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Discussion in 'Parallel World (790/890)' started by braaap!, Jun 14, 2020.
Those look like they would not survive a good fall. But, I am not an expert.
Good point. I hadn't thought about that in my excitement over the potential to redirect air flow.
OTOH, it essentially replaces the OEM tank Fairing, which is a "sacrificial" plastic trim piece IMO. As long as the new side pieces were in the same price range (~$135), it shouldn't matter to a rider which one they use. It wouldn't to me.
Anyone have a salty switch setup for these 3 pre-drilled spots? Curious if there are switch recommendations out there. Not a lot room on the backside...
Trying to avoid buying 92 different trial and error amazon switches, which I will inevitably do without some intervention.
I used these, I needed to loose the middle one due to clearance issues with the 12V out.
12V Stainless Steel Refit Switch 7/8" 22mm Motorcycle Handlebar Switches Headlight Fog Lamp Light Horn ON OFF Latching Button|handlebar switch|motorcycle handlebar switchhandlebar motorcycle switches - AliExpress
I cant help myself!
then this happened:
Nice, looks great - thanks for sharing!
Nice one @Yellow Pig .
Update (but YP knows it already) on the 890 bus controller. Seems that KTM has made it more complex than what it should be and may be the bike is waiting for a direct response from the headlight. We will solve it, but will take a bit more time.
Yes, I am aware of Peter's work, that is his GEN2 approach. There are different approaches, we try (tried) aesthetically to keep the 790 unique (as much as we can). I don't want every bike to look like the 450 rally with the same side panels. That is of course personal. But also as a company, we try to respect the language of the bike and the front does not look that it blends with the rear. Couple that with the crash and the much larger side panel and it'd be a tough call to make something like this. Plus, if you embrace the tank, the bike will look much more bulky.
The other reason is that if there is something done, even from a privateer, we will not do it. Out of respect that it is somebody's work and we will not just copy it to get profits from that. I have never done that in my career and I am not intending to. It's also better to wait and move along (we have the 890 can bus controller, the EURO 5 T700 stuff, the new 701 exhaust which is different). When I had only the Xplorer to care for, it was peanuts. Now we have 5-6 models in the range, and all of them have changes this year, with 3 people on board you focus on these changes and the survival of these projects. We were the first ones with the bus controller, we were the first ones to have a backup safety switch and we will be the first ones for the 890 to have a proper, working controller with a safety backup. But takes so much effort it's not even funny sometimes.
I wrote a book on that, and then it got lost in the internet black hole. As Aurora we stick to what we think will complement the OEM bike. We (I) let the others do what they feel (I mean the manufacturers), but I think that by respecting the OEM aesthetic language, I am respecting the OEM designers . I once did the opposite and did what a company wanted for Dakar. It turned out monumentally awkward. Not bad. But not good either.
I am not bitching around, just sharing my thoughts
So I had a pretty unnerving ride home the other night. It was my first time on dark back roads. I had a 1 hour ride home with my daughter on the back. At 60 MPH I could see exactly 1 second in front of me then nothing, like a black hole after that. The Squadron Sport is nothing short of amazing, but I cannot for the life of me figure out what is going on with this Morimoto/Hella combo. Yes, I came back to this thread with a fine tooth comb and it looks like I'm not the only one with this issue. Yes, I have since adjusted the light fixture as far up as possible and it made a difference, but then there was a huge gap between the headlight and the windscreen. So I pulled it back apart and now have this M60 sitting in front of me. Instead of moving both lights, can I just take some material off of the stand-offs? There seems to be plenty of wiggle room where it matters.
Beyond that, I have a Dremel, some redneck mechanic in me and a 3D printer. What is a better option for low beam? The Squadron Pro LED Driving Combo? Is amber better? I have never driven with amber.
I would not advise to start hacking it. It would be better if you'd want to change the angle to add washers to the lower two M4 bolts.
Do you have any photos of the bike with the lights adjusted? It is the only way that we can comment in a proper way and not speculate. @Yellow Pig can comment on the Baja Installation on the main beam. Squadrons will not fit there and it would be a major hacking on the light mask, one that I would not advise. You could potentially install a Squadron, but from the front (rather from the rear like the one you have on the high beam) and you'd have to risk that it touches the stone guard in a bad way. The amber is far better for not blinding oncoming traffic otherwise it's really, really bad for the other cars/bikes out there. The optics and the size of that Hella are really good. If you get the beam right where you want it, you should be ok. I consider the HID a good upgrade on that projector (but you need to place the ballast somewhere) since it utilizes 100% of its capabilities. The LEDs, by design loose a small area.
Don't even own a KTM, but man these things are freaking awesome!
Another thing you can do, now you have it all in pieces.
The light mask (the black part) is attached to the Hella light support (the other black part...) with 4 M6 bolts.
2 on the top, 2 on the bottom.
While you are hacking, reverse the top bolts. i.e. keep the nylock nuts on the front and the head of the bolts on the rear (tower inside side).
This way you clear some valuable millimeters and the thing does not interfere with the Baja Squadron.
Let us know how this goes,
Are you talking about this gap here?
