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Discussion in 'Land of the Rising Sun: ADV Bikes from Japan' started by twinrider, Mar 18, 2016.
That's what they're doing but it's still not fixed after a year of intermittent tries.
Has Tech given you a break down on what has been done? just curious.
Guessing only happening when hot?
Cush drive rubbers is total non-issue.....mines been the same for 1000s of miles
ECU/DCT resets for the first three times. The last time they did that plus gave the bike an overall inspection, valve clearances set, spark plug wires checked (one replaced).
Always happens when it's warmed up, and only stalls when pulling away from a standstill when I start to open the throttle. Sometimes it can happens several times in a week, other times it can be 1,000 km or a lot longer between stalling episodes.
They are persistent with ecu reset. Clearly not problem. Does it restart straight away or need time to sort it self? If taking a while to start again, possibly coil issue. I would check a few connections as well.
I am guessing it runs fine when up and running?
It could be the things I mentioned earlier. If running ok when going, unlikely fuel issue, leads me towards tps or a connection issue.
Tps can be adjusted. I have seen bikes run odd with tps out of adjustment and not throw a code. But if it is failing replacement only option.
Other option is MAP sensor.
Dodgy battery or a parasitic drain. Need to test for both.
Parasitic drain can be hard to track down though if it is the case.
Do you measure low voltage at the battery posts or is it discharged because it won't start the bike? If it is the former then as Motociclo says it is a faulty battery or some parasitic drain. If it is the latter then it's just a matter of loose connections. You will need a simple multimeter anyway, to check the battery voltage (don't rely on the onboard voltmeter as a loose connection will provide a false reading) and to troubleshoot any parasitic drain.
Due to Hazmat regulations, many mfgs have switched to Factory Activated (sealed) batteries. In place of acid pack batteries (sealed after activating). The longer a FA battery sits without a charge . . . the weaker the battery etc.
I have purchased new FA batteries that had set in the warehouse too long and were dead on arrival (not accepting a charge). I prefer acid pack batteries. . . which are more expensive to ship . . . but fresh after activating.
Here is some battery info:
Not a moto problem, but maybe some of those folks that took the OEM tires off and refuse to use them live in the San Fransisco, California area.
We are on a one month plus into a two month trip and the tires I expected to last till I arrived to my daughter's house in the Dallas, Texas area where I have another set waiting, looks like they aren't going to last that long! We are currently in the San Francisco, California area and looking for tires. Ideally, I want Shinko 705s, 90/90-21 and 150/70-18 tubeless. Continental TKC70s or the OEM tires for the African Twin will work as well. For the record, at 8,453 miles, the rear TKC70 has little life left and the front is badly cupped. The rear has not seemed to show any wear in the last 500 to 600 miles, but I still have 2,000 miles to go! The OEM tires were replaced at 10,297 miles and had at least another 500 miles in them, which is why I expected the TKC70 to last till Texas.
Are you coming through southern California?
I have a set of low mileage OEM's you can have.
My bike will not start. I turn the key to the on position, everything lights up like normal. No indication that it is low on battery but then when I press the start button it just clicks repeatedly. Its like something is preventing it from starting. I disconnected the positive terminal on the battery to reset the ECU but that did not fix it either.
What is battery voltage? Just sounds like flat battery. Generally no indication battery is flat until you try to start. The dash read out probably only uses 5 volts to light up, unless battery is a rock, it will likely still run through start cycle.
If not that, check connections from battery through to solenoid to starter. Voltage drop test these things will show up problem. Check earth circuit also.
Sometimes solenoids go bad, but rarely.
My bike had a similar issue.
Sometimes I would get a sluggish turnover when starting or instrument display would flicker while riding.
Found that one of the battery terminals had buggered threads.
although the connector bolt felt tight, I noticed I could move the cable and cause the lights to flicker.
Ran a tap through the terminal and was able to properly tighten cable. problem solved.
Wasn't sure if it was faulty since new or since I installed battery tender leads.
Clean and tighten battery connections, including where the negative terminal goes to frame ground.
I have same problem
How did you fix this problem ?
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Yes should be straight but they tend to bend.
Ive got issues now with the starterbutton, starter disangages while I keept the starterbutton pressed. Happend twice today.
And de set button appeared to be sticky once.
Oh yeah and the spokes offcourse
2017 model. Not very happy with the bike atm.
I’ve had that all changed on my 2016 model.
Honda are useless at sorting out issues.
Same issues on 2017 models
Guys, is this normal? Could this be the reason my battery is not starting my bike? I watched the voltage on the battery go from 12.8v to 8v in a minute with the headlights on.
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Could be. If the plates bend/distort on the inside of the battery, the battery has an internal short. If memory servers correctly, most batteries have 6 cells of 2V each. If 2 cells short out, you are immediatly down 4V
So far, I see no evidence they even try.