The CRF1000L Africa Twin problem thread

So the chain was making a little noise when I turned the rear wheel by hand. I pulled the cover off the engine sprocket and found rust that did not make me happy. No grease and the sprocket was not clamped tight. Even though the bolt was tight the sprocket could float around on the shaft and there was some play on the splines. Interestingly both sprockets show wear on the inside(engine side) with shiny teeth. The spline wear was mostly on the sprocket, probably 90%, so that is good news. The new sprocket is snug on the splines. Everything cleaned and greased. I made a very thin spacer so the bolt and washer really clamp the sprocket in place. I suspect the left side chain adjuster was a couple mm farther forward causing the one sided shine on the sprockets. Front sprocket had 27,000 miles on it. Chain has 18,000 miles on it and shows about 1-1.5mm wear over 12" of length and has only needed adjustment once. I'll add check the front sprocket lube to my to-do list at tire changes.

Front sprocket is intended to float.
Use moly PASTE on the splines.
Proper alignment and I had same inside wear pattern on sprockets.

I’d suggest a chain alignment tool like the one Motion Pro offers (I use that). Sadly we can’t trust the chain adjusters and their marks anymore (if we ever really could), at least not on any newer bikes I’ve owned. My Versys was B-A-D! When I set my wheel using only the adjusters and their marks, my AT wheel is a little off. I feel using the tool allows me to get the wheel set quite a bit more square.

Just to clarify, my Honda shop replaced the shift motor and linkage on my 16. After I got it back, a couple of times it refused to upshift after starting the bike, but the transmission worked normally again once I restarted the bike. This transmission issue wasn't resolved before the shop actually bought the bike back -- not Honda -- after Honda Japan called a separate issue that had been plaguing the bike -- intermittent stalling when accelerating from a stop -- "a big twin characteristic" and said it wasn't a mechanical defect.

AFAIK, there is only one procedure detailed in the service manual that "calibrates" anything- the default clutch engagement threshold.
Over the years terms like "DCT reset" and "reset" has been thrown about but it's the same procedure.
.
PS disconnecting the battery only resets the clock :)

So I wasn't a 100% accurate, but it was about right

@RBMann
+1 on the moly! and play. I would take the spacer out. Honda never meant it to be there.
The torque setting is very low on the AT nut, something like 29FT LB if memory serves.
If you're swing arm adjusters are in the same spot, there should be no need for an alignment tool.
If your mileage numbers are correct, you are very good on your bike. 27k miles out of a front sprocket is impressive. And for that mileage it barely looks worn. Ditto for 18k for chain.
I replaced my front at 20k KM, as it was starting to curve. Chain was done at 33k KM.

Thanks for the info. I have Honda Moly, new chain and sprockets. Going to remove the swing arm and check for grease in all the pivot points. I lube the chain every 250-300 miles which really helps. Traveled with a friend that lubed every other day. Here is how his DR650 rear sprocket looked at 6,000 miles before the trip was finished.

I'd guess that DR650 chain was kept too tight with not enough slack for the suspension travel.

That wasn't caused by the difference in live schedule.

Must've been. My stock DR sprocket went for 12k miles and didn't look even a fraction that bad. I probably could have carried on using it, but I replaced it anyway when I replaced the chain.

Hello everybody, I don't know if I can put my problem here:
Sorry for my English, I am French from Martinique.
i have a mechanical africa twin 2016 and overnight i have an idle which increases to over 2000 hot revs. In the morning, when cold, it starts up and goes out immediately. When I drive at low speed, the engine jerks, and it's very unpleasant.
She stayed at the dealership for 3 months, but no solution was found. Several parts were tested from another identical africa, the coils, the fuel pump, and the ecu update was done. There is no fault code. I had to get it back and paid nothing.
So I will search and solve the problem, have you ever had this problem? Which direction should I take?
Thank you in advance for your help.

I had the same problem and it was the idle air sensor, and a bad spark plug.

Thanks for tour help,

Did you have the reference number about it ?

https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/16451-MJP-G51

https://www.hondaparts-direct.com/o...ff997d/e20b8431-9182-443b-8670-6d7aa635be1b/y

Thanks a lot

I'd consider replacing the entire assembly.

Ref:
5
16430-MJP-G51
VALVE SET, IDLE AIR CONTROL
Price: $120.10

https://www.hondaparts-direct.com/o...ff997d/e20b8431-9182-443b-8670-6d7aa635be1b/y

ok thank you, i will buy it

The other thought was bad heat treatment on the sprocket.

Is that Aluminum? If so not really surprised. If steel... ouch, something was very off with the set-up.

Hey guys, I’m tryin to install a battery tender lead to my 2017 DCT. I have the positive terminal ring installed but I’m not shire how to get to the negative terminal. Do I need to completely remove the battery to get to the negative terminal? Can I just connect the negative lead to a ground bolt on the frame? I know next to nothing about electricity.