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Discussion in 'Japanese polycylindered adventure bikes' started by twinrider, Mar 18, 2016.
cuz oem front has a rubber dampener. after market does not, hence the noise.
JT sprockets offers a rubber damper style front sprocket:
JTF1370RB = oem style rubber damper, 15t or 16t
JTF1370 = no rubber
~$21 for the rubber one, $19 for the standard one on Amazon
there's a rubber there? I think my oem used sprocket is on the bench...will look see.
Have a buddy on the road with an 18 ATA and he is having hesitation/stalling problems. Acts like fuel starvation, or? He can run 100 to 120 miles and all is fine, then it starts bucking and hesitating. If he stops, turns off the bike and then restarts, it is fine again for a while. Gas has been drained and refilled, with Heet, battery terminals checked and tight. It sounds like the tank is not venting properly and I have asked him to check the hoses next to the left foot peg to see if the vent was pinched during an oil change. He has around 12K miles and never a problem until now. Any other ideas? I'm on line this evening and maybe tomorrow before leaving town so if anyone has any magic, dish is fast!
Lots of posts in the ATAS of this exact issue. Basically lots of gunk in the tank is fouling the fuel pump. Quick fix is to clean out tank and pump filter. Long term is major clean/replacement of possibly tank but certainly pump. Some have had success with getting it covered under warranty.
That is what it sounds like. I've suggested getting it to a dealer if he can find one who will work him in. He is in Estes Park, CO now.
Have him call Interstate honda in Fort collins. It is just down the hill from him about 40 miles and the closest dealer I believe. 970-493-8881
If needed he can ask for Greg he is the general manager and a good guy. Im sure they will help him out and may go get his bke if needed.
NOT a brilliant reply to anything...just a whining gripe about maybe things in general that happen to apply to, at least, my '17 AT:
Went to do a bit of handlebar adjustment today. A Milwaukee M18 impact didn't touch the 6mm-headed allens. The drive socket got hot enough to burn skin, but the fastener didn't budge. All of that on a 5mm diameter fastener? What on earth for?
It took a 16" breaker bar to get them loose. Again...what on earth for?
Handlebars are not an engine critical component. On dirt bikes, I've always preferred a bar that would move in a crash over one torqued to oblivion to hold fast, to end up maybe bent/ruined when a bit of give would save the component.
Why use a 'permanent' type thread locker (if that's the problem) or create a dissimilar metal corrosion (if that's the problem) that results in the requirement of using a huge breaker bar to undo a puny <1/4" fastener?
Every fastener I've dealt with on the AT is ridiculously stuck. Seems to be an intentional design/effect than an accidental one-off occurrence.
Surely, Honda can do better.
I had no problem taking mine off to add risers. Maybe someone at the factory with a pneumatic wrench had a case of the Mondays.
I have the same issue but no centerstand
Won't Start - [another] Starter/Kill Switch Issue
At almost exactly 10,000 miles, my 2016 manual finally refused to start (making lots of noises and flashing lots of dash warnings -ABS fail being the most prominent) after sitting for a couple of days since I rode home one night in a "tropical-like" thunderstorm.
Prior to this I had encountered a couple of times the switch did nothing when pressed but turning off the ignition and rocking the switch a couple of times would get it to work. This happened maybe 3 times previously, not lately and seemingly randomly.
My prior "fix" routine didn't get the bike started this time and alternating squirts of WD-40 and contact cleaner didn't help - so time for the switch disassembly as others have done.
I couldn't get good access to the screws on the fwd side of the handlebar switch housing so I had to loosen the 8mm brake cylinder bolts and slide the assembly inward (after unclipping the handguard end) to get some space for access to the switch/throttle housing screws.
I used a #2 JIS bit (my #2 phillips didn't get a good bite) to remove the switch/throttle housing screws then pulled the rider side half of the housing off.
I used a #1 bit to remove the 2 screws holding the switch in place.
After maneuvering the switch out of the housing I pulled the rocker spring off.
Prying up the 2 clips on the switch body opened up the switch and the rotating and fixed contacts had buildup deposits on them.
I used a strip of fine grit emery cloth over a pencil eraser and more contact cleaner to clean up the contacts, applied some dielectric grease, reassembled the switch, got the rocker spring installed, then packed the switch with more dielectric grease before I assembled it back into the housing with the #1 screws.
