the DR200 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by klxrdr, May 13, 2007.

  1. mj15

    mj15 Been here awhile

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    I have a friend who put a '86-88 DR200 plastic tank on his '96-'13 DR. Seems to work well, and fits OK.
    Trailrider200 likes this.
  2. The Letter J

    The Letter J Long timer

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    Santa Maria, CA
    Yeah, I got the ignition parts, thanks again. I have it all installed (lighting excluded) and verified I have spark, but couldn't get it started in a handful of kicks (which is all my busted body could muster up) so I'll have to revisit it another day.

    I did manage to hook up a tach with my old ignition and saw 9960rpm, yet my tach recorded a max of 9830. I'm still surprised by how quickly it hits the limiter from idle, easily under 1 second. It drops down around 6k rpm in a hurry at that point. I'm crossing my fingers that the new ignition lets it rev high enough for my cam to start falling on its face... hopefully 12k+!

    The stock drz125 flywheel weighs 1325g and is 110mm in diameter, while the dr100 flywheel is 1322g and 118mm in diameter. I'm sure with as fast as it already revs, that the difference between the 2 will be negligible, and my desire to lighten the flywheel is pretty much gone.

    I've been hounding a club member to sell me his old dr200 for a few years now, and I may finally be wearing him down. The bike is currently not running and the gas tank has enough of a rust problem that it started weeping (currently drained.) I talked to his wife (it was her bike) and she said she has no interest in riding on her own anymore and is happy being a passenger, in fact, she just non-op'ed the little dr.

    I can't count my chickens before they hatch, but I've had some semi off the wall ideas for a dr200 for quite a few years now, but I'll have to start with something cheap enough to not feel guilty if/when I start (c)hopping it up!
  3. Trailrider200

    Trailrider200 Long timer

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  4. mj15

    mj15 Been here awhile

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    San Jose
  5. mj15

    mj15 Been here awhile

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    The 170 is one of my favorite combos yet, the head really works at that displacement. Keeping the flywheel mass makes the drivability much better usually, and will give a nice lunge on a 11,500 rpm upshift. The 170cc/125 head has nice torque, and still rev like crazy. Your tach data is consistent with the 9800 rev limit. I find that my programmed ignition rev limit varies from my tach readout by a few hundred revs.

    Good luck on getting that 200, hope it works out. You always need to have your next project lined up.
  6. Trailrider200

    Trailrider200 Long timer

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    my '07 is 3.4 gallons
  7. andrewgore

    andrewgore Gôremā

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    I did a better inspection on my buddies DR200 yesterday. The keyway had sheered again. Quick replacement and bike's back running. I'm going to find an OEM nut as the one I installed I don't believe has a large enough flange to put enough pressure on the flywheel. Or that's my best guess. Or just weld his flywheel on and call it a day. :lol3
    Mr. Fixit likes this.
  8. BuiltnotBought

    BuiltnotBought Perpetual Project

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    Jan 10, 2011
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    Just wanted to post the resolution to my issue, as I find so often in these threads when I'm searching I find the issues but never the resolution. Turns out that I had 2 things going wrong. The reason my starter would not stop engaging was the starter solenoid. $25 for an aftermarket one and 4 bolts had it swapped.

    However the reason the bike would not crank the motor it took me about 6 hours of brainstorming, making a flywheel puller, and learning allllll about how the starting system functions - I finally realized that my starter was spinning backwards. The reason it was spinning backwards is because I had reassembled it incorrecty when I took the starter apart to check it for issues. After much searching on the Tube I found out that if you give the center body of the starter just a quarter turn it changes where the magnets are located on the inside of that body and the result is your starter will spin just fine... but backwards. Spinning the starter drive backwards never locks up your starter clutch on the crank to make the crank spin so you will never start that motor. I had to take the starter apart and reassemble a couple more times till I got it right. Lesson learned!
    WorldsOkay'est and Mr. Fixit like this.
  9. Bartmann

