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Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by flyingdutchman177, Nov 17, 2018.
And someone put up a fence too. It made it tougher to get to
Great bike and keep it up!
What's my favorite town in Baja? That's easy.......it's Mulege.
It is 600 miles south of the border so it's tough to get to. But, for me, it is so much better than Cabo because it still has that Baja charm.
So while Orsi was using the internet at a restaurant in town, I hopped on the Africa Twin and did some exploring around the area. Heading east into the mountains, the pavement ran out and the fun began. These kind of roads are great for the African Twin.
Mulege is an oasis in the middle of an otherwise dry desert.
Missionaries planted date palms in the area hundreds of years ago. So Date cakes, drinks and other foods are sold in the area.
I am finally enjoying the benefits of these knobby tires. Because I am testing the bike for Chris Haines, I am recommending that a more 50/50 tire be used down here. Realistically, It is just not worth the trade offs to have such a dirt biased tire when we are riding so much pavement. But this tire proved itself in conditions like this.
The Mulege River. Looks beautiful but sadly we were told that it is too polluted to swim in.
That's REALLY sad, because the river is only 2 miles, or less, long. It originates at a spring in or near town and flows into the ocean. Did you notice if the landing strip is still next to the Hotel Serinidad? Or if the Hotel is still there by that name?
I've really enjoyed following along on your rides, always entertaining.
Edited to note that the river is more like 10 miles long. Last time I was there was 20 years ago when we flew in for Thanksgiving....memory told me that someone said it was less than 2 miles from origination to ocean.
Your rear tyre looks much like a Pirelli scorpion rally or very similar tread...good choice I think for the off road terrain. True that 2 up on hard surfaces it will be eaten up quickly a heavier bike ... I adjust the route for more dirt and not the tires, but that’s the off road freak in me - and easier to do for solo riding ; )
I didn't stop by the hotel this time, but I saw the signs for it. So I am sure it is still open and I think they still do the pig roast on Saturday nights.
That one photo I posted with all the greenery is the upper reaches of the river. I would guess and say it is about 5 miles long. It sort of stops not too far from town. But after a good rain, I am sure the river will flow all the way from the mountains - 20+ miles. Just a few years ago, Mulege was hit hard by a hurricane and it swept away a few house along side the river. I few people lost their lives as well.
Google Earth shows the strip with an aircraft parked, next to the hotel. No reliable date on the imagery. I see another strip, perhaps rougher and closed on the north side of the river.
The two bikes are pretty much as you would expect. I think the BMW is a slighter better road bike. And the AT works much better off road. The AT is lighter which is always nice. But the BMW holds its weight well. One disappointed for the Honda is it is under powered for a liter bike. Not that it was a big deal - other than the time I was racing that Porsche 911 Turbo S.
Also, I thought the engine would be like The Dolphin (NC750). That bike also didn't make much power for its engine size but in got great fuel economy. The AT is pretty bad. Going slow, it can get 40+ mpg. But go at freeway speeds or above, then it can drop to 30 mpg. The suspension is far better than the BMW. But then again my BMW has over 100,000 miles on it now. And the AT has had it suspension dialed it by Precision Concepts.
I have never spent much time on a bike with all the new electronic aids. At first I hated it. And I didn't know how to work it or shut it off. In the sand, when you wanted more power, it would do the opposite and give you less (stop the rear tire from spinning). I almost crashed a few times because if the electronic aids that were supposed to keep me safe.
But then I ran into Shane Esposito - winner of last year's Baja 1000 and the 1x plate holder of this year's race - in Vizciano. He had a AT and he explained how to work the system and where the shut off switch was. This made a world of difference. I went from hate to love.
Which bike is better? It is up to you. They are both great bikes.
If only the AT was 100 pounds lighter.........
great RR!!! I live in Ensenada in case you need something.. pm if you have the time on the way north for some beers!
Founded in 1705 by Father Junípero Serra, the Mission in Mulege is the 3rd oldest surviving mission in the Californias.
