The CRF1000L Africa Twin problem thread

Discussion in 'Japanese polycylindered adventure bikes' started by twinrider, Mar 18, 2016.

  1. DockingPilot

    DockingPilot Hooked Up and Hard Over

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    Good idea Doc. The KLR guys have duct tape fixes already cornered.



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  2. ya(x2)

    ya(x2) Long timer

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    Don't wanna be the Mr. know it all here... far from my state of mind, but you should let it alone... ;-)

    I've had several bikes on which the licence plate's light support was moving and IT'S ABSOLUTELY NORMAL. On my french bike, it's the only bulb light, so by making it rigid... it will get broken quicker and I don't carry a bulb light and don't want to. So it moves from factory on purpose.

    I'm going to change it for a 3 or 4 leds light (embedded within resin to avoid cms components to get unglued because of the vibrations).
  3. docgonzo

    docgonzo Old Gadfly

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    Tend to agree with you. Showed it to my tech guy at the dealership, who's a biomedical engineer by training, and he thought they probably wanted the vibration, but sourced out a rubber gasket that was too thin. Certainly, you could double up the gasket and maintain the shock absorption. Anyway, I took the tape off. If the thing falls off, it's the dealer's problem!
    p.s., he took pictures and is sending a note off to Honda USA.
  4. ya(x2)

    ya(x2) Long timer

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    Getting caught at border crossing or by police while circulating within my country without a functioning license plate's light costs a good fine so for max 20 bucks for "LED lights", you have a replacement which will last the bike's lifetime. It's just 2 wires very accessible to connect... easy.
    Honda has been cheap... why choose led blinkers (when regulation makes it possible) and a bulb for the licence plate... I don't f...#@ know! Cost reduction ? Maybe...
  5. FTWeather

    FTWeather KISS army 1976

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    Hey Guys,

    I remember somebody mentioning how tight the factory oil filter was screwed on...

    I noticed that also...so...
    I put about 4k miles on a long trip last 10 days or so and had a leak around oil filter. ....(some leaked out and made its way to the back brake in the rain and almost made the brake non existent!!! that's another story though!!)

    first I thought it was the filter as it had a flat rubber seal instead of a round O ring type, so I changed to a hi flo 204 with the O ring type. still had a small leak. when I changed oil again I noticed the surface of the motor where the oil filter connects had some of the factory coating(?) wearing off and a groove you can feel AND scratch off with your fingernail...see pic...

    do you think this would cause the leak or maybe i was paranoid and overtightened the 2nd time?
    can you over tighten? I tried the usual "hand tight then add another half turn, then ride and then a bit more" ...on a couple other bikes I just tighten filter till it stops against surface. no problems ever.

    not sure now how much to tighten the AT filter? don't know how to check torque with a strap wrench, etc.? (30nm spec?)

    any thoughts? would this be something I could lightly sand off and make smooth or not a good idea? could the factory filter be attached so tight it bonded with the coating and got pulled off at first oil change? any thought appreciated. thanks


    oh ya, can I use brake cleaner to clean rotor and pads? the brakes are better but still slipping more than usual.

    Attached Files:

  6. Griff2

    Griff2 Griff

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    There is a clear path visible through the paint in the lower right of the pic. One problem with You scraping the paint off the surface is getting some of the dust where it shouldn't be. That mating surface really should not have paint on it. As the filter is mild steel and the boss that it screws on to is also steel, I think there is little likelihood of overtightening and damaging threads. The only problem that I could foresee is not being able to undo the Filter. I would tighten somewhat more than you are doing currently, using a bit of common sense as to what is too tight. I usually also tighten until I feel the filter body making contact with the crankcase, and then stop. I have recently done just that with my AT.
  7. FTWeather