If so, I have a few questions;
1) Did you find that the aiming was accurate in this position or was it still a compromise?
2) If the answer to 1) is that it was accurate, then are you doing all of this just so you can get the headlight plexi to align with the windscreen? Also, why do you feel that is necessary?
3) If the answer to 1) is that it is still a compromise, what is the specific limit you are encountering - light is too low and max height adjustment? Is it only regarding the bottom hella/morimoto, or does it also impact the top Squad Sport
@640 Armageddon, given the number of folks in this predicament, I would say your geometry is incorrect and you should re-look at how both lamp positions are intended to align. I too would prefer that the headlight plexi and the windscreen were closer to the same plane when the low beam is set correctly.
Yes, that is the gap I was talking about. I didn't get any long, dark rides in at that angle, but a drive around the neighborhood lit up the 3M on the stop signs which it wasn't doing before. But that is physically as high as it will go.
Yes, everything I did above was for the purpose of closing that gap. My OCD says it is necessary.
The Baja was spectacular prior to making adjustments for the low. I did not get a chance to test the high beams out after making changes for the low beams. My goal is to close the top gap, bring the high beams back where they were, and have a good angle on the low beams.
Maybe a few complete pictures from the side and front so we can see clearance to the fender? After installation was complete, did you go back and loosen every nut/bolt that holds the tower together and upright, and then have a second person pull it up as high as possible and hold it while you tighten them all back up? Made a huge difference for me when I was struggling to get the low beam pointing far enough ahead. It's all dialed now and working like a champ. My cockpit was also not centered thanks to some sloppy ktm welds, so I also loosened the U-bolt and the OEM fairing mounting bolts and held it centered while first tightening the U-bolt and then the other ones.
All back together as it sits now. I haven't gone as far as to loosen every nut/bolt and give it a good tug. I think the fender gap looks okay. I'm going to wait to ride tonight before I go making any more changes.
Edit: It is raining tonight. All I got was a ride around the block. It is still too low.
Way back in this thread, I went through the same thing. I was able to get the low beam where wanted it by tilting the entire shell, but I could not get the high beam right, no matter what I did. I completely disassembled the assembly that holds the high beam like did, and tried to get the required rotation/tilt to make the throw correct. No matter what I did to that 3D printed surround, when I finally bolted everything down, it would move where I didn’t want it. Then the light bulb went off. The mounting bolts on the side of the squadron that the light pivots on to adjust are not centered on the light. So the light doesn’t so much rotate as move in a small arc, and it hits the 3D part as a result. I can’t remember which end of the slot on the tower that the light bolts pivot on that I modified, but I extended the end of the slot. This allowed the light to remain where it needed to stay in the cutout of the 3D holder, but now rotate further to make the aim correct. So yeah, after many hours of hard work, it turned out to be a 30 seconds of Dremel project after all. Search back in the thread for more details. I also took pictures yesterday to give you an idea of where my tower is mounted. That is a tube of chapstick I placed on the fender for scale. And you can see that while the top of my headlight is tilted in for a higher low beam, it’s not that much.
Thanks. It has been raining for the last 3 nights here so I haven't had a chance to test the low beam. I did the whole loosen every bolt thing this morning. That didn't make a difference. The only way to gain height out of doing that is to use up the slot that the vibration mounts are slotted in. That is another story. The "hand tightening" of the vibration mounts. but I digress. While I had it apart, I thought I would tackle the high beam because that 3D printed part was always a mystery to me. Went back out and fiddled some more and realized I hadn't taken off enough material. Even then, I'm about to throw out that 3D printed part. It is pretty useless. I was never able to get rid of the gap. Why not just but it up against the foam, tighten it up, and call it a day? Better yet, yank the foam, Dremel out some plastic, and gain another 9mm? Looked like YB had the low beam flush mounted from the back side. I have been at this for 8 hours now and can no longer see straight. I'm about to call it a day. Sorry if I am venting a little.
First of all, and I mean that in a really big way, not in a small way, please, and I have said that multiple times during this thread, please don't start hacking around because something you think is wrong, doesn't fit, or you don't like it, unless you send an email to us to explain help.
This 3d printed part, will stop the light being reflected back to you, ride in the rain, turn on the lights and get back with comments. Nothing in that kit, is just because. And nobody here, unless qualified, or designed the kit will be able to assist you. That's formal, and even what Dave says for example, it has already being done on your tower, as the slots were enlarged because of those issues.
I'd say the following. Please wait before you alter irreversible any parts, while we assess the situation. We WILL try to help, just stop dremeling things out. Then, if things don't work, it will be next to impossible to trace the problem.
I want to point out that guys, hence a second post. Since this is the Aurora thread, please contact us when the issues, or any problems arise. That's before doing any changes. We are quite responsive and people here can confirm that.
Asking in public for solutions will, more often than not result in changes that will be irreversible, and I have to say that we had to replace items, due to people messing with them, on our own cost, not because we had, but because we wanted to help. But please, get us an email. Because if you hack the parts, and the problems are not solved, we will not be able to check solutions, or offer advice. Further to that, we will not be able to get a proper solution, so that we communicate it to the other riders.
Thanks once again for your support, trust and understanding,