the DR650 thread

Besides the holes in the rim being at different angles there are other issues. Different brands of rims have deeper or shallower 'valleys'. This means spokes that fit a 19" Excel won't necessarily fit a Sun or a Warp 9 rim, Pro-Wheel rim, Behr rim, etc. A tiny bit too long is OK because the ends of the spokes can be ground off. A tiny bit too short is not so good.

As @thump! said, it's important that the holes drilled in the rim are aligned with the spoke holes in the hub. If they don't line up the spokes have to bend to make the connection. A wheel will be strong and safe when the spokes are all pulling in a straight line. A spoke and nipple can be thought of as a bolt and nut.

The speed would be gearing dependant, but there (for me) is a "sweet spot", 4500-5000 rpm. It settles into a smoothness that's a joy to stay in. Many find the wind & seat more of an issue at higher speeds, a very personal issue. Windscreens may help, I put mine on if going more pavement than gravel for several days.

With my 14-43 spockets, 100kmh is perfect. Also much smoother over a wider rpm range after converting to 790.

The DR is not buzzy at all, in my limited experience. Very first ride on my DR, was a "fly & ride" type deal. It was about a 200 mile ride home, and quite comfortable to me. My new favorite bike!

I agree. I have no issues with the DR but my hands get numb on my Africa Twin which is a VERY smooth bike.

i want some stiffer bar riser bushings. i cant find anything for the 650. will drz bushings work? i would thing small stuff like that are parts bin stuff

The Stock DR 17 inch rear rim doesn't have the same angles left to right due to the offset (not centred) on the hub created by the cush/Sprocket drive plus the spoke lengths left to right side are also different. Unlike the Front DR wheel/rim which has the same angles left and right and the rim is centred over the hub. I learned this when I laced up a new set of wheels (21inch front and 18 inch rear) using excel rims drilled for the DR hubs. The supplier (Ash's spoked wheels) told me it didn't matter which way around the front rim went, but the rear rim was especially marked which side was the brake side and the rear spokes came in two separate packs for the left side and the right side.

Thanks for this Kezza, it helps me understand the issue. I'm not sure if the DRZ rear wheel is drilled similarly but it seems likely.

i just love the look of Black Rims/hubs and Chrome spokes

For you down under guys

I have a used spare here if you want me to mail it.

My backyard!!

And the front drive!!

Thanks for the reply.
Just to clarify. You have the Yenkro with or without the screen fitted.

I assume your shield is on your helmet.

I am 6-2 and wonder where the wind is with the with and without a screen fitted.

its dead today... do we need topics?
what oil do i use?
What brand oil do you recommend?
Bar ends? what are they for?
Miatas vs Airplanes which one is better
I want a shinko 244 but have kenda 270 which is better?
How to remove grips from throttle tube?
How to remove the Sprocket Bolts?
Blue locktite vs Red Locktite?
Best Time to visit Colorado?
Polar bears or Teddy bears? which are easier to feed?
Pro Taper bars vs Tusk bars? which will turn my forks?
Which brake pads are better?
Is 10w40 better than 5w40 ?
why do people use Rotella?

Do you all need more?

I haven't been on here much over the summer and I know we're just coming out of the weekend but I was surprised myself.

I use 15w50 syn-blend in both the Himalayan and the DR. Both bikes are similar in the engine/drivetrain department, it keeps things simple, and a 4L jug split between the two is just about perfect. This year we used Motul but I have a new jug of Bel Ray sitting in the shop for winter storage. Well see how that goes next year.

I've used HDEO in my Strom for about for about 12k with no issues in any way. The last oil change was 2 quarters of Mobil Delvac 1300 15w40 and 1 quart of Rotella T6 15w40. Odly enough that home brew concoction has felt the best shifting wise when compared to all conventional or all synthetic. Next year I'll try an even split of T4 and T6 15w40 to see how that goes. I doubt I'll seize an engine or grenade a transmission.

Miatas vs Airplanes which one is better
I want a shinko 244 but have kenda 270 which is better?
How to remove grips from throttle tube?
How to remove the Sprocket Bolts?
Blue locktite vs Red Locktite?
Best Time to visit Colorado?
Polar bears or Teddy bears? which are easier to feed?
Pro Taper bars vs Tusk bars? which will turn my forks?
Which brake pads are better?
Is 10w40 better than 5w40 ?
why do people use Rotella?

Do you all need more?[/QUOTE]

I have one, when removing the plug over the fuel screw on the BST40 what size hole, how deep, what size screw to use to extract the plug? Also just pulling on the screw is good or would a small socket with a washer over it be better to just turn the screw in and let that force extract the plug? Any other things to be aware of other than drilling too deep?

You'll see that the plug is a slightly different color than the bore of the opening. Just pick a drill size slightly smaller. That plug comes out like butter and the screw should be recessed enough that you don't need to worry (too much) about damaging it. Just don't schmokel it.

i did my first rivetedc chain yesterday with the 27 dollar amazon chain tool. I assume I swedge the master link with the spreader bit and the goal is to just open it up enough the outer link doesn't back out. Right?

yep. Be careful not to overdo it because you run into the possibility of breaking the pin.

I nearly poked an eye out doing that.

My motion pro riveting pin has a half moon at the riveter tip and then there's a ridge. Once the pin is squished down to where it touches that ridge, you're done. It doesn't take much at all.

Agreed. I've had some interesting convos with folks who wonder why I'll ride in the cold and/or the rain, but bag it when recurrent high winds are in the forecast. My position is unchanging: I can dress for the cold and the rain (and the heat, come to that), but I can't control the wind. If it can push my truck around, I'm not going to seek it out on two or three wheels.

Agreed. That's the standard fitment on my Ural, and it's a nice aesthetic. Reproducing it on my DR would be costly, and as of now any such funds would first go toward a suspension upgrade.