The CRF1000L Africa Twin problem thread

Did you ever take the bike to a dealer and if so were any of their techs able to take the bike for a spin or otherwise offer any suggestion on what the issue might be?

Bike went to the dealer no codes and they couldn't repeat what is happening to me. And they kinda agreed that those parts would fix the problem.

Has any dealer in history ever been able to replicate a problem while testing it? Happens every time- so frustrating.

I had the same situation with my idling problem. I had to tow the bike to the dealer because it was impossible to get into gear. Dealer gets the bike and it's perfect.

You ought to be the tech trying to explain to the Service Manager / Service Writer, that you can't find anything. That is frustrating, stressful and pressured.

I'm not mad or surprised. My guess is the guy wasn't willing to hammer on a costumers bike. Which I understand. But it sounds like I'm just going to ride it mainly on backroads because it never happens at slow speeds. Gona add more riding time per day or location but it is what it is till I can get it home and pull it apart.

Well I am back on the road. Made it to Nashville since I can get a cheap hotel to wait out the storm.

Bike is still doing its bull shit. Yesterday was pretty good at high way speeds. Today I did back road from Lexington Kentucky to Nashville. Started out good. Then when I started to encounter hills it would do it sputter thing. In any gear and any rpm. Pulled into a gas station and vented the cap. This has worked before I dont know why it works but it works. Anyways vented the cap and the last 70ish miles of the day bike ran like a fucking champ.


The bike gets one more shitty day and I head home.

Has the fuel tank on this bike ever been raised or removed prior to you having these problems?

Yes to have the valves done. About 21k ago. Bit it was also off to do the the fuel pump and spark plugs and stuff.

Sounds like vent hose is kinked / pinched or plugged.
Check end by left footpeg. All vent tubes should be cut at 45 deg angle to stop water plugging. Make sure not folded and trapped under bash plate.
Check gas cap. Small screw retains plunger spring and rubber seat for vent. Also clean rubber teat from vent line that contacts gas cap. With gas cap open you should be able to blow into large tube by footpeg and have free airflow.
All above for bike without California charcoal canister.
If with Charcoal can, check it is not flooded with gas. Can happen with tip over. If flooded tank venting is problematic.

It is a California bike ill check all of those out tomorrow. Thank you.

My error. Large vent tube by footpeg is the drain hose from gas cap area that drains water and gas fill overflow.
Easier to put short hose on rubber teat contacting gas cap by hinge and blow down to ensure free flow. Works on non-canister bike. I think this is plumbed to charcoal canister on CA bikes.
If your bike runs ok after opening gas cap then venting is at issue. If no tank bag try leaving the gas cap key cover up. It has a gasket around key. May let air in.
Question - do your symptoms change if tank is full or near empty?
Empty tank takes longer to create vacuum if not venting.

smitty. have a great ride home. glad to hear the issue went away, hope permanently. always good to see the AT community is very supportive.

I do have a tank bag. But it looks like I can put something under it to try and get it up high enough so the flap is open I can try that.

It happens mostly when I'm below 1/2 a tank but does and has happened before on a full tank. Im gona try to blow or clear the vent tube today. Just need to wait for it to stop raining long enough to do so.

Thanks Joel im going to try to still take my time getting home dodging storms and ice should be fun. And I agree the AT community is rad. Also has answers right away. So thank you everyone.

The reason I ask is because, like has been now suggested, maybe a venting issue. I posted the below about an experience I had, which I am assuming was self inflicted but haven't bothered to look into because of the rarity of occurrences.

Thats pretty much exactly how it happened the very first time a year ago. I went from 5000 down to sea level pretty damn quickly well within 100 miles. But then when away after I turned the bike off and vented the tank.

Yesterday I dont think is was gaining or loosing that much maybe 1000ft max. But I'm leaning towards a venting issue. I haven't bein able to try to clear the lines yet today since my bike is out side and its raining.

I just don't know how I'm gona blow air into the vent line. I dont have a compressor. I carry c02 for tire fill ups and flats. I could try to use my c02 to clear the line. Or I have bailing wire and was considering trying to fish it threw the vent tube.

Don’t use any compressed air. I use a piece of fuel siphon hose and blow by mouth. One of the hoses by footpeg is coolant tank overflow - don’t want to blow back up that one with pressure by mistake.

Non canister bikes the vent plumbing is straight forward. Can’t find a diagram of the canister bike vent plumbing. anyone?

Good call i should be able to try that tomorrow. I also can't find a diagram and the routing of the tank to canister all I can find is exploded views of the parts. But now that I know venting helps ill just stop every 50 to 100 miles and vent it .

Best I can find is this parts fiche
I think #7 is the hose connected to the tank - rubber teat - gas cap. #6 connects the vent to Charcoal canister #8. #10 should be the drain hose by left footpeg. #3 is the connection to solenoid valve #12 which opens to pull the gas vapour back into the engine intake.
Cannister is under the seat under the plastic behind the seat key.

https://www.bike-parts-honda.ca/hon...7/CRF1000AH/Frame/CANISTER/92180/F_21/2/29501