the DR200 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by klxrdr, May 13, 2007.

  1. BC1

    BC1 Adventurer

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    Oct 30, 2010
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    96
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    Kamloops BC Canada
    Yes that connector is probably for a dr200 sold in a different country/region. There is another unused connector under the seat. Put a multimeter on it to check if it has voltage on it.
  2. c3powil

    c3powil Adventurer

    Joined:
    Feb 2, 2014
    Oddometer:
    56
    Hi guys! Got a "new to me" DR200 yesterday. It's an '06 that I traded for my 2003 Ninja 500r. Supposedly, the first owner was stationed at an army base and used this little guy to run around on. It's in immaculate condition!

    My only qualm with the bike is that the front brake absolutely sucks. The fluid was brownish, so I bled the system and added more DOT 4. The feel is much more firm now, but the braking is still pretty bad.

    Would new pads do the trick, or should I replace the lines? Perhaps I will try new pads first since that's pretty cheap and move on to lines if that doesn't do it for me. Is Galfer the go-to brand for SS brake lines on these bikes? IMG_20190710_170756363_HDR.jpg
    Bors and MYUMPH like this.
  3. MYUMPH

    MYUMPH 'Ol Timer Supporter

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    Dec 15, 2009
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    Va
    Looks brand new!
  4. c3powil

    c3powil Adventurer

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    Thanks! It really does! What baffles me is that the odometer seems to read 30,000 miles!?!
  5. Trailrider200

    Trailrider200 Long timer

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    oem pads are organic type, so poor braking performance. I installed a set of sintered bronze HH pads. much better braking than oem pads. sintered bronze are the best for stopping performance.
  6. BigMac774

    BigMac774 n00b

    Joined:
    Jul 8, 2019
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    2
    Location:
    Massachusetts
    Wish my recently purchased 2006 DR200 was that clean. The odometer showed only 2,300 but the bike wasn't garaged so it got pretty weathered.

    My front brake was slightly dragging when I got it. Pushed the piston back in with a C-clamp. It no longer drags but it makes squeaking noises when the brake is not applied. I heard somewhere long ago that rubbing the brake rotor with acetone can stop squeaking so I tried it. It did stop but started up again soon afterwards. The braking power on mine is also poor. Even my 50cc Chinese scooter's front brake feels stronger.
  7. THRASHED

    THRASHED In your helmet, no-one can hear you sing, I hope.

    Joined:
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    I would suggest buying a wheel-cylinder rebuild kit. That will come with new rubber. It sounds like the original seals may be sticking a bit, causing the squeaking noises because the pads do not retract far enough.
  8. BC1

    BC1 Adventurer

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    My rear brakes work ok on pavement, but lock up on almost everything else. There is no feel, theyre on or off. Before I replace pads to remedy it, is there anything else I should look for?
    thnx
  9. 1Bikeman

    1Bikeman "Tentacles 'O Flailing"

    Joined:
    Oct 20, 2008
    Oddometer:
    3
    Well, I'm not sure this help, but...I recently bought a DR200 and had the same feeling = rear brake was locked or not, nothing in between. Like you, I was facing new brake shoes or something more drastic. So in a desperate and final attempt, I loosen up the rear adjuster (at the wheel) and lowered the position of the pedal (at the pedal pivot). It made all the difference for me; no more "light switch" rear brake......still can't believe it worked for me. Good luck!
  10. BC1

    BC1 Adventurer

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    Ok I understand. Ill try that. I had adjusted the petal to my preference which is a bit high.
  11. Magestyk

    Magestyk Da'Salty^Soldier

    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2006
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    409
    Location:
    Planet Earth
    Well Bois, it's been a Pleasure.
    +50K, +40 States, and 5 Years later... Time to say goodbye.
    Out with the Old, In with the New.
    With that said, if anyone is near Sacramento and wants to get a hold of My DR200(For Parts, to do a Project, or just to fuck around) You welcome to have it for $1000.
    Feel free to contact me. Obviously No plates and Registration will be included, but everything is. You just need a Truck.
    She runs fine, just have lots of deficiensies that need fixing, and I aint got time to do it.
    Heading to Texas soon for a few months. Otherwise she will be wrapped up till I get back.

