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Discussion in 'Japanese polycylindered adventure bikes' started by twinrider, Mar 18, 2016.
since I don't flip the AT regularly...I'm more after brightness. But good to know!
The OEMs are great when it comes to brightness. They just need flexible stalks.
Yep. the CRF450L are very bright and really flexible. not sure if I'd want to spend $400 USD on a set of turnsignals though...
Chinese version of the stock LED
I really want to see if I could cleanly and effectively graft the stock front signals onto the Tuff Lights stalks. I've unfortunately already discovered that if you smash the front OEM ones, it breaks all kinds of other bits of front trim plastic
That's the problem. The turn signal itself is fine. Probably best to relocate them to the fairing using flush mounts.
I wouldn't go that route. Then you have to cover one hole, and make another in the plastics...
I did think about glue on LED strips, and putting them on the bars. I've done something similar with my xt1200 hand guards, but the plastic faded quickly, and the light was dimmer still.
The Chinese bendy ones are decent. Might give those a go. In case of a bad drop, they will simply bend out of the way..will see this winter when I get into it.
that's the 2018 ones, and they are solid, as @Nihon Newbie said, its a knock on effect to the rest of the fairing, and they ain't cheap either, and don't have the running light option.
I think the below will work on two wire t.signals, and still retain the running light option..the coil on the relay may even slow down the LED as it has some resistance to it...will report back in the depth of winter!
View attachment 1864299
I'm now a member of the failed wheel bearing club. The rear ate itself at 16,000 miles. Almost all offload is dirt with only 1 water crossing that could have soaked the bearings. But, that was 10,000 miles ago. I do ride in the rain, though. If anything caused the failure, it would be possible overtorquing of the axle nut? Why is the AT particularly susceptible to bearing failure when it's a common PN use for a common application?
There were no warning signs before failure. No strange noises or typical bearing growl. All was fine one minute and the next it felt like I had an unbalanced tire and the entire bike was wobbling. A roadside check revealed very moderate axial play. But, the rough road feel and cyclicle bump that felt like a stone stuck in the tread was the bearing grinding itself apart.
Which bearing? there are three. Changing tyres soon and I want to double check the suspect one.
Rear bearing on the right side of the bike. Bearings are cheap enough to where I'd replace all of the wheel bearings.
question, on your last tire change, were the wheel spacers put back in the same spot? I think the Honda manual has them backwards.
16k miles is not a lot. I'm at the same point. I'm almost tempted to pull the bearings over the winter, and put in new ones...cheap insurance
I just put my wheel back in after having off for two weeks. I followed the manual. Which side does the cowboy hat one go on?
Sprocket side, with flange against swing arm.
Thanks! one more thing to do tonight. maybe the battery dying when it did was a blessing in disguise otherwise I would have gone out and ridden like that. New lithium battery got delivered today while I was at work.
DOES THE MANUAL HAVE ANY OTHER MISTAKES THAT ANYONE KNOWS ABOUT?
I know the owners manual had a bunch of retarded typos like maintenance intervals etc.
Honda sent out replacement manuals. Now...I wish they would send out replacement suspension..that works
Fork cap installation on to damper rod. If you follow manual, you only end up with 1.5 turns of rebound adjustment.
To set rebound needle, screw all the way out, then screw in about 3.5 turns.
Screw fork cap on gently until you feel needle just seat.
Hold fork cap and nip up the lock nut. Recheck to see if you have the approx 3.5 turns in the rebound adjuster.
i bought the shop manual on ebay in 3ring binder form
I didn't know it would work installed backwards...
I wouldn't know. Haven't tried.
Have read here plenty of times, folks that have re installed it with flange to sprocket, as it is printed in manual.
W/S manual is your bikes bible, but people should take note how things come apart.