    FTWeather KISS army 1976

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    thanks grump,
    yes, I wondered if the factory over tightened the filter so far that the steel on the filter case scratched into the coated surface?
    it was like that after I removed factory filter and maybe when I put on the next filter it didn't mate toa smooth surface?
    my pther question is also should that surface be coated/painted? it is not on a couple other bikes i have, just shiny smooth casing, no sparkly coating?
  8. docgonzo

    docgonzo Old Gadfly

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    Ran my KTM RC8 for 8 years without rear turn signals or a license plate light. Removed the entire ugly rear tripod. Never was stopped about the license plate under the rear seat. But didn't ride it around much at night. LEDs sound good. My electrical tape fix much simpler, though. :-)
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  9. toy4fun

    toy4fun GET out of the way

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    Try washing the bitch.....get a air compressor to dry it.
  10. ya(x2)

    ya(x2) Long timer

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    Don't forget that... you took the tape off! ;-)
  11. MotoWhaler

    MotoWhaler Adventurer

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    Couple of interesting indicator events today. Two separate events.

    1.) Riding along...needed to turn around in a tight spot...when onto grass and turned back onto road. Torque light and abs light flashing. They did not go off while riding above 6 MPH...restarted bike and indicators went off and stayed off for remainder of ride.

    2.) Pulled out of parking lot. ABS indicator starts flashing. Ride home indicator never resets.

    Anyone else experienced any of this? Manual says..indicators may come on if the rear wheel comes off ground...it did not. But the manual also says if these indicators are on you may have a "serious problem". Bike has 90 miles and had 1 mile on it when I took delivery...never was test ridden. Thoughts?
  12. twinrider

    twinrider Pass the catnip

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    I'd have the dealer scan for errors.
  13. Sock Monkey

    Sock Monkey 99% bullshitter...the other 1% is just lies

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    Mating surfaces should be clean and devoid of anything, including paint. It looks like yours has maybe a sealer over it vs. paint (almost like a clearcoat)? In any case, it should not be enough to cause a leak. The gasket (flat or O-ring) will conform to small irregularities just fine, but if you over-tighten the filter, you smash the gasket and make it far less effective. You really don't want to crank down so hard on the filter that the base of filter is contacting the mating surface on the engine. If you do, you've crushed the gasket so it can't seal properly.

    Unless the filter or engine sump is damaged, spinning a new filter on should be pretty simple. Put a dab of oil on the gasket (this is important!!!!), spin the filter on until the gasket contacts the mating surface on the sump, then give a 1/4 twist. Done. :deal

    -SM
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  14. stou

    stou Been here awhile

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    It look a lot like my GS license light and I never had any problem with it.

    [​IMG]

  15. MotoWhaler

    MotoWhaler Adventurer

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    Yup, have a definite issues here. Just took the bike out for a ride again. About 15 minutes into it. Torque light and ABS light start flashing and bike starts surging...I assume from torque control kicking in? Something has either come loose or I have a bad sensor or computer. I have only done 90 miles of paved roads thus far. Will call dealer tomorrow. Yippeee! And my wife didn't think I needed two bikes.
  16. twinrider

    twinrider Pass the catnip

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    It must be a bad sensor or something. Sure they can sort it quickly once they pinpoint the source of the problem.
  17. MotoWhaler

    MotoWhaler Adventurer

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    Those codes are stored like cars today; so they can be recalled? Hopefully, I wont have to worry about reproducing it although it seems to happen every ride now so it shouldn't be a problem. ;-)
  18. twinrider

    twinrider Pass the catnip

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    Good, now all the bumps and vibrations can be transmitted directly to the light! What were those stupid Honda engineers thinking when they made it flexible! :rolleyes
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  19. twinrider

    twinrider Pass the catnip

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    Yes, the ECU should store them and the dealer can read them once they plug the computer in.
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  20. ya(x2)

    ya(x2) Long timer

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    If a good soul (with a crystal ball) reading this post can be of any help... good for you, but I would better trust an inspection by Honda and will do it ASAP (in regards of the "serious problem" stated in the manuel which you have mentioned).
    If you don't mind, please keep us posted when the problem would have been solved ; all the best for having this problem sorted quickly.