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Discussion in 'Japanese polycylindered adventure bikes' started by twinrider, Mar 18, 2016.
Oil topic . Manual says 10w30.
10w40 is still suitable for long term use?
I usually change oil and filter 6-8000 km.
Personal preference. Lots of guys are running 10w40. My preference is to stick with the recommended 10w30. I'm running the hp4s 10w30.
I think the viscosity is more important when running a DCT than a manual, and as I have a DCT I'm running 10w30 - Rotella T5 works for me.
I was running 5W40 synthetic in my '17 and am going to be doing the first change on my '19 using the same stuff by the end of the weekend. I'm not dead set in it, but with a W40 oil I don't have to worry about it being resource conserving for the clutch. The one I use also happens to be labeled as JASO MA. I guess not than anything it's just what I was running in my DR650 as well, so a bit of just habit too. Feel free to convince me to use some other inexpensive oil.
I have an africa twin 2016 and in the morning cold, it starts and the idle makes stall or stall. Sometimes it also stalls when I brake or accelerate suddenly. The fuel consumption has increased a lot and I have the impression that there is a loss of power. I have already changed the IACV but it hasn't changed anything. Do you have an idea please? Thanks for your help.
Your valves may need to be adjusted.
the valves were checked at 44,000 km and now the bike is at 51,000 km, how is that possible ?
I had a similar problem, and it ended up being the IACV, and a cracked spark plug. The valves were just an idea. Does it do it all of the time, or just when cold?
So the callage after starting is done cold only, once hot, it does not stall and the idle is stable. On the other hand, I have a loss of power at high revs as if the bike is hesitant to accelerate, or as if it is going back and forth. And I lost nearly 50 km on the usual range
it may happen that it stalls hot when braking or starting at a green light.
Sorry for my englisn, i'm french. Thx for your help
No worries. I would also check the tank vents, and the spark plugs. Has it only done this since the valve check? Maybe they did it wrong or pinched the tank vent hose putting the tank back on?
I changed the spark plugs and also checked that all the pipes were properly in place myself. On the other hand, I don't know how to check if the spark plug wires or the anti parasite are good. I said to myself, maybe the fuel pump or the ignition switch, since the idle fluctuates when cold and goes out, I have to accelerate. I had this problem after washing the engine. motorbike.
Air filters and air box drains.
I have already checked the drains and the filters are nickel
Surging and loss of power under high load demand hints at fuel starvation. I'd pull the tank and inspect the condition of the fuel pump pickup filter for debris and clogging.
Good DIY to ya!
...or, air leak...:)
2016? Ignition switch until proven otherwise.
But broken plugs are not unheard of. Plugs are EXPENSIVE !!!!!
I had one.
I'm starting to hear about fake spark plugs on Ebay and Amazon. The symptom is that they break apart after not many miles. To be safe I've resorted to buying spark plugs only from well known sources, despite the cost.
It was the original from factory. They thought it was probably just a defective plug.