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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.
warp9bro - where y'at with the skid plate?
Interesting, yes it is. :huh
I have a valve fishing tool but it is not really needed.
I don't always use it in fact.
You put the tube in the tire and then put a little bit of air in it to hold it inside the tire.
Then I use the zip-ties and cinch it up tight with the valve sticking out as much as possible.
To install on the wheel I start at the valve and by putting the tire in the well of the rim at the valve, the valve stem sticks through easily with out fishing.
I then put on the valve stem nut so the stem wont pull back through.
Everyone done yelling "don't do that!" ?
I leave the nut at the end of the stem, not tightened up.
That way the tire/tube can move a bit and I can see if I need to make sure I am not moving the tire/tube around the rim.
If the stem angles, I adjust where I am pushing.
Hope that makes sense.
I also install a zip-tie or two around the tire AND rim at the valve once it is in place.
That keeps the tire down in the well and from rotating on the rim during installation.
I checked my zip-ties and see that I am using 18", not 24" as I had posted.
I use 6 or 8 or more as needed to keep the tire tight.
Far more than the one video I saw of the guy installing the tubeless tire.
I stopped at NAPA on the way home last night and picked up a gallon of "Ru-Glide" rubber lubricant to test and see how I like it for mounting tires.
I only wanted a little can or bottle but that was the only size they had so they gave me a discount.
Less than $10 so I have a lot to share with friends now. :eek1
I will be switching out my worn out front tire tonight and will see how it works.
today some goodies came in:
FCR39 Carb ( thanks mxrob )
SS Brake Lines
Twin Air Filter
Scored a X40fox titanium muffler for $65 also.
This should keep me busy for a little.
My Vapor was not holding it's milage (both trip and overall). Was driving me nuts. :huh I called Vapor and as soon as I told the tech it was a DR650 he said the likely problem was the battery vibrating and not making good contact, recommended putting a bit of rubber between the battery and the cover. I used a bit of old inner tube, worked like a charm.
Where are you guys finding these x40f0x mufflers, I have been looking for mouths and haven't even found a over priced one on fleebay.
Craigslist, use searchtempest.com to find one not in your local area.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Found it on craigslist, just have to keep looking.
something new coming out for are DR's:
Hoping that it comes in under 96db
This for those who are struggling with tire changing or who hate paying a shop to do it.
Step 1. Get comfortable, as much as possible anyway.
Step 2. Remove wheel from bike (it is easier that way)
Step 3. Remove the valve core to get all the air out of the tube.
Step 5. Break the bead of the tire off the rim on both sides so that the tire is loose.
Mine only required finger squeezing working around to come loose.
The rear tire I did last month seemed to be bonded on and it required C-clamps and wood blocks to tear it loose.
Step 6. Tire iron time. I squeeze the tire into the well and then use a tire iron to pull the opposite side out:
I hook the lever under the rotor and then use another tire iron fairly close:
Then the third lever goes about here:
And then the tire pops off on one side
Step 6. Pull the tube out:
Step 7. Use the tire iron to peel the other side of the tire off the rim.
I used two levers and then it pulled right off.
Step 8. is to make sure the rim strip is in excellent condition to protect the tube from the spoke ends.
I wrapped the rim with 1" wide Gorilla Tape (duck tape):
Step 9. Get the tire and tube ready to go on. I like to put a new tube in a new tire and save the old tube as a spare:
Here is the Ruglyde I bought at napa:
I think it worked very well and is less messy than dish washing soap and it dries much quicker and cleaner.
Step 10. Put the tube in the tire (duh!)
Now put a little air in the tube like this:
Step 10. is to wrap the tire/tube with zip-ties like this:
I squeeze the two beads tight together to protect the tube.
The last bit will look like this:
So you just push the tube in to the tire as you tighten up the last zippy or two and it ill look like this:
Now the tire is ready to slip on the rim so you use whatever you have for lubricant on both sides of the tire:
I start with the valve stem and just push it through the hole in the rim and then screw the nut on a few threads while I reach for another zippy:
Ziptie around the rim and tire to hold it in place and down in the well of the rim:
Then push the tire down over the rim as far as it is easy to do by hand:
I am sure the tire could be worked over the rim by hand but that would be harder (for me) than using my tire iron to ease the last bit of tire onto the rim and that does it:
It took maybe 30 seconds to install the tire after putting the valve stem nut on. Much less time than it took to write the sentence about it.
Then I slip a small screw driver tip into the lock of the zippies and undo them before pulling each one out from between the tire and the rim.
Don't try to pull the locking part through obviously :eek1
Then inflate the tire and make sure it is fully seated on both sides of the rim.
I think the RuGlyde may have helped the tire seat easier but the front tire always seems to be easier than the rear.
And the Shinko 244 is not a stiff carcass tire either.
Total time to switch the old for the new was far less than the time it took me to post this.
On to step... whatever, balancing.
I put the wheel back on the forks reversed so the brake rotor was not causing any drag:
I used a ziptie to hold the speedo drive clear too:
This is the stacks of washers the wheel required to balance: :eek1
Now I will weigh the washers and get weights to install and then remount the wheel and be happy another job went smoothly and easily.
I don't have rim locks so I am not positive that this technique will work as outlined.
I believe it will work by installing the rim lock in the tire/tube combo the same as the valve stem
However, the rim lock will have to located in the zipped tire/tube exactly where it has to be in relation with the valve stem and rim holes.
I hope this helps
Damn fine series of photos. Thanks for taking the time.
What db is the exhaust rated at?
Dang the zip tie trick looks awesome. I don't usually have trouble with tires but I'm trying this next time
Well done JagLite
Hey can you post up some help photos for my Bib Mousse tires:loll
I would have photographed that debacle but I was worried about one of the eight tire irons or four C-clamps flying off and killing me:eek1
Very nice write up. Thank you!
Lets just say I'm picturing YOU with all those knives sticking out!