The definitive Aurora Cockpit Thread...

Discussion in 'Parallel World (790/890)' started by braaap!, Jun 14, 2020.

  1. SoilSampleDave

    SoilSampleDave Dr. Zaius was right!

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    Facts! Aurora was super-responsive when I needed help.:1drink
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  2. Mudguts

    Mudguts when in doubt GAS IT

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    Soooo your saying using the plasma cutter is a bad thing ??
  3. striped tomato

    striped tomato Been here awhile

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    Hi there, anyone got any tips on the wiring loom. I just can't seem to get as much main wiring loom around that bottom spacer as on the video and hence I don't get anywhere near as much out of the top off the tower as is shown on the video. I might pull it all apart again and try once more, and chase any spare length through the harness in the chassis but right now I'm not even close to getting the power socket connector to reach, the light connectors to tuck up in the top of the upper mount or gain access to the acc1/2 connectors.

    Many thanks for any tips
  4. SoilSampleDave

    SoilSampleDave Dr. Zaius was right!

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    I’d reach out to Aurora directly; as noted above, they don’t mind. I believe there was one part of that process where I found it easier to temporarily remove a spacer that my fat hands weren’t able to work around, and then put the spacer back once the harness was through. That was a little tricky too, but it was easier for me. When you get frustrated, take a break and do something else for a while.
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  5. braaap!

    braaap! Long timer Supporter

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    What @SoilSampleDave said... Loosen it all up and double check cable bundle routing up the tower from the bottom upwards.
    It will go.
    Just have to be patient and pay attention to Aurora’s install video, there’s not a lot of room to work I agree.
    Good luck!
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  6. 640 Armageddon

    640 Armageddon Xplorer Supporter

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    Update regarding the light adjustment issues, now I am on my PC, the other replies was from my mobile phone.

    There is always a compromise when designing or manufacturing things. You will be surprised to know that the 30k rally bikes, do not actually have adjustable lights, and the new screen must rotate as well if you rotate the light mask. That means that its side panels will rotate as well. That's on the kits, not on the 450 rally factory replica bike.

    I will analyze a bit the idea of adjusting the lights, and then go on to find a solution for the issues mentioned and distribute that to all the 790 customers. These issues are non existent if you use the OEM Hella high beam since it is a circular setup, much smaller than even the Hella main beam, thus it has plenty of space to move. I am proud to say that 99% of the kits that we make have parts that have a functional purpose. Even the RGB LED light is no marketing stuff, especially when riding with multiple bikes, you can make your light ''purple'' , for arguments sake, and your friends will be able to spot you in a split second just by looking at their mirrors amongst the other bikers. It is very rare and I cannot recall any instance of the 701/690/990/790 kits that we have an accessory or a part that was there just because it'd be pretty.

    So, the Hella high beam has plenty of space to move. But! We want the Baja Squadron to get that immense light. The circular bezel of the squadron is pretty large and will not fit inside the light mask without hacking it to hell. And because people will go back and forth (Baja squadron for off roading, but Hella legal beam during commuting) we have to compromise. Hence the rectangular cutaway shape on your light mask. Other kits, leave the top hole circular, yet they use the Baja Design Squadron. So the rectangular cutaway shape that you have on the mask, is indeed helping to get as much light out as possible, taking into account that the squadron will never physically ''kiss'' the light mask, due to the different shapes.
    Another issue that you will see there is the light reflection. During racing, that is rarely an issue, hence some racing kits, that we even do, drop the mask and the guard and they leave the Squadrons to the open air. The target for racing is different. But if you leave the cutaway as it is, without any rear cover, the light will be reflected and you get this weird illumination of parts on the tower, on the back of the windshield etc. which, when we ride is completely confusing and tiring. This is of utmost importance. We tried to mask that and on the 701/690/990 counterparts, the same 3D printed cover is used. The foam that is used there is to allow more shielding from this reflection during use.

    Now. How about the adjustment. Of course different setups, require different adjustments. Two up, two up loaded, one up, different loads etc. Especially the high beam, on these setups must be adjusted separately. The reason is the different high beams used. A hella high beam has a different pattern from a Baja Squadron Spot, or a Baja Sq. driving combo, so you must adjust the main (dip) beam separately. Hence the two different slot setups. Now, the way to do it, is a bit complex, indeed, because of the issue mentioned above (the gap with the screen). The way to do it (and it can be done) is to take one step at a time. First, the screen has to be positioned with the foam on the fender as per the video instructions. That means the screen is at it's highest (or at a very high position). Then you can adjust the main beam. Having secured the main beam, let loose the Baja squadron, rotate it to the angle you want and push it as far forward as possible. Of course it is easy to write the instructions, but the Video is there, and all it is required is a bit of patience. Now, why things are tight on the 790? . Because we wanted to minimize the (1) width of the tower and most important (2) bring it as close to the rider as possible. We could get it further out, like others, we could get it wider but the characteristics would not be the same.

    Solutions. First of all, whenever you change something, make it so that this change is not irreversible. Instead of grinding the light, put some spacers on one side. If it works, then take action etc. But making irreversible changes, there will be a point that you have removed material from a part, that you will not be able to put it back there. So if a different approach needs to be taken, you will not be able to proceed. That is the reason I am saying that. The other important thing, is that here, a lot of customers have different versions of things, so as things evolve, we get to improve. If we feel the versions are important, we communicate them and we supply them to the rest of the customers. We have done so with the improved U-bolts, the tower main bolts that @Yellow Pig found out on his 890 etc. To that end, we will get another way to shield the back-scatter light and communicate that to the owners. I will get news as we go along this week.
    ________________

    Regarding the cabling, it requires step by step procedures. Get an email to support at aurora-rally.com and either member of the team will be happy to assist.

