down.

    So my disappointment: At the top there was another whole city of ruins. There must be a city in ruins on top of every other mountain top in Turkey and Greece. This caused my short easy day to be the same long day like every other day has been. I guess it is a win/lose day. I think I may be the most interesting day so far. The ancient Greek city of Hierapolis was built here about the 2nd century BC. As with many other old cities it's demise was caused by an earthquake, newly conquered empires removing references of things they didn't like, and using building materials for other projects. The terraces were not as full of water as pictures I've seen. I guess different water flows at different seasons. But I liked all I saw.

    The different remains I saw had descriptions that were too long to read, even though I was there a long time. The names Bergama, Pergamon, and Epictetus probably mean nothing to most people. So I'll just show picture and not try to explain history, of which I only read a little. Things I saw here: The Hierapolis Theater, Pamukkale Hot Pools, Pamukkale Cleopatra’s Pool, Roman Baths.

    2021-10-02  (58).jpg 2021-10-02  (60).jpg 2021-10-02  (61).jpg 2021-10-02  (62).jpg 2021-10-02  (65).jpg 2021-10-02  (78).jpg 2021-10-02  (79).jpg 2021-10-02  (81).jpg 2021-10-02 .Pamukkale,Turkey JPG (1).jpg 2021-10-02 .Pamukkale,Turkey JPG (7).jpg 2021-10-02 .Pamukkale,Turkey JPG (22).jpg 2021-10-02 .Pamukkale,Turkey JPG (33).jpg 2021-10-02 .Pamukkale,Turkey JPG (34).jpg 2021-10-02 .Pamukkale,Turkey JPG (46).jpg 2021-10-02 .Pamukkale,Turkey JPG (47).jpg 2021-10-02 .Pamukkale,Turkey JPG (49).jpg 2021-10-02 Cleopatra's Pool (1).jpg 2021-10-02 Cleopatra's Pool (5).jpg 2021-10-02 Pamukkale Theater  (1).jpg 2021-10-02 Pamukkale Theater  (2).jpg 2021-10-02 Pamukkale Theater  (3).jpg

    Attached Files:

    #54
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  15. mercurydog47

    mercurydog47 Been here awhile

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    It was Adriatic Moto Tours. An extremely good company. This was my ninth tour with them and I am already signed up for my tenth one in 2022.
    #55
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  16. Doogle

    Doogle Do it while you can Supporter

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    10/3/21 Karlik Hotel $147 Cappodocia, Turkey 411 miles
    After breakfast I laid down on the bed and thought about a snooze. Then I looked at where I would like to go the next 2 weeks, and how much time I needed. I planned on a rest day. But at 11:00 I decided to move on to Cappadocia. I'll rest a day there. It was 411 miles of good road and very little traffic. I did pass 6 military men with rifles in hand, spaced about 20 feet apart in the road, looking at every car that went by. I must have been in apple valley for about 30 miles. Workers being dropped off and apples being picked up. I passed many piles of apples dumped on slabs. They must be for juice. I don't think shoveled eating apples would sell well.

    It was just after sunset that I found a hotel. I was cold most of the day wearing 2 long sleeve shirts and my riding coat. I also put on my heavy riding pants and heavier gloves mid day. My room is exceptional, even though the pictures don't show it. It even had a washing machine in the bathroom. I will stay here 2 nights. There is a lot I want to see here. The forecast for tomorrow is 36 low and 66 high. And I was worried Turkey might be too hot.
    2021-10-03  (1).jpg 2021-10-03 Apple harvesting.jpg 2021-10-03 Karlik Hotel, Cappadocia  (1).jpg 2021-10-03 Karlik Hotel, Cappadocia  (2).jpg 2021-10-03 Karlik Hotel, Cappadocia  (4).jpg 2021-10-03 Karlik Hotel, Cappadocia  (5).jpg 2021-10-03 Karlik Hotel, Cappadocia  (6).jpg 2021-10-03 Karlik Hotel, Cappadocia  (7).jpg 2021-10-03 Karlik Hotel, Cappadocia  (9).jpg 2021-10-03 Karlik Hotel, Cappadocia  (10).jpg 2021-10-03 Karlik Hotel, Cappadocia  (12).jpg 2021-10-03 Washing machine  (1).jpg 2021-10-03 Washing machine  (2).jpg
    #56
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  17. Doogle

