The CRF1000L Africa Twin problem thread

Discussion in 'Japanese polycylindered adventure bikes' started by twinrider, Mar 18, 2016.

  1. Greg the pole

    Greg the pole There are no stupid questions, only stupid people

    Joined:
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    1,803
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    Calgary, AB
    The popping is normal to the AT. My staintune slip on pops, with the OEM headers.
    I believe the AT has air injection, and that's what causes it. @Motociclo can confirm.

    Mine sounds about the same. With the baffle out, it's a touch too loud, but with the baffle in it sounds like a gopher farting through a pvc pipe.
    It's substantially lighter, and it was on the shelf, so cost me $50 to get the welding done for it, and never needs repacking. Win win.

    I don't know about their claim for no re-tuning. I'm running a pcv and it works well. I think it's a must for a full system.
    MiamiMotorcyclist and DCTFAN like this.
  2. Motociclo

    Motociclo Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    May 18, 2017
    Oddometer:
    944
    Popping is just fuel lighting off in exhaust.
    Air injection puts air in exhaust, mixes with any fuel present and lights it off. Emissions thing ti stop fuel screwing cat converter.
    It isn't really injection, air is sucked in.
    High speed, hot gas draws the air into exhaust. Venturi effect.
    DCTFAN likes this.
  3. DCTFAN

    DCTFAN VIN# JH2SD0451GK000002 '16 CRF1000LD

    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2016
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    1,693
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    Confirmed and agree.
    Just came back from a twisty ride and "like a gopher farting through a pvc pipe" mixed with all the popping sound will get old real fast.
    I just know I am going back to the OE slip-on but leave the cat-free piping.
    Don't think I can tell the weight loss contributing much to the ride.

    PS> put the carbon finish muffler up 4sale in Fleamarket $120 shipped
  4. Dillo

    Dillo Almost Awesome

    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2014
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    Massachusetts
    Mine does the same thing. I did the starter switch fix but that didn't resolve the issue. Anybody figured it out yet? My only guess so far is piston slap (Link)
  5. swimmer

    swimmer armchair asshole

    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2007
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    Tucson, AZ
    My '18 will sometimes have one or two stumbles within the first minute after a cold start. They are very short, like one cylinder misfire, and not something I think would cause a stall. The bike has about 1500 miles on it.
  6. Motociclo

    Motociclo Been here awhile Supporter

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    May 18, 2017
    Oddometer:
    944
    Unlikely to be piston slap.
    These things run pretty lean. May just be on the too lean side for start up.
    I find only real time now, if going to stumble and stall, is if i haven't riden for a couple of weeks. Maybe a start and stall, then next fire, idling ok.
  7. Junglejeff1

    Junglejeff1 Long timer

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    Oct 20, 2016
    Oddometer:
    3,865
    Location:
    Upper Michigan
    Mine has always stumbled when cold cleans up pretty quick after it hits 1 bar on heat gauge. Today wifey and me were hitting a back road we like I was thinking how much I like the g2 throttle grip I put on because of the low end lean condition.Thing really helps when running on the low end torque.
    Gemel likes this.
  8. Motociclo

    Motociclo Been here awhile Supporter

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    Oddometer:
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    Never used a G2. No doubt good in tight slow work.
    A cough and a fart when cold no biggy.
    Junglejeff1 likes this.
  9. Amphib

    Amphib A mind is like a parachute....

    Joined:
    Sep 19, 2018
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    Location:
    Wnc
    I think that would be highly unlikely. It's just something I noticed on mine... Same experience as Jeff and motociclo. If that's all yours is doing, I wouldn't worry about it at all.
  10. twinrider

    twinrider Pass the catnip

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    Aug 20, 2002
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    Location:
    日本
    Mine ran better once I installed the booster plug.
  11. Junglejeff1

    Junglejeff1 Long timer

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    Upper Michigan
    Mine still hick ups a bit when cold even with plug.It does run better with booster plug.
  12. mb300

    mb300 Been here awhile

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    Feb 7, 2011
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    AZ and CA
    You're a lot better at tire swaps than I'll ever be.


