Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Japanese polycylindered adventure bikes' started by twinrider, Mar 18, 2016.
I use S2 on my vfr. Drive is useless.
Buffeting. I hate the buffeting. Bought the tall Honda screen. Both were buffeting right near my ears on the helmet.
On a 300 mile trip. I just removed the windscreen.
Now my head is in fresh clean air. Looks like I will be trimming stock screen down to get clean air on my helmet
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It's in the DCT info on the world.honda site.
That's why I told you to ignore the break-in bs, that's about tire grip and liability, not engine break-in, it's been on a dyno already.
Do (most of the Honda dealers) they at least know about something called "DCT learning mode" ? Looks like they don't... when some don't even know how to properly tight battery ground cable ;-(
440 miles between yesterday and today and the bike is all better now. In fact it's quite awesome.
Fixes just don't get any simpler or more satisfying than that do they?
I noticed buffeting right away when I rode my AT home from the dealer tonight. My head was vibrating around and there was a loud hum. I'm 5'9" so maybe my head is exactly at the wrong height. Has anyone else had to deal with this?
Tonight I figured out that the vibration was coming from the peak visor on my Arai XD4 helmet. The slip stream coming off the top of the windscreen is hitting the peak visor just right to make it vibrate like crazy. If I put my hand on the peak visor the vibration goes away. So it's more of a helmet issue than a windscreen issue.
I can't remember where, but someone recently posted about adding a washers/spacers to the top windshield mount to move the wind a bit higher. You might try that.
My helmet (XD4) does the same thing, I have the high screen which improved the buffeting but i do still get an annoying buzz. If I'm on the highway for extended periods I'll lower the seat to try and tuck in behind the screen a bit better as well. Anything above 95kph tends to create the turbulence. Tried the STD screen on my test ride and it was worse, was offered the high screen before i bought it so thought that would eliminate the buffeting. It is much better but still gets annoying on the longer runs.
Was going to try and adjust the peak of the helmet to see if that improves the situation but haven't got that far yet, let us know if you find a solution.
I'm 6.2 and my XD4 does have a mild buzz, the standard shield throws the wind JUST at the top of the visor, if I duck my head one inch it's a huge difference, am thinking about doing the adjustable shield myself, only need an inch or so more and should be golden!!
Found the MRA X-Screen great with my XD3 and can be quickly lowered for off road vision.
After some research last night I found out that this is common with the XD4 and there is a whole thread on some fixes:
I never noticed it when I rode my KLR with the XD4 on because the entire helmet is in clean air flow. With the AT the peak visor is right in line with a stream of air coming off the top of the windscreen which is creating some pressure difference above and below the visor and causing the vibration. If I just put a finger on the visor the vibration goes away.
So I wouldn't invest too much in fixing or changing the AT windscreen, just try one of the XD4 fixes.
I'm in the US. I bought a manual which came w/ ABS, hand guards, bash plate but no center stand. Dunno about the LED indicators; I didn't bother to check.
Turn signals in US are NOT LED.
It's all part of Honda following Yamaha's Super Tenere roadmap. They'll update the AT in a few years with cruise, LED turn signals, a couple of more HP, adjustable shield, and offer a model with electronic suspension.
What do folks think of the Dunlop Trailmax D610 tyres ? There is a vid clip on a related thread where the rider has them heeled over to peg scraping. Obviously there are variables to be considered such as suspension preload and tyre pressures but in fairness he still has the bike over to a substantial angle. I have had a couple of slips here and there on tarmac that were unexpected. This happened me on the transition into a bend rather than fully heeled over. As such while I am using them to the edge of the thread (in the dry) I am still unsure about them. These are obviously not offroad tyres so their performance on gravel etc is somewhat irrelevant.
I am comparing them to European Dunlop Trail Smarts that I use on my Triumph 1200 Explorer. Imho and based on my experience to date over 2000kms with the Max's, the Smarts are a far better tyre. On the heavier bike they have never given me a moments anxiety. I would be interested to hear the opinions of others.
I dropped mine off at the dealer with an oil leak and coolant leak on the right side of the engine, 420 miles. At least it's too hot to ride right now anyway.
Here's an easy solution for those of you who are troubled by the "play" in the license plate light. Two pieces of electrical tape:
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Griff, I liked them OK on my NC700X. They were the OEM tire and decent tires for street use. Never gave me pause for concern and I had barely any chicken strip. The problem with the 610s in OEM spec 160/60-17 is that the rear tread depth starts at 5/16" rather than the 8 or 9/16ths commonly found. They wear out very quickly because they are half worn out to begin with!
Thanks for that. I saw it mentioned somewhere also that the OEM Dunlops are made specially for the AT in Japan while European Dunlops are Goodyear/Dunlop. Seems they are two different companies. I note what you are saying about thread depth but I am wondering if there is a dual compound involved. The strange sensations I am experiencing are seeming to happen on the transition from vertical to leaned over rather than at full lean which is odd. They seem ok fully leaned over. Mind you I had problems with the OEM Z8 tyres on the NC also. That was cured by a change to Michelins.