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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.
thanks for posting the link
So, another noob question. I went to install my Pro Taper SE bars over the weekend and reuse the existing throttle tube. Instead of drilling holes in the bars I often to trim off the knobs on the turn signal and throttle housing? I think that's what it's called, assembly.
Everything was smooth sailing until I went to add the throttle cables to throttle tube. When I went to assembly throttle tube and the two halves that come togtogether where the two cables attached to the throttle tube, everything binds up. Am I just over tightening it, or what? I get no movement from the throttle tube. Frustrating, as this isn't the first time I've had this all taken apart, and I've never had problems in the past. Thoughts?
Loosen the cable adjusters so there is plenty of freeplay in the cables. Then readjust after it is all together. You want a minimum amount of freeplay in the opening cable and generous freeplay in the closing cable. Make sure turning the bars does not cause the revs to rise.
Well, on one hand there is a willingness to ride on the DR....But, I doubt the dress is going to help in the looks department.
I'm going to call this one a "push"- I'll keep his number just in case though....
here ya go...
So I'm looking to pick up a dual sport and came across this cheapie on craiglist: http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/dak/mcy/5092639900.html
I'm going to go check it out in a few days. Any issues I should be on the look out for? Any one have experience with high idle issues on the DR? Seem like a fair price? And what the hell is that fuel line doing coming out the top of the Acerbis tank?!
I have decent mechanical skills (for a moto noob at least), but my problem is that I'm leaving on an interstate motocamping trip in 2 weeks. I've been planning on taking my dependable little GS500, but would love to pick up a cheap dual sport to take in its place so I can get offroad a bit.
That's a '93. I suggest you keep looking for a '96 and up if you want to join this elite group.
'96 and up is better in many ways.
Appreciate the help. Is 96 and beyond better because of parts interchangeability or what?
electric start, and parts availability/interchangability with everything 96-current
One of the big improvements in my opinion is the gear driven counterbalancer which needs no adjustment, unlike the previous series, and the KLR for that matter.
There's just so much more available for the 96 and up, as well. More people to help you with it as well.
from a site about Suzuki
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][SIZE=-3]The DR650E was revised for 1996 for better handling and less weight. The new more compact engine gave less power but deliver it at lower revs, making it much more comfortable to use. There was no longer need to keep the revs above 3.000 rpm all the time to avoid the engine stalling. The smoother, yet less powerful, engine was made by upgrading the exgaust system (again) and increasing the bore by 5 mm (0.196 in) and shortening the stroke by 8 mm (0.315 in). The new engine ran very smoothly and didn't vibrate nearly as much as the engine of the RSE. Amazingly enough Suzuki achieved this smoothness by using just one balance shaft (to save weight) instead of the usual two found in most singles! New oil cooler.
Weight was reduced in several details. The seat was now narrower (and less comfortable when riding longer distances), the fairing reduced to a small top fairing without a windshield, the suspension and the frame totally new and improved. The new DR650SE was no less than 25 kg (55 lbs) lighter than the DR650SE! [/SIZE][/FONT]
I highlited the biggest (IMO)improvement, but the electric start is right up next to it.
I had a Suzuki SP600 (kick only) and that was a bitch to start when hot.
Do yourself a favor and get a '96+ DR.
Returning from a ride my throttle felt somewhat bound. Looking at the carb I could see excess slack in the both cables. I took it apart and discovered the top (return) cable had jumped out of its guide. Assembled correctly it worked smoothly though there was still a bit of slack in both cables. Perhaps excess slack results in jumping out of the guide in the throttle assembly.
Could it be your twisting the throttle grip extra hard in a futile attempt to get it to perform more like your KTM ?
This is starting to get old. Seems every two weeks I'm finding a missing screw. I'm barely on gravel, is this bike just vibrating the hell out of the frame?
I'm tempted to just start going through every screw and loc titing them. Are there any essential ones I should be checking?
blue loc-tite is your friend
Common screw to lose. Mine are both replaced.
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Take the advise and go for a '96 or newer. You will want the ability to replace or upgrade parts and add farkles as you enjoy ownership. Really enjoying my '12.
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My ProTaper MX Pillow Top grip is rotating slowly on my knurled aluminum throttle tube. I installed with windex about 2k miles ago. Is there any adhesive the collective likes to use for this?
I put my grips on with spray paint. Spray inside the grip, and slide it on while wet, the paint will stick it.
As for on a knurled tube? Not sure the spray paint will work, might need some grip glue.
I use hair spray on my golf grips Works good