The CRF1000L Africa Twin problem thread

Discussion in 'Japanese polycylindered adventure bikes' started by twinrider, Mar 18, 2016.

  1. randingo

    randingo Voted "Class Lounger"

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  2. seancampbell

    seancampbell Long timer

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    Yes, I have a 1 tooth smaller OEM Honda sproket from a CB600 (But I will check which exact model)
  3. CorynStevens

    CorynStevens n00b

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    Hey guys, I had the same issue with my 2018 adv AT and i just wanted to throw out some pics of my Fuel filter/tank after 23k miles on the bike.
    IMG_20200812_113940.jpg IMG_20200812_143619.jpg IMG_20200812_143708.jpg IMG_20200812_145900.jpg
  4. bbanker

    bbanker Been here awhile Supporter

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    So after 22K miles of trouble free bliss, I'm having my first issues with my 2017 manual. A few months ago I started having the hard start issue. Funny it was right after I inquired about preventative maintenance of the kill switch on this thread... Well after dismantling it, cleaning and dielectric greasing everything the issue was still there. I was on my way to a local non-Honda dealership to get my inspection and after the hard start, I noticed some significant surging as I was cornering at low RPM's. So off to the stealership I went. Initially they tried replacing the switch but the problems was still there. The diagnostic computer said there was an issue with the idle air control valve, so they replaced that. Hard start issue is now gone. I had the bike back for a few weeks but the surging around 3K RPM's was still there, and maybe worse. So back to the stealership again (of course the only one I trust is 30 min away in another town.) So after messing around with it they pulled one of the plugs and the porcelain had a crack in it, so they are recommending replacing the plugs as everything else seems to check out, to the tune of $450 US.... Any thoughts from the collective hive mind on this issue?
  5. William Wolfen

    William Wolfen Long timer

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    Replace the plugs yourself for a couple hours work and the cost of the plugs.
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  6. Amphib

    Amphib A mind is like a parachute....

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    I hate that needle in a haystack stuff. You were holding off on the valves correct? I may be wanting to get the tank off and see about the fuel filters. Maybe knock out the whole valve check while you're in there. Plugs will be easier then.
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  7. bbanker

    bbanker Been here awhile Supporter

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    Correct. Bad thing is I don't have a good place to do the work, other than my driveway.
  8. Amphib

    Amphib A mind is like a parachute....

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  9. bbanker

    bbanker Been here awhile Supporter

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    Thanks, appreciate the offer. I'll let ya know.
  10. DCTFAN

    DCTFAN 2019 CRF1000LD | 2016 CRF1000LD | Supporter

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    I recall a similar issue that was resolved by checking the PAIR control solenoid valve.
    It was a simple fix, as the two bolts that hold it had come loose.
    Worth a look.

    upload_2020-8-19_10-53-46.png upload_2020-8-19_10-51-20.png
  11. bbanker

    bbanker Been here awhile Supporter

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    Thanks Mike! Will do!
  12. bbanker

    bbanker Been here awhile Supporter

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    So update. The Honda Dealership in Asheboro replaced the spark plugs to the tune of $400.00. Problem solved. No hesitation. Now I need to get more comfortable taking the fairings and tank off so I can figure out how to check the valves and the spark plugs myself next time. I did decide to go the dealership route in case something was wrong with the fuel pump or throttle bodies, etc that would be covered by warranty. I would have hated to pull all of that stuff off and then put it back on to ride it to the dealership as I don't have a trailer (also something I'm thinking about.) Thinking about it though, for a bike that I've had for 22K trouble free miles until this point, I've only farkled it, ridden the shit out of it and done tires, oil and filters. So I guess in the grand scheme $400 isn't all that bad at this point.
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  13. Jarrett2

    Jarrett2 Been here awhile

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    So after all of these years of Africa Twins out there now, were there really any systemic problems with them?

    Or were they isolated issues or even just user error?
  14. bbanker

    bbanker Been here awhile Supporter

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    As far as I'm aware as a owner of a 2017 manual, the fork issue on the 2016-2019's is a thing, but not a deal breaker for many, the start switch issue is easily fixed as is the GPS bar and the right foot peg on the 2016-2017's. My spark plug and idle air valve issues are isolated I think. The DCT stalling issue is also an intermittent thing, but not widespread. I still love and trust my bike.
  15. cblais19

    cblais19 Long timer

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    Start switch issue is 2016 primarily, and some '17s I think? ATAS seems to have the most widespread serious defect - whichever production run (or all? not sure) with the coating that flakes off the fuel tank inner and clogs the filter.
  16. MikefromNL

    MikefromNL Long timer

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    DCT problem here!

    I have a 2017 DCT with 24k km on it- about to go in for the servicing.
    This weekend I could not get the bike to go into gear.
    From what I've read on other forums about DCT bikes (Mostly the 700s), the bike was revving high- too high for the DCT to let the bike go into gear. My understanding is that the clutch engages at 1450 RPM, so the computer will not let the bike to into gear if the engine is running at above 1450 RPM. (EDIT: It looks like its actually around 1800RPM for switching into gear)
    Then I couldn't switch back into neutral for the same reason. At stoplights, the bike is pulling and I need to clamp down on the brake to stop it from lurching forwards, and I had to give it a little throttle at the same time to prevent it from stalling. I shut the bike down at one traffic light using the kill switch, and when I started it back up, I couldn't get it to go into gear again.
    In the other forums, it sees like most people that had the problem had it go away before the bike got to the dealers and they couldn't replicate it.

    So my questions are:

    1.) Has this happened to your DCT AT?
    2.) What did you do to fix it?
  17. swimmer

    swimmer armchair asshole

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    Very unusual to have a spark plug go bad at such low mileage. Hopefully nothing else was at the root of the problem.
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  18. mentolio

    mentolio King of the island of unwanted toys...

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    Not a DCT owner, but it sounds like an air leak to me. Truthfully I haven’t even had the tank off of my AT, but I would look for a vacuum line to be popped-off or cracked, as that might be just enough air to “hi-idle“ a bit. Could be throttle bodies loose/popped out of the insulators (rubber bits they plug into at the head), or the airbox to have come loose, but probably less likely. Have you recently done any work that required fishing wires through the nest of hoses/wires that lives under the tank? Might’ve pulled something loose? Hope you find the problem!
  19. swimmer

    swimmer armchair asshole

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    I know there were more '16 and' 17 bikes sold than '18 and' 19 but, just from observation from what gets posted on this forum, I don't think the later year AT suffered the same fork problem as the earlier years. I could be totally wrong about this but that is my sense of the situation. Every time I read about a low mileage AT having a leaking fork seal, it's on an earlier model. @neanderthal, have you had a leaking fork seal on either one of your '18 bikes?
  20. cblais19

    cblais19 Long timer

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    The fork issue being remarked on here is the coating wearing / stiction. I believe Honda revised the coating from the factory in 2018+ to reduce the wear, but people who really pound em off road have reported it still.