    Doogle Do it while you can Supporter

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    10-4-21 Karlik Hotel $147 Cappadocia, Turkey 43 miles

    I was up past 1 am because I lost some pass words. My tablet was all Turkish. Got Google Translate so I could establish new passwords and upload my report. Kept waking up and probably had 5 hours sleep. Also another day with Oreo's and almonds for supper. I had the biggest spread of food ever for breakfast, but couldn't eat much. I didn't fell good all day-not enough sleep.
    Last night the manager of the hotel spent a lot of time with me, setting up a route of things to see. And it kept me busy all day. Cappadocia was first recorded about the 7th century BC. At one time there were about 200 cities inthat area. What I saw today surprised me at how expansive it was. My 1st stop was then Uchisar Castle. It was about 100 yards from my hotel. These places remind me of The Rock of Gibralter-cut out of rock. I went to 7 of the 8 places he wrote down for me. One place was called Love Valley. It could have been named the Valley of Johnson, Kahn's, Richard.... You'll recognize the area. My favorite, and what seemed to be the largest area, was Pasabagi and Zelve. A $3 ticket got me into both of these. They are very close to each other.
    I will post pics later if internet allows.
    #57
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  18. Doogle

    Doogle Do it while you can Supporter

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    This first batch of pictures are from part #1 -the Uchisar Castle and Love Valley.

    2021-10-04 Cappadocia  (1).jpg 2021-10-04 Cappadocia  (2).jpg 2021-10-04 Cappadocia  (3).jpg 2021-10-04 Cappadocia  (5).jpg 2021-10-04 Cappadocia  (6).jpg 2021-10-04 Cappadocia  (7).jpg 2021-10-04 Cappadocia  (9).jpg 2021-10-04 Karlik Hotel breakfast .jpg 2021-10-04 Love Valley  (1).jpg 2021-10-04 Love Valley  (2).jpg 2021-10-04 Love Valley  (3).jpg 2021-10-04 Love Valley  (4).jpg 2021-10-04 Love Valley  (5).jpg 2021-10-04 Love Valley  (6).jpg 2021-10-04 Love Valley  (7).jpg 2021-10-04 Love Valley  (8).jpg 2021-10-04 Uchisar Castle  (1).jpg 2021-10-04 Uchisar Castle  (3).jpg 2021-10-04 Uchisar Castle  (5).jpg 2021-10-04 Uchisar Castle  (7).jpg 2021-10-04 Uchisar Castle  (8).jpg 2021-10-04 Uchisar Castle  (10).jpg 2021-10-04 Uchisar Castle  (14).jpg
    #58
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  19. Sandino

    Sandino Been here awhile

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    Wowwww, amazing ride mate!!!, great pics as well!. I am on!
    #59
  20. Doogle

    Doogle Do it while you can Supporter

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    This batch of pictures are from Pasabagi and Zelve. 2021-10-04 Pasabagi JPG (2).jpg 2021-10-04 Pasabagi JPG (3).jpg 2021-10-04 Pasabagi JPG (7).jpg 2021-10-04 Pasabagi JPG (8).jpg 2021-10-04 Pasabagi JPG (11).jpg 2021-10-04 Pasabagi JPG (13).jpg 2021-10-04 Zelve  (2).jpg 2021-10-04 Zelve  (5).jpg 2021-10-04 Zelve  (7).jpg 2021-10-04 Zelve  (10).jpg 2021-10-04 Zelve  (11).jpg 2021-10-04 Zelve  (12).jpg 2021-10-04 Zelve  (13).jpg 2021-10-04 Zelve  (14).jpg 2021-10-04 Zelve  (16).jpg 2021-10-04 Zelve  (17).jpg 2021-10-04 Zelve  (18).jpg 2021-10-04 Zelve  (21).jpg 2021-10-04 Zelve  (24).jpg 2021-10-04 Zelve  (26).jpg 2021-10-04 Zelve  (28).jpg 2021-10-04 Zelve  (30).jpg 2021-10-04 Zelve  (31).jpg
    #60
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