The CRF1000L Africa Twin problem thread

Discussion in 'Japanese polycylindered adventure bikes' started by twinrider, Mar 18, 2016.

  1. twinrider

    twinrider Pass the catnip

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    Idle control valve, happened to my DCT too.
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  2. William Wolfen

    William Wolfen DR Guy

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    This start switch thing. What years are affected? First I've heard of it.
  3. cblais19

    cblais19 Long timer

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    16-17, 18+ have a redesigned switch cluster.
  4. Motociclo

    Motociclo Long timer Supporter

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    Mainly 2016 models.
    The contacts in switch appear to loosen a bit.
    Can be stripped down, cleaned up and VERY gently bend contacts to get better contact. I add a little dielectric grease. No serious issues since.
    There was an upgraded switch released late 2017 i believe.
    mcmann likes this.
  5. William Wolfen

    William Wolfen DR Guy

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    Any idea of what VIN number that change was made at? I'd love to know if I need to worry about that or not on my '17. It was a leftover, so I'd imagine a later VIN, but I really don't know.
  6. Motociclo

    Motociclo Long timer Supporter

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    No idea.
    Typical symptom of starter button playing up, will wind over, start, but when button released engine dies.
    Cycle the starter button on/off a few times. Not a fix but would get you out of trouble until pulled apart or replaced.

    If it isn't doing the above. Ride on. No point worrying about it.
  7. Junglejeff1

    Junglejeff1 Long timer

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    That is what I did but will just replace it now since I have to pull tank for valve service.Have to much other shit to deal with and will just throw a new part at it.This virus shit is throwing me a lot of curve balls lately I have to deal with.Stay well over there.
    windowto, Amphib and Nihon Newbie like this.
  8. Junglejeff1

    Junglejeff1 Long timer

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    It will not stop you dead.Just a contact issue. Turn ignition off and flip a few times and bike will be fine.Fix or replace when you have some spare time.Not a huge deal.Mine has been sitting in garage that is heated multiple times a week to work on bikes and pisses weak electric parts off.It is a 2016 that I noticed it before but now sort of a pia so will replace.All bikes have a few wierd issues and the early models have this one.I have had to take my switch gear apart 3 times because I beat the shit out of this bike and the switches went under water.Except for crappy forks a good bike.Rick at cogent had me beta test a mod shock for this bike because I like to push them to the limit. Also Ricks work is awesome. His custum stock body shock works very well.And this is from a guy that has rebuilt and revalved myself since 1996. 20180507_170530.jpg
  9. mcmann

    mcmann Adventure Rider Junkie Supporter

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    718D1BEA-2423-4809-BE9D-5B83F5757AB6.jpeg
  10. DCTFAN

    DCTFAN 2019 CRF1000LD | 2016 CRF1000LD | Supporter

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    my ignition switch is awaiting replacement under warranty-
    With engine running and key in ON position the bike would turn OFF when the key is "jiggled" side-to-side.
    Not sure whether it's bad design or poor contact but we'll see.

    Easy to check if it's a design flaw- check yours!
    Maybe mine is not the only one.
    Part#4 in below diag. is the issue.

    [​IMG]
  11. William Wolfen

    William Wolfen DR Guy

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    Yep, Rick is a miracle worker. He transformed my DR650. Can't wait to get his magic on the Twin.
    Junglejeff1 likes this.
  12. twinrider

    twinrider Pass the catnip

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    Same for my XT250.
  13. NorskieRider

    NorskieRider Long timer

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    I'm guessing we can't just put the 18+ parts on our 16-17's ?
  14. Greg the pole

    Greg the pole There are no stupid questions, only stupid people

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  15. Torque Request

    Torque Request Been here awhile

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    My wind screen brace is extremely loose on one side. Is this repairable or should I bite the bullet and buy the $200 part?


    Screen Shot 2020-04-07 at 5.21.54 PM.png
  16. Junglejeff1

    Junglejeff1 Long timer

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    It can be welded easily. Also you could add some reinforcement at same time. A couple years ago a inmate welded his.I remember because he got a little defensive when I made fun of his welds.
  17. Black99S

    Black99S Been here awhile

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    For $200 I'd buy the part. By the time you disconnect all the electrics so nothing gets fried for a weld-in-situ, or remove the part for a proper weld with reinforcement (careful with clearances for wire harness etc.) you might as well just go for new.
    Then order Camel ADV screen brace https://camel-adv.com/collections/featured-products/products/africa-twin-windscreen-brace.
    They usually fail at base of verticals.
    AT screen brace.jpg
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  18. Torque Request

    Torque Request Been here awhile

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    Thanks for the input guys. I will let you know what I decide to do.
  19. Torque Request

    Torque Request Been here awhile

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    Also do I need to dis-assemble any further than the front cowl/headlight?
  20. SkipD

    SkipD That looks stickey

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    All the front plastics need to come off in front of the tank, if you have been in there a few times already its not such a big deal if its your first time its slow work. Just get lots of small plastic bags and put all clips and bolts with the plastic you have removed, do that for each part. There are two areas that fail, where its marked in the image above in red, sometimes down the bottom by 11 in the image. The decision to buy new verses weld up depends on the cost of welding. Somebody who is good with a TIG torch will make it better than the stock one even without extra plates. Have a good look at all welds to make sure you dant have other fractures. You then have to repaint it as well, thats no big deal . No matter what get an additional brace, Camel is good and made in alloy so very light. When you put it back together make sure you put rubber grease on all the pins (on the plastic panels) that go into rubber locators it makes it a thousand times easyer to take the panels on and off.
    Nihon Newbie likes this.