    I'm not the original poster, but yes way too much. Yooper genetics dontcha know.




    Tire on the rim (but I already broke the bead) at 5:33pm and 56 seconds:

    IMG_20190918_173356.jpg


    5:36.13- Old tire off in 2 minutes and 17 seconds:

    IMG_20190918_173613.jpg


    5:40.33s - New tire on ready for air 4 minutes 20 seconds later (that 705 is a surprisingly stiff tire):

    IMG_20190918_174033.jpg


    Total time: 6 minutes 37 seconds of actual work + 2 beers + surfing ADVrider instead of balancing the assembly = about 2 hours or so....

    :photog
  13. swimmer

    swimmer armchair asshole

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    Tucson, AZ
    That's a hell of a lot faster than I can do it.
  14. leethal

    leethal 3 wheel Monarch #37

    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2008
    Oddometer:
    382
    Location:
    Mornington peninsula, Melbourne
    .........and a lot more rim damage than when I do it !
    Drum Dog and mb300 like this.
  15. HerrDeacon

    HerrDeacon Been here awhile

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    Oct 15, 2013
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    198
    Have to ask, what's up with all the weights on the rim/spokes?
  16. Damian_74

    Damian_74 Been here awhile

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    More to the point - why have weights opposite each other!
  17. mb300

    mb300 Been here awhile

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    You should see the rest of the bike....
    gve.mcmlxxiv and DCTFAN like this.
  18. mb300

    mb300 Been here awhile

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    Believe it or not there is a method to the madness.

    I swap tires often. Really often:

    IMG_20190920_172202.jpg


    I have a "primary" set of tires, the Conti Attack Trails. If there are a lot of twisty roads and no sand then I'll be on those tires.

    I have the wheels perfectly balanced with that particular set of tires. Those weights never come off the wheel.

    Let's say I'm going somewhere with a bit more offroad so I'll spoon on some shinko 804/805s. I'll rebalance the assemblies ONLY ADDING WEIGHT, so sometimes I'll end up with new weights opposite of other exisiting weights.

    The new weights that I add get marked with an "805" on them, and the spot on the wheel gets marked too with how much weight I added.

    Offroad trip over, I'm going to be riding back and forth to work, so I'll spoon the Contis back on (carefully lining up the stem valve stem with the mark I put on the tire). Only takes 30-40 minutes or so to do the tire swap, and then I peel off the weights marked "805" and voila the wheel is ready to go, it doesn't need to be re-balanced.


    Sometimes I get punctures.... OK I get a lot of punctures:


    46501302_10156840100214850_856365716603928576_n.jpg

    46520262_10156840099869850_4523211564735528960_n.jpg

    IMG_20181121_110429.jpg

    IMG_20181120_202514.jpg

    IMG_20181215_130238.jpg

    This one took 2 ropes to plug the hole, then another 2 ropes thru the inside loop to keep it from pushing out.

    It also shook so bad that I had to add ~40grams of weight to counter the vibe. And by weight I mean rocks.

    You can balance on the road by pushing the brake pads back and dropping the chain off the sprocket (rear) or popping the calipers off (front) and then duct taping flat stones to the rim as needed. It works in a pinch.
  19. IndiBiker

    IndiBiker Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2012
    Oddometer:
    394
    Location:
    Atlanta, GA
    Have ridden the bike for only 2000 miles but finally getting the chance to ride everyday - commuting.

    But I notice now that shifting up from 1 to 2 seems clunky. Same goes for 2 to 3. After that, it all seems ok. Am I not shifting at the right RPMs?

    I've owned CBRs and their gear shifting has always been butter smooth. This machine is clunky when shifting. Help!
  20. mb300

    mb300 Been here awhile

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    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    AZ and CA

    Mine was a bit clunky too (with the occasional false neutral between 4th and 5th) but it has improved significantly with mileage. It's no supersport bike, but I can't remember the last time I had a false neutral.