And for me it is built upon the most beautiful location on the Baja peninsula
The incredibly beautiful view from the mission. Hard to believe this is still Baja
This short video of the mission and surrounding area gives a better prospective of the natural beauty of the area.
Both the hotel and airstrip are still there and open.That is a friend of mine's plane.The other airstrip on the other side of the river is the original,and not functioning.That is also next to a hotel,but the hotel has been shuttered for years.In their day,this is where Hollywood came to get away.Now,just us mere mortals.
If you are still in Mulege,Taco Tuesday tomorrow at Buenaventura.About 25 miles south of Mulege,noon until.....
Day 5 and this is where the vacation begins.
Just south of Mulege are some of my favorite beaches in the World.
We go and check them all out.
This is Playa Santispac. It is one of the most beautiful. But it is one of the most visited. We kept going, searching for a more secluded beach.
This is a short video of our first glimpse of the Bay of Conception. Wow! The water is so blue compared to the stark desert surrounding it
One reason I love Baja
great ride report, I lived in san diego for a short period of time.
I've always wanted to ride all the way down to Cabo. Maybe someday
I just stayed in Mulege at Hotel Serinidad two nights ago and the guys there said the airstrip was still in use. My wife said "airstrip..?" And it was the unpaved driveway we just rode in on but we didn't realize it.
Flying D, your last RR kept me on track this past year planning for our trip- I somehow missed this one and it sounds like we've been close through Baja! We're two up on an 1190, I'll keep an eye out for you.
Was that you two I saw on the KTM? I past a couple two up on a big KTM some time ago at the turn off to San Francisco (mountains near San Ignacio). When did you start your Baja trip?
Stop saying "someday". Just do it!
For me, the ride from San Diego to Cabo San Lucas (at the tip of the Baja peninsula) is one of the best rides you can do on a motorcycle. And living in the Western US, it makes it so much easier to do yourself. It is safe, beautiful, adventurous and exotic. And the whole trip can easily be done in a week's time. Even for European people, it is well worth making the trip over here to do it. For European people, when they want their desert fix, they tend to go to Morocco. But if you haven't been to Mexico, you need to put that on your list.
There is something special about looking at the long skinny finger of land on a globe that we call Baja and knowing that you rode your motorcycle there. And for my Cabo 1000 friends, to say you did it all in one day (and survived) is certainly magical
This is one of my favorite Beaches in Baja. It is called Playa Coyote. And it is where we were planning to stay for a few days.
But Hurricane Sergio was still affecting the weather. It wasn't raining or cloudy. But the wind was blowing in a different direction than usual. Most of the time, this beach has very tranquil water - more so than most of the other beaches. But with the wind blowing in this new direction, it was a bit choppy. Also, the water temperature had dropped. I am guessing the hurricane brought up some of the colder water from the bottom of the Gulf.
In any case, we spent a little bit of time here and then set off to look for another beach we liked better.
Here's a video of the little road to Playa Coyote. At high tide, this "road" is under water.
I miss this place Might head out in couple weeks......
Thanks for sharing Baja.
Mulege! was last down there in '97 on my GS loaded down with dive gear on the way to Cabo. Great diving off the coast, seals galore. Great dive shop/dive master, food and nice camp grounds.......need to take the AT down there - thanks for sparking that memory
Catching up on the last few days and wanted to add my newb $.02 to the riding around Catavina, it's fantastic. We ended up getting into Catavina well past dark and wanted to camp south of town, but ended up staying at the Mission Hotel (cool spot, overpriced, but still damn cool). We took a track just north of town that headed west and eventually dumped us on the Pacific - riding through the giant cacti and bajoom (sp?) trees was one of my favorite stretches of the entire trip. The rock formations and fauna in that part of Baja are simply incredible. We also stumbled across some rock drawings after seeing a sign and hiking through the desert for a bit. Hope you don't mind me posting a picture to 'em, but they're damn cool (this is only one of many).
Thoroughly enjoying the report, makes me miss Baja even more...lol.