    thumbnail_IMG_5190.jpg
  12. mkriley

    mkriley Been here awhile

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    May 17, 2014
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    217
    Location:
    cincinnati
    hi,
    I need some help on a dr 200 carb. Symptoms are completely erratic idle. Sometimes the idle stays high 2500 or so. BLIPING THE THROTTLE will sometimes bring it down but not always, then I have to drag it down with clutch, the idle is fine for a while but then it starts dropping till it quits. Cable is not sticking. Idle air is adjusted fine and bike ran fine for 10k miles. This came on gradualy and is worse when hot. I am running b12 now and helped a little. I am wondering if the slide is sticking or the spring got weak? any ideas
    thanks
    mike
  13. Trailrider200

    Trailrider200 Long timer

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    vacuum leak.
    Desert Denizen likes this.
  14. BC1

    BC1 Adventurer

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    Rear brake worked way better! I looked it up in the manual, the arm needs to be set like this.....imagine that

    20190731_101709.jpg
  15. 1Bikeman

    1Bikeman "Tentacles 'O Flailing"

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    Great! I'm glad it worked for you.
  16. no

    no dreaming adventurer Supporter

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    right here on my thermarest
    The DR200s we bought back in 2001 have held up well. We'll probably still have them for another 18 years. They've mostly been in rough service, short trips around town every day, which makes for a lot of duty cycles, the engines heating up and cooling off several times a day. They've seen the Rockies, the Ozarks, and the U.P. but by far, most of the mileage has been around town

    I've got only around 16,000 miles on mine, but that's because I've had six or seven other bikes. My wife's DR200 is closing in on a milestone: 20,000 miles.

    [​IMG]
    2 spoke, caycek5, drhippie2 and 4 others like this.
  17. mkriley

    mkriley Been here awhile

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    May 17, 2014
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    cincinnati
    no vacuum leak!
    thx mike
  18. Desert Denizen

    Desert Denizen The least interesting man in the world

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    For basic troubleshooting, identifying the gross cause is the first thing. In your case, a varying idle most commonly means a varying air/fuel mixture. A vacuum leak is a common
    cause, the boot between the carb and head is always a suspect, so a very minor leak due to age-cracking, failure of the o-ring where it seats to the head or just loose bolts need to be checked. The water spray method is pretty effective and not messy. I know that this is commonly done, so please don't take offense, just trying to cover all the bases. If the cause is a vacuum leak, that should happen all through the RPM range, just most noticeable at idle. If spraying water on the suspect area does not change the idle behavior, doing it at a higher RPM should also produce white smoke at the exhaust. You can also try squeezing the boot to try to provoke the funky idle. Of course, a partially plugged idle circuit
    could be another causing a varying low speed fuel mixture, so yep, carb cleaning would be next. Making sure that the throttle is immediately closing hard against the stop would rule out a sticking cable. If the carb is removed, then the slide would be checked for freedom of movement and rapid spring return.
    tony the tiger and Trailrider200 like this.
  19. BC1

    BC1 Adventurer

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    Kamloops BC Canada
    Last weekends 155km ride from home and back. Kamloops bc Canada.
    I need some thicker grips or something to reduce the bar vibration. Other that that it was a good run.

    20190803_161434.jpg 20190803_162326.jpg 20190803_163723.jpg 20190803_173218.jpg
    20190803_164652.jpg
    Trailrider200 likes this.
  20. dare

    dare n00b

    Joined:
    May 16, 2013
    Oddometer:
    7
    Anyone know if you can swap in a new cam chain just by breaking it and feeding the new one through instead of pulling the flywheel ect out?