    D.
  7. slider162

    slider162 Been here awhile

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    Okay, here is an update. It will probably be my last public posting on this topic and it may not stay up for very long. But I was asked in a previous reply to keep you posted, so here I am.

    Yes, I take full responsibility for my modifications. I would never expect anyone to replace a mistake of my own doing free of charge. I do put some thought into them. The light modification would take a washer or two to undo. Plastic can be fixed with some two part epoxy and fiberglass. I have a 3D printer and surprise myself sometimes in Fusion 360.

    I meant no offense. I was asking honest questions. I had no idea what the 3D printed part was for. This is what I see when driving down the road. (Yes, I'm trying to figure out how to disable the DRLs. I have an email into Cyclops for instructions.) I'm on the fence whether or not the DRLs are affecting my night vision enough to exacerbate the low beam issues.

    [​IMG]


    And the end result...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I'm happy with it.

    Please don't try this at home. Please email Aurora for help. I don't listen very well.
  8. 640 Armageddon

    640 Armageddon Xplorer Supporter

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    I neither meant disrespect, nor tried to point fingers and get anybody else to sit on the corner with the cone hat.
    There is no reason to remove the post, nor do I think it will be removed by nods or anybody else.
    As I mentioned if the Squadron must move with the mask, that will inevitably change the main beam aim, and (some) users will be back to square one.
    Regarding reflection from the cyclops, can't comment, usually night photos exaggerate things, I'd try to turn them off and see physically during a ride of they do indeed affect vision or not.

    The good thing is that you achieved what you wanted :deal, kudos for never giving up, it says so on the kit :freaky

    D.
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  9. braaap!

    braaap! Long timer Supporter

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    Evolution happens!

    Do or not do - There is no try!
    Kudos!
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  10. slider162

    slider162 Been here awhile

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    So for anyone on the fence about the Cyclops DRLs, they can be put on a switch. I ordered a simple SPST Latching Metal Push Button Switch. It is definitely not glove friendly, but I still like it anyway. The description says it has a 16mm mounting hole. I wanted to keep it on the tower, out of the way, without removing any metal.

    Reverse engineering curves like this is quite the challenge.

    [​IMG]

    Rapid prototyping isn't all that rapid. Many hours of printing and tweaks and more printing and more tweaks later to get all of the bends and curves just right, we end up with this. I don't often use 100% infill, but I thought this would be a good time to do so.

    [​IMG]

    I ended up with something like this:

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Just reach out and turn them off when the sun goes down.

    [​IMG]

    STL is available if anyone wants to give it a try.

    https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/63749-ktm-790-aurora-rally-drl-light-switch
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  11. SoilSampleDave

    SoilSampleDave Dr. Zaius was right!

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    Yes, anything that runs on electricity can be switched. :hmmmmm
    I like mine being on at night. I really don’t get the reflection thing; are you not looking ahead up the road?
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  12. slider162

    slider162 Been here awhile

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    Sure, the first night ride I had, I thought it was kind of cool. I thought "whoh, what is this". I talked myself into "it wasn't bad". I am looking up and over and only really noticed it when I looked down, true.

    But from an aviation background, dark adaptation takes 20-30 minutes to establish. What happens every time you look down? Your eyes have to start over.

    Maybe I am getting older. Maybe my eyesight isn't what it used to be. Maybe I like my night vision to be the best it can be. Maybe I need that split second to react to a deer approaching the road. Ask yourself, what benefit are you getting by running the DRLs at night?
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  13. SoilSampleDave

    SoilSampleDave Dr. Zaius was right!

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    I don’t know how far away they can be seen, but especially when I am running just the low beam, I can walk a fair distance away and still see them. Anything that makes me more visible is a plus. When I glance down at the TFT, I don’t even notice the lights. There’s no real loss of vision worse than glancing at the TFT. Are they maybe rotated up a little past 90degrees to where more light than should be is coming your way?
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  14. Jan_Blade

    Jan_Blade Adventurer

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    Hi, does anyone have a carpe iter installed on the gen 3 backplate? Photo? It seems to me that there is not enough space. I want to buy a carpe iter, but after installing aurora I'm not sure about the space. Thanks
  15. SoilSampleDave

    SoilSampleDave Dr. Zaius was right!

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    Get the dimensions of the Carpe Iter and mock one up using cardboard.
  16. jesusgatos

    jesusgatos fishing with dynamite

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    Stacked Squadron Pro / XL80

    PXL_20210416_013924071.jpg PXL_20210416_013733831.jpg
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  17. Jan_Blade

    Jan_Blade Adventurer

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    Yes, I know, that's not a problem. It also depends on the possibility of attaching the tablet holder. Correction options can only be verified during installation. From the center of the board to the main display there is little space, so the assembly would have to be decentralized
  18. Jan_Blade

    Jan_Blade Adventurer

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    Yesterday installation

    Attached Files:

  19. SoilSampleDave

    SoilSampleDave Dr. Zaius was right!

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    Wow! Great job.
  20. SoilSampleDave

    SoilSampleDave Dr. Zaius was right!

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    So, is that just a regular commercial tablet you have mounted, but with Drive Time software loaded? I really like the idea of the whole Carpe Iter system, but it is a lot of money to spend without knowing if I will like it enough to really learn how to use it.