Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.
OK, now I see why you jilted me on the free beer previous visit. The great cuisine. Got it.
Damn! Just threw mine in the garbage last week. On a purge here.
thanks drmiller. you reckon that even my depressing the switch (and with no effect) can mean the switch is dodgy? So in other words having no effect....?
@Paddle007 posted a video that shows you exactly what parts can go wrong with the side stand switch and how to bypass them.
That system works by completing a circuit when the sidestand is in the up position. Anything in the circuit that prevents electricity from flowing will cause the problem you're describing; a physically broken switch, a broken wire or connector, or just corrosion on the switch contacts (ever ride in the rain?). You can test that by bypassing the switch, temporarily or permanently. If you're just doing it temporarily, you can use a paperclip instead of crimping up a little jumper wire like the video suggests. If you jumper the correct wires with a paperclip and it still does it, your problem is not the switch.
I've been giving away a bunch of parts lately, so I'm gonna try to cash in on that good karma: Anyone have a set of straight down peg lowering mounts sitting around that I can buy? I have the plates that take the stock peg mounts lower and back, but my feet want to be forward.
The side stand switch is a known common failure item on the DR650.
Your symptoms are exactly what happens when the switch isn't working.
Also, the diodes in the circuit that connect the sidestand, clutch switch and neutral switch can fail causing a similar problem.
Note to self: 29" inseams suck.....
carry on with your tractor posts... nothing to see here
Did you ever get in contact with those wheels for sale up in Atlanta?
the guy messaged me but i had already bought wheels somewhere else
he took like 4 days to get back to me
he also posted them on the DR650 group on FB
a LOT of Dr's have problems with the kickstand switch. if you don't have the problems now, you probably will in the future.
Thought I'd update everyone on the quest for decent mileage on my stock-carbed '06 so you can get back to sleeping well at night.
Previous episode recap: Replaced DJ needle and jets with stock Mikuni in stock size, plugged up the drilled slide hole, reset the float. Result: 27 mpg city, 34 easy cruising, i.e. complete shit.
Tore the carb apart (again), replaced the o-ring under the slide guide, o-ring under the cap for the vacuum port, squirted carb cleaner everywhere, blew it out (and right into my eye) with compressed air, put it all back together and reset the float (again), reconnected right side breather hose that had fallen off. Result: 39.48 mpg in mixed riding, including a couple nice full-throttle pulls. I'm calling it 40, so sue me.
Takeaway: it was either the float level, or the slightly sticky choke plunger causing me grief. I may tinker with the float one more time just to see if I can break that 40 mpg barrier, but at this point it is good enough to carry me 200 miles on an IMS tankful, and that plus my spare fuel bag will allow me to cover the 260-mile, no-gas stretch of the Continental Divide Ride. And that was the goal. Bonus: I can now strip a carb like a mofo.
@Scribe -- My 100% stock BST-40 returns 48-50 mpg all day long (with a 14T CS in situ, which increases engine RPM slightly).
Just some motivation for you during your next tinker session.
When it's right you should easily get high 40s and even squeeze mid-high 50s out of it with sedate riding.
I was getting 32mpg last year. Tore the carb apart, replaced the pilot jet and rings. I get 42 to 43 with fairly aggressive riding. 14/42 and knobbies. I'll take it.
Dad gets 60mpg on his KLR with the carb mod and lower tooth on his front sprocket.
Did it have a DynoJet needle but no modification to the airbox?
If so, that would explain a large part of the poor mileage.
Good for you! Inquiring minds want to know if you went to a bigger or smaller hammer?
My bike barely passed the state inspection after I promised to change out my brake pads ASAP. Therefore I'll be replacing the front and rear brake pads tomorrow or Saturday. Thanks to Clymer, the Suzuki Shop Manual, YouTube University and a little tinkering, I have a sense of the job and I think I'm ready to tackle it. One area of confusion remains: the (rear only?) OEM pads come with a shim but aftermarket ones apparently do not. I assume that I need to transfer the shim from existing pads if using aftermarket? Is this an easy task or are they likely to be stubborn? Are these shims also likely in need of replacement? Please set me straight because as much as I like going, I also like stopping.
Rear brakes are a two minute job. Two allen head bolts. Pop em' out, swap in new pads.
Thanks, but what about the shims?