    Bartmann n00b

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    May 19, 2021
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    So im at a loss here i have a 2004 dr200 that i have had for 2 ish years now.. always ran good till the day it blew up i rebuild the whole entire engine.. ran great all last summer and winter.. this year it ran good until as i was driving it fried a battery.. i thought what ever il put a new battery in it.. as i noticed it will not run without a battery installed.. so as i was driving today i noticed it was starting to die again.. almost like i had no battery installed.. i checked the battery and it has 12.8v which before it was 12.5.. running the stator charges it at 13.8v.. carb is clean and all original connectors on the harness were cut and replaced "as most were corroded" i endedup soldering the 3 wires for the stator in that process.. but does anyone have any idea how a battery could fry on it where it was running for hours before hand and even started the bike a few minutes before it died? When the old battery is load tested.. it shows 12v a .5 amp load induced and it goes flat
  10. Bartmann

    Bartmann n00b

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    Should also add when the bike started to die again i still had 12v power going through the system.. im thinking i may have a shorting coil pack or just a short somewhere on the frame
  11. mj15

    mj15 Been here awhile

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    The solenoid failure was a pretty easy diagnosis. The other problem was a little trickier!
    BuiltnotBought likes this.
  12. mj15

    mj15 Been here awhile

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    Try RMATV, they could probably get the oem fasteners to you in a few days. Some of the DR/Drz motors also have a washer and/or a lock washer too. They tend to stock a lot of stuff
  13. andrewgore

    andrewgore Gôremā

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    I don't recall if the OEM nut is M10x1.0, which is what this crank is now threaded at. McMaster sells a larger flange nut for under 10$ for pack of 10. I'll just snag that. :thumb
  14. mj15

    mj15 Been here awhile

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    I think it's a 1.25 thread, but definitely double check. That may be listed on the online parts diagram
  15. Bartmann

    Bartmann n00b

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    Update it runs but it will not rev up when warm choke or not will not want to rev up... carb clean and spark plug and coil changed.. im thinking cdi.. but they arent cheap to replace.. any ideas??
  16. Klay

    Klay dreaming adventurer Super Supporter

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    My gut feeling is it may be more likely a carburetor issue.
  17. Bartmann

    Bartmann n00b

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    Took apart the cdi and the solder joints are cracked i put a known good one in it and it went away
  18. WorldsOkay'est

    WorldsOkay'est Adventurer

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    So I've been thinking about the rear shock story again... throwing around ideas in my head.

    Turns out a Yamaha Banshee 350 rear shock is the same eye to eye length (from what I can tell), but has 12mm mounting eyes. I think the DR is 10mm, can anyone confirm?

    Apparently the stock spring is pretty soft (5.6kg/mm) on the banshee rear unit compared to the DR200 unit. DR200 rear spring rate is 8.3kg/mm, but we all know how well that is working out for us. May be too soft, but I am certain stiffer replacements can be found.

    Would be curious for group input and if it is worth trying. OEM Banshee unit has compression, rebound, and preload adjustment. Huge bonus, provided there is enough range in adjustment there to work for the DR + rider.
  19. WorldsOkay'est

    WorldsOkay'est Adventurer

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    Double post, because I just got an email back from EPM Performance Imports about possible YSS replacement units. They seem like decent aftermarket replacements, made in Thailand and have good reviews. They come with rebound and preload adjustment. I had asked if they could get a specific unit for my DR600 project (which they can, unrelated), and also if they had an application for the DR200.

    They do not have one listed, BUT if I can provide the following info then he can cross reference their listings and see if there is one that might work.

    I do not have the rear shock out of my bike at the moment. He is asking for the following dimensions. I can and will rip mine out if I have to, but I figured I'd ask if any of you have an OEM unit sitting around that you could get measurements from.
    • Extended length, measured eye to eye, of the OEM shock (245mm???)
    • Width of the top eye + bushings, ID (inner diameter) of the through hole for the top eye (?)
    • Width of the bottom clevis, ID of the through hole for the bottom clevis (?)
    Post up if anyone can fill in the blanks.
  20. mj15

    mj15 Been here awhile

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    -I think the shock is 13.5"
    -top bolt is 10x58
    -bottom bolt is 10x48

    You probably will need something like a 10 kg/mm spring. I'm running a 600lb/in (10.7), and .43 fork spring. Rear is a little stiffer than the front. I think a 550 lb/in would be well balanced with the .43kg/mm
    WorldsOkay'est likes this.