The CRF1000L Africa Twin problem thread

Did y'all ever solve the front end hopping issue?

If so, what was it?

I think a combination of tires and suspension settings

I didn't fiddle with my suspension yet, but I barely noticed it with the stock tires, noticed it really badly (enough to post) when I switched to E07s and then switched to Trail Attack 3's and barely notice it again. Maybe it is my inconsistent/crappy balance jobs (jack stands and pipe), but sure seems to me like tires are at least a contributing factor.

For anyone following,
Just got my bike back from the dealer. The technician couldn't get the bike to do the high idling that has been causing me grief. He went through all the troubleshooting that I did with the addition of checking the IACV operation. Says everything is perfectly normal. Bike has been perfect for the one day since I got it back. Weird. Hopefully it stays that way.

[QUOTE="MikefromNL, post: Thanks for the video. Exact same symptoms as I'm having. Its a little hard to see exactly what doodad you're turning there.

[/QUOTE]


the little doodad is the lock nut for the idling screw. don't adjust it - just loosen it till the idling drops and re-tighten it again.

the little doodad is the lock nut for the idling screw. don't adjust it - just loosen it till the idling drops and re-tighten it again.
View attachment 2563432 [/QUOTE]

Is seems to me some sensor malfunction. This method is great on the far away road for DCT bike. You lowering idle speed in throttle but not in ECU. Highly likely idle sensor stuck or map sensor malfunction.

If you are just fiddling with the lock nut......you may as well just whistle......Maybe, just maybe, you are actually moving the throttle shaft slightly and allowing the butterfly to seat properly at its idle position.

There is something strange going on. You can use the method Squily highlights above to get rid of high idle, works every time but you can also adjust the the Throttle Position Sensor at the other end of the shaft (it has two adjustment screws that Honda says not to play with) to the same effect. Loosen the two screws on the TP sensor rotate slightly and put back to where it was, you can do that while running. Again seems to be a very easy fix that stays fixed. It could be something on the shaft but I dont think so. I have looked at where the shaft is returning too after marking the points on the throttle body on a couple of bikes, shaft seems to be at the same place high idle or not but touching the end stop adjustment or the TP sensor seems to fix. You can rotate the throttle shaft with your fingers open and back to the throttle stop and the high idle is still there, I did notice the throttle cable around the drum seemed to have to much play on those bikes but it did not make any difference once set to spec.

So, what happens if you just push on the end of the throttle shaft ? Throttle shafts have been a source of air leaks since carbies were invented.......but it is usually high mileage wear.
Or, maybe the position sensor has a poor contact spot at closed throttle...if it is a variable resistor type.
This is common stuff on EFI cars. Bike should be no different.

bought a 2017 new from a dealer September 2019. during our utah trip i developed a oil leak on the clutch side i think on the 2 bolts next to each other. has anyone had this issue? i have not gotten a chance to look through all the pages on this thread yet.

I picked up a new '17 last November. I've put over 7200 miles on it and can't say I've ever noticed an oil leaks. I'll check that area and see.

Never a drop of oil missing on my 2017 in 25k km.

It doesn't look like it is coming from either of those two bolts as they would be more dirt encrusted than they are if that was the case. It may be coming from the base of the cylinder (the view is occluded by your pic angle) or it could be coming from the galley plug between those two bolts (where you see the green inspector's mark in my shot):



To identify the real source, thoroughly clean everything with soap/water and/or spray brake cleaner and then dry off with compressed air. Start the engine and let it come up to operating temperature by waiting for the rad fan to come and then shut it off and blow some flour or talcum power onto the area and see where it sticks. That is your leak.

If it is coming from that galley plug, you might sacrifice a hex key by cutting off enough from the short end to snake it in there and see if it'll tighten up a bit and put a bit more crush on that washer ...

Good diagnostics to ya!

Oil leaks are not typical on our machines. There are catch-hoses off the airbox ... I guess if they get clogged then excess oil could drain out of the airbox?

If you really can't figure out where it's from then a UV oil dye might help.

I will be trying this. Thank you.

Y'all must have DCT bikes. My side case doesn't look like that. I have no oil leak in that area either.

I'm currently having tha africa twin fuel starvation problem. Typically it goes away after a couple of miles and were good to go. Well this time no dice.

So here's my question to you all do I order the full fuel pump or just the filter. Next problem is it looks like the pump is basically back ordered 4 to 6 weeks on every site I have checked. Or do I change the spark plugs and see if that fixes the problem.

I'm going to be in avon Indiana within the next 3 days if I can get it that far. Any help or suggestions is appreciated thanks.


Edit:

I doesnt do the fuel thingy under 4k rpms. But as we all know that doesn't get the bike going over 65 so now I'm leaning towards spark plugs. I think.

Are you sure it's a fuel problem?

In my opinion yes. Its starved at high rpms, runs fine at lower rpms.

I did check to make sure the chain was tensioned correctly and checked both sprockets. In addition I did make sure I had enough oil in the bike and I have about 5k on the oil.

With that being said i made the decision to buy the whole fuel pump and spark plugs. Also getting my spare new air filters shipped out to me since I will now have a week to two weeks to kill. Going to do brakes front and rear and an oil change.

Sorry I stumbled across this a little late. Hopefully I caught you in time. Since your pulling and replacing the fuel pump, definitely order this fuel pump sock up and install on your new pump:

https://bestrestproducts.com/shop/g...a-twin-pre-pump-fuel-filter-guglatech-mfpmha/

The factory fuel filter is ridiculously small and doesn't stand a chance against any dirty fuel. This sock will increase your filter media 10-fold.

Cheers