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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.
Awesome! Two attachment points makes so much sense.
So I wonder about cutting a few inches off the length of the hitch arm and then redrilling the hitch pin hole, in essence choking up on the length a tad to put it closer to the tailgate. Or better yet just relocate the hole so the whole arm, untrimmed, slides in farther. If it will do that without bottoming out.
Oh man the memories- spent many an hour digging around in ASR 33's complete with paper punch and reader. Back in the 70's again.
I think that's possible specific to the bike (or bikes) you intend to haul. Handlebar width and slope of your rear topper window are immediate limits but also rolling the bike up the ramp and and the front (between bike & truck) tie down point come into play. There's a good bit of rocking that goes on as you load and tie down. I think the hitch hauler builders have built in space to accommodate all the variables and we can reduce the lever arm somewhat for our use. Even securely tied down the bike will still bounce on the suspension and rock forward so you still need space between the bar end and window. For reference my bar width is only 30".
I like mine a lot. Installation is simple. Keeps the wind pressure off my chest but it might increase the air turbulence a little around my head. I also like that it makes a little dash area to toss gloves in on top of the cowling.
FYI I am 6' plus a little and ride on a Procycle seat. If you look for posts by me here or on the picture thread you'll see it installed on my bike.
My only complaint is I wish it were more easily removable for occasional rides without. I guess I could get a second cowling for that purpose...
@NC Rick, There is a call from OSHA on line 1. Rick, OSHA on line 1...
Yea it's a 6 pro dual sim. It was $230 ca on Amazon. Excellent phone! Got a A2 lite also. It's nicer in some ways but for some reason I still prefer the Pro.
These guys put on a good show. I hope they were getting OT for doing it.
Denver trained its motor cops in a parking lot along my bicycle commute to work, so I got to watch them progress from Day 1. Eventually, they could toss those hogs around with abandon. It looked to me that during their tight cornering practice they covered the rear brake and the clutch to maintain control.
Yeah I don't want to break the window on my cap. Another thing to consider. Thanks.
Peak combustion pressures occur at peak torque, by definition. above that RPM you don't get complete cylinder filling due to lack of time with valves being open, below that the cam overlap allows charge to leak back out.
Detonation DESTROYS air cooled motors very quickly. Air cooled can have VERY high cylinder head temps. Low speed, up a steep hill, or idling seems to cause my bike to get the hottest.
Crappy jetting causes lean spots just off idle with the stock POS shaped needle.
I reshaped my needle per the aussie mod. I have a HC piston. My bike pulls cleanly from 2000 on. No bucking, no noises MOST of the time. When it is HOT, and I'm at low elevation (below 3500 feet), I don't run below 3000 rpm. When life is good, and I'm on single track, I'll tractor along at 2000 rpm for quite a while.
The engine bucking IMO tears stuff up. Smoothly pulling like an EFI bike does not
You'll do that in 5th gear?
Yep, its the key to low speed control. Maintain drive with a steady throttle, modulate clutch if needed due to gearing, and control speed with the rear brake, not the throttle.
But why? What's the point of 30 mph in 5th gear?
I bought one. It broke when it fell into my garage door at my house.
I mounted it an inch off the plastic cowling cuz that is where a previous homemade shield already caused holes to be drilled.
I'm 6'2. Wind hits me in the mouth, absolutely no turbulence. It is never in the way off road.
I'll buy another happily.
A well tuned carb lets you go super slow, consistent, in first gear in bad terrain.
I hear ya there. My initial post was about 30 mph in 5th. 2000 rpm isn't the issue. It was in a high gear I didn't think was good for a DR650.
FWIW I've yet to ride an EFI bike that runs as well as a properly tuned carbed bike, especially down low.
I realise I'm rusty now.
I used to commute everyday on my harley to Brisbane CBD for over 10 years in rush hour.
Brisbane is Chicago / Houston size.
Everyone running late, no one paying attention, it keeps your skills sharp.
Totally comfortable lane splitting and being visible, everyone wanting to kill me.
Just not that sharp anymore, it needs maintenance.
Off-road I'm even rustier and more cautious, even though I'm in a safer environment.
Skill maintenance and being comfortable is key.
Heaven you say..
Dang you're a funny guy..
Then again if that's all there was to drink,
when we catch up one day, i might even share one with you.
but I'm gonna edge my bets and make sure @Lil' Steve is there when that happens..