Reassembled the housing (shop manual says upper then lower and torque 2.5 N-m / 1.8 lb-ft) with the #2 JIS bit for the screws, slid the brake cylinder back into place and tightened the 2 bolts (shop manual says upper then lower and torque to 9.8 N-m / 7.2 lb-ft)
Started right up.
Thanks to those who came before and posted.
wondering if someone could lend a hand.
so my rear rotor/brake is getting warm to the touch as i ride. like if i ride like 10-15 mins highway, never touch the rear brake, use engine braking to come to a stop and the rear rotor is warm, like i can hold my hand on the rotor warm but not so hot as to be forced to let go. front brakes are cold to the touch. if i ride for 2hrs+ the rear rotor is the same temp.
ive already disassemble the entire rear brake, nothing is binding, pins are/were greased, pins slide/slid freely, pads are worn evenly, shims are fine, and the sliders are clean. i also checked the rear brake lever, returns smoothly and effectively, no binding.
any one care to do a quick 10-15 mins ride for me and not use the rear brake, and see if theirs gets warm too?
at this point i think its just suppose to be that way from factory as i noticed with the bike jacked up the front brake make a "shwish shwish" sound as all brake rotors do, while the rear brake makes the same noise, it does sound allittle bit louder but not by much.
both front and rear wheels spin freely and if turned by hand come to a stop at nearly the same time.
Check out Best Rest Products for his Twin. Still advise thorough tank cleaning and pump filter/housing cleaning (YouTube).
Lots of conversation on the ATAS thread very recently too.
Hope this helps.
Looking for solutions:
I have a 16 Manual AT with 12K on the clock. When starting, I have to crack the throttle to keep the bike running 30% of the time. And then the RPM's fluctuate at idle. Otherwise it will die once I take my thumb off the start switch. Sometimes it starts fine, it seems completely random.
It's also shown signs of hesitation cruising down the down which is extremely disconcerting. It's hasn't ever died or stalled on me but perhaps that's a matter of time. I'm the second owner of this bike ( purchased 2 months ago ) and purchased because of non-stop reliability issues with KTM 950/990's. In the 2,000 miles I've put on since picking it up and the hesitation issue has reared it's head only 2X and briefly.
I'd like to hear your thoughts.
Damn near sounds like the same issue the ATAS are dealing with. Fuel pump screen inside the tank. It is very possible.
I have an Adventure Sports and apparently Honda did a crappy job cleaning the tanks on these. Guys, including myself, are dealing with having to pull the tank and do a thorough cleaning and some of us are upgrading to the Best Rest fuel pump screens and sock. It sounds like this problem of dirty tanks has been isolated to the ATAS..........but..........if the standard AT runs the same or similar fuel pump/screen, these can really be susceptible to any dirty fuel.
Good luck to ya, I'm dealing with mine this week.
Check the 3 airbox oil drain tubes....
When they have too much oil in them the vapor is sucked into the intake and gets on the MAF sensor causing a low air flow reading. Results in hard starting and stalling.
might i suggest doing this: since only the one (out of the 3) oil lines/plugs gets oil in it and should be drained regularly. like every 300km's and the longer tube means you can go alot longer without risking damage. have it tucked away under the engine between the skid plate.
why it did not come from factory like this i donno, guess im a genius or something or just lazy? haha
You can drain the oil tubes off airbox, won't make a difference to how bike runs.
The oil vapour gets drawn into engine anyway. Doesn't affect sensor. AT uses MAP sensor to measure air flow.
The left rear one is only one i have ever needed to drain. I only do it on service, every 5k km. Maybe 10ml's comes out, certainly no where near enough to cause issues.
That would be in the litres, in which case, you would have other issues.
The start switch is a known issue for hard start. Easily fixed. Clean contacts in stsrt switch.
As for surging, sounds more like fuel issue.
Could be a few things, blockage in breather, fuel filter.
There have been the odd AT that have had coolant temp sensor changed out from causing odd running condition.
Try start switch cleaning first, and then see how things go.
If it is intermittant, problem will be hard to trace.
The amount of oil that comes out is highly dependant on rpm and load. Some have reported minimal oil out of the tube. While others tons. That tube in my photo would fill to the top if i ran 5k without draining it.
Im also using the recomended 10w30 as per manual. If one were to use 10w40 the thicker oil would result in less vapor and alot less oil in the tube.
Also. Important to point out, even if the tube gets full it would not cause any real damage to the engine as engines are desgined to burn oil vapor. But the catalytic converter might fail prematurely. Also, carbon build up might cause its own issues if too much oil gets burnt up.