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Discussion in 'Japanese polycylindered adventure bikes' started by twinrider, Mar 18, 2016.
Idle control valve, happened to my DCT too.
This start switch thing. What years are affected? First I've heard of it.
16-17, 18+ have a redesigned switch cluster.
Mainly 2016 models.
The contacts in switch appear to loosen a bit.
Can be stripped down, cleaned up and VERY gently bend contacts to get better contact. I add a little dielectric grease. No serious issues since.
There was an upgraded switch released late 2017 i believe.
Any idea of what VIN number that change was made at? I'd love to know if I need to worry about that or not on my '17. It was a leftover, so I'd imagine a later VIN, but I really don't know.
Typical symptom of starter button playing up, will wind over, start, but when button released engine dies.
Cycle the starter button on/off a few times. Not a fix but would get you out of trouble until pulled apart or replaced.
If it isn't doing the above. Ride on. No point worrying about it.
That is what I did but will just replace it now since I have to pull tank for valve service.Have to much other shit to deal with and will just throw a new part at it.This virus shit is throwing me a lot of curve balls lately I have to deal with.Stay well over there.
It will not stop you dead.Just a contact issue. Turn ignition off and flip a few times and bike will be fine.Fix or replace when you have some spare time.Not a huge deal.Mine has been sitting in garage that is heated multiple times a week to work on bikes and pisses weak electric parts off.It is a 2016 that I noticed it before but now sort of a pia so will replace.All bikes have a few wierd issues and the early models have this one.I have had to take my switch gear apart 3 times because I beat the shit out of this bike and the switches went under water.Except for crappy forks a good bike.Rick at cogent had me beta test a mod shock for this bike because I like to push them to the limit. Also Ricks work is awesome. His custum stock body shock works very well.And this is from a guy that has rebuilt and revalved myself since 1996.
my ignition switch is awaiting replacement under warranty-
With engine running and key in ON position the bike would turn OFF when the key is "jiggled" side-to-side.
Not sure whether it's bad design or poor contact but we'll see.
Easy to check if it's a design flaw- check yours!
Maybe mine is not the only one.
Part#4 in below diag. is the issue.
Yep, Rick is a miracle worker. He transformed my DR650. Can't wait to get his magic on the Twin.
Same for my XT250.
I'm guessing we can't just put the 18+ parts on our 16-17's ?
posted in owners thread, rear wheel bearing failure
The Africa Twin CRF1000L Owners' Thread
My wind screen brace is extremely loose on one side. Is this repairable or should I bite the bullet and buy the $200 part?
It can be welded easily. Also you could add some reinforcement at same time. A couple years ago a inmate welded his.I remember because he got a little defensive when I made fun of his welds.
For $200 I'd buy the part. By the time you disconnect all the electrics so nothing gets fried for a weld-in-situ, or remove the part for a proper weld with reinforcement (careful with clearances for wire harness etc.) you might as well just go for new.
Then order Camel ADV screen brace https://camel-adv.com/collections/featured-products/products/africa-twin-windscreen-brace.
They usually fail at base of verticals.
Thanks for the input guys. I will let you know what I decide to do.
Also do I need to dis-assemble any further than the front cowl/headlight?
All the front plastics need to come off in front of the tank, if you have been in there a few times already its not such a big deal if its your first time its slow work. Just get lots of small plastic bags and put all clips and bolts with the plastic you have removed, do that for each part. There are two areas that fail, where its marked in the image above in red, sometimes down the bottom by 11 in the image. The decision to buy new verses weld up depends on the cost of welding. Somebody who is good with a TIG torch will make it better than the stock one even without extra plates. Have a good look at all welds to make sure you dant have other fractures. You then have to repaint it as well, thats no big deal . No matter what get an additional brace, Camel is good and made in alloy so very light. When you put it back together make sure you put rubber grease on all the pins (on the plastic panels) that go into rubber locators it makes it a thousand times easyer to take the panels on and off.