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Discussion in 'Parallel World (790/890)' started by braaap!, Jun 14, 2020.
Yup i got a smiley face too, luckily it didnt dimple the fork tube and cause stiction
We shall send bolt replacements to all the 890 people, Thanks to Yellow pig, that is the first 890 Aurora out there.
The 790s should not face that issue though. Depends on the stop settings from the factory.
Will initiate a chain mail.
Hey guys. Some heads up regarding the issue.
Seems that there is a random situation, which of course needs to be looked at and it is really important to thank the community. All three bikes that we did locally did not experience that, it's a close call, but not touching.
We did send a chain mail to all the 790/890 customers this morning, including all the dealers worldwide. They should respond immediately and contact their customer base too.
There are three solutions, (grind, buy, get a free replacement from us), these bolts should now become M8x65mm 10.9 rated. We will of course replace these bolts free of charge should you can't or don't want to choose option 1 or 2. (grind/buy new ones).
What is more important to me it to check the picture below.
After some research it became apparent that some of the triples have sheared the triple stops. There are customer reports that some of the triples have failed completely in that spot.
I would advise to add something there temporarily, while we are working on a better solution to protect that part in the expense of some minor loss of turning radius. I know that turning radius is important, but more important is that if you crash this thing stays safe and is not shaved clean off. I feel that the welded part is too thin compared to the part of the triple clamp. If it was wider, then the surface contact would be larger and it would contact the stop on the triple at a lower point (where the stop on the triple is thick enough to take the impact).
Apologies for the inconvenience caused and many thanks to the community once again,
Checked mine, they are fine. I haven't had any hard crashes yet though. Now I am just waiting in eager anticipation for my Aurora kit to ship
And here is what happens on the other side if the triples are damaged. (ouch!)
Forks will touch the frame first (not the tower). Photo from a FB thread which was started just for that reason.
I wonder if the larger damping force of the Scotts damper would absorb enough more of the energy of the bars being whacked all the way to the steering lock in a hard crash to reduce the chance of cracking the steering stop?
About 1mm of space betwen the bolt and fork tube so I'll be grinding that down a bit soon.
As for the bump stops, mine are fine so far but as far as I can tell this has nothing to do with the Aurora kit, right?
Scotts high speed circuit should help a lot I reckon.
Bump stop damage has zero to do with Aurora.
Totally... Bump stop damage is purely and entirely caused in 110% of cases by the 'nut' holding the handlebars.
Does anyone know if leaving the on/off switch disconnected from the can-bus dongle will effect functionality? I don't need the ability to manually turn the light on and would rather eliminate some of the extra wiring if possible.
What on-off switch?
It will not affect it, you can disconnect it and have it with out.
@SoilSampleDave the BUS controllers now have an extra bypass switch plugged in to them.
Thanks for the heads up, my low beam bulb wasn't working, with or with out the switch. Ended up taking the front of the bike apart again and made sure something didn't come disconnected. I used my DVOM to double check that the canbus was outputting proper voltages, which it was. Thought I had a bad bulb, UNTIL------I realized the connection for the low beam bulb is NOT keyed, turned the connection around and the light is now working as it should.....Getting closer
How much clearance is there between the stock led turn signals and the windscreen?
USA models get the old school giant incandescent ones thanks to DOT rules about surface area. I bought the slick ones from Cyclops that double as running lights up front and brake lights in the rear. Only $80, but that was last year, so maybe more now. That’s about what it used to cost to get the euro ones from Bikers Jersey ( British Isles, not New Jersey), but they closed up shop.
FWIW, the Euro LED's have approx 6mm clearance inside of the screen...
Ok, I’m out of ideas, I have everything as far up and even side to side as I can get and the fairings are off by a mile and I’ve tried to get the turn signals to fit even spacing towards the middle with a stack of washers and I can’t get them to not contact the windscreen. Any words of wisdom or areas to get extra movement I may be overlooking?
Might pay to call / email the team at Aurora for insights. Hard to know why from the pics... But yeah, something is out of whack!
Are you talking USA spec signals? I don’t think they will fit. Kit was designed around ROTW signals. You don’t want that incandescent crap on a bike this nice anyway. Reaching out to Aurora is the best idea. But I would say put the windscreen down, and loosen all the bolts that hold the tower in the vertical position. Then get a helper to just rage on the tower, pulling up. If it doesn’t move, you missed a bolt or two. Have them keep holding until you have everything tightened up. Don’t let them leave. Loosen the u-bolt on the spider and the other side bolts. Move the tower side to side until it is perfectly pointed straight ahead. Tighten all those bolts down, then you can send your partner on the way.