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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by joec63, Sep 4, 2012.
Great picks man!
Thanks for sharing.
The 2017 L garage find first oil change and subsequent ride.
My headlight stopped working after riding the other day.
Fuses are good, battery is at 12.7 volts, <1 ohms resistance across at the bulb (low and high). What's odd is that with the key turned on and dimmer switch on low, both the high beam and low beam circuits have 12 volts at the headlight plug. When the dimmer switch is set to high, both circuits drop to 0 volts. When plugged in, the headlight doesn't turn on regardless of dimmer switch position. Any ideas?
Didn't understand fully, seems like it doesnt work at all bike running or not doesnt matter?
Below starter push button on the right side, just below it there is a little weep hole. Take WD40 and spray a bunch in that hole and beneath the button itself. Then press it about 20 times (key off of course). Wait for half hour for WD40 to drain and give the headlight a try.
If that doesn't fix it report back maybe I can give some other advice, but that is the usual cause.
Edit: Doh! Opened the headlight plug housing and realized I was measuring the wrong wires. The dimmer works as expected now. I think I’ve narrowed it down to the headlight bulb, even though it appears fine. We’ll see!
Correct, the headlight doesn’t turn on in any condition when plugged into the bike. Just flushed the starter button drainage hole with WD40 anyway. No change.
I think the starter circuit is operating correctly, because when I thumb the starter the voltage at the headlight plug goes to zero, then comes back up. Just flushed it with
What’s hanging me up is the way that the high and low circuits have 12V simultaneously with the dimmer set to low, and they both go to 0V when it’s set to high (measured at the headlight plug). I’d think that this would cause the high and low beams to both be on at the same time, but instead the headlight doesn’t turn on at all? I just pulled the switch and cleaned it — everything seems fine.
So white and blue wires to the plug, that is the plug itself, measures 12V on both positives when measured against the green. When in low position on dimmer both high and low (white and blue) wires have 12V? But the blue high beam light on the dash either doesn't light up at all or just slight dim light possibly. And the starter button works correctly.
If the dimmer switch is good, then there is no way that both high and low (white and blue wires) have 12V except if you have a disconnection of ground probably inside the bulb someplace, then 12V travels from "low" filament not to ground as its disconnected but through "high" filament to dash and other places basically floating.
If the dimmer switch would have been bad, either one of them wouldnt have 12V ever, or they would both be on.
edit: after the "high" on dimmer switch its basically "Y" connection, so from dimmer switch to both the bulb itself and dash indicator also. And the headlight bulb is also a "Y" connection, ground (negative) is common, connected together, and 2 positives, that is why when you dont have ground line anymore, it goes through the other positive one, back to dimmer switch open contact, and to dashboard.
So check the plug for ground wire continuity, and since that will probably be fine, its ground connection (negative) fault inside the bulb someplace.
Thanks for the help! It ended up being a combination of a faulty starter button and my incorrect measurements at the plug. Sprayed some WD40 into the drainage hole of the starter button housing and the problem is mostly resolved. Thanks again.
Not many pics of the 250L were taken, but she made it into a few. Below are some pics and a short video of the Saturday ride.
After all it is the usual cause. Factory greases the 2 sliding contacts of the starter push button, but they also have drain hole, over time dust gets in through it and next to the button itself, collects on the grease, eventually makes it less conductive and bit burnt. I have disassembled and cleaned mine the first time, that lasted less then the next time when I just put a bunch of WD40 . Also best not to use electrical contact cleaner as that leaves everything bone dry, that is best for connectors.
Explored some new roads yesterday
Some exploration from last weekend, TW302 at the back does surprisingly good for hills when its down to 1.2-1.3 bar / 17-19psi, too strong sidewall for any more pressure for dual sport 50-50 use.
Nice. Friend has a 2018 250L Rally with similar mileage for sale that I may purchase this week.
A few weeks ago I posted my initial experience with a few mods I had done.
After using the bike foe the last few weeks I wanted to report what I felt about these mods.
I am really happy with the way the bike rides now. The suspension is finally not crappy ( I’m am a big guy) much more planted and eats up bumps much more smoothly and firm. I like the new bars and pro grips for the road (I am driving on country backroads)
On the dirt the pro grips though super comfortable sacrifice feel ( coming from ODI which are quite thin) as well as the wider bars compared to the stock bars. Stock was more nimble and responsive. I like it though and since I’m not really dirt bike riding the CRF
I am happy. cheeers
Hey folks :) Just now finding this thread. Usually I stay in the regional forums and nowhere else.
This summer my 2015L did wonderful duty as an adventure bike. It more than earned its space in the shed. Many mods. Fully replaced suspension. Bigger exhaust + EJK + widened snorkels. Next I'm trying to fab better luggage racks.
Adding to the post above .. this summer I took up more-lightweight dual sport camping instead of riding the big pavement princess everywhere. The L got me into little places that would have kept the big bike out. Used a big camo rain fly to cover both the tent and the bike together. Provides a little covered space right outside the front door. Found lots of free camping :)
1970 top case!
I think he stole that top case off of my old KLR! LOL
As an old Italian bike guy, I’ve found that an occasional spritz of an aerosol product called Deoxit on switches and relay contacts keeps everything working just right. It also works to clean lock sets.
Ohhhh I see now. My bad homie !