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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.
Just in case he takes them down, I saved this one.
Aint nobody complainin'!
You don't need to be worried about hijacking this thread..
You need to be more worried about the fact that you're in Queensland and i could figure out where you are and appear on your doorstep one day and say "i have an idea for my DR...."
Just like @BergDonk is lucky that he lives in another state, otherwise when he posts about his shed time and custom DR mods he's doing, he'd be sick of me saying "i was just passing by and i have this 6 pack.."
When it comes to learning i aint bashful.
You dangle a stick with a carrot in front of a donkey long enough and the donkey is gonna appear on your doorstep and say "i don't know much, but i can help you move heavy things.."
It was required to be on the road race track even for track days back in the late 70's. I was crude at first, then after hangin around with a few meticulous aircraft guys, I got alot better.
Back in the days of minimal plastic bodywork, you could see the good and the bad of safety wire artistry just by walkin pit lane.
Many of the british bike guys were artists ! ( cuz the bike was apart as much as it was together at any given moment ! Lots of wire practice ! )
is that billet?
Artisan craftmanship, presumably with hydraulic assistance, not billet.
No. View it for free. I will not billet.
my dad was an aircraft mechanic. He had pliers like those, but as kids we didn't know what they were for. We played with them any way. Never leave them out on the lawn overnight.
I need your guys' help...
My clutch cable broke, so in changing it, i pried up on the clutch release arm. Doing that, the clutch release pinion pulled up and out of being seated. I can put it back into place and the clutch works, but I'm concerned that it came out so easily.
What should be holding that down? Do i need to pull the engine apart?
It should not just pop out
At most you would just have to pull the side cover off
Someone will be along in a few with a diagram for you
Had to smash the spark plug cap to get it off the wire. Loctited all the heatshields and bypassed the clutch switch.
Once I get my new cap in I'll swap out the old plugs and put in the procycle jet kit.
The PO put Rox 2" risers on the bike with the stock bars. With my risers I can run 1 1/8 bars is it worth it or should I just stick with 7/8?
I just went through the same decision. I chose 7/8" because I didn't want to spend extra for risers and so far I haven't had any of the problems fat bars fix. Since you already have the risers maybe your math will be different. I do like the open cockpit with fat bars but it just wasn't with the extra cash to me.
Curious and want to learn - Can someone explain to me in simple terms (with pictures would be good) how the auto decompression works on this model DR650se ?
don't go nuking and hyjacking posts! (see my previous rants about miata's) and especially DONT TALK ABOUT THOSE STUPID BAR ENDS!
i know this has been over killed but found this video by Rockymtnatv.. tells step by step of NSU and torq specs
Thank you for your reply. I've got the Clymer manual and it doesn't have a bolt listed that holds it in, looks like it should slide out... so maybe a spring clip that's worn out?
I remember a “c” clip on the end of the shaft. I could be wrong though.
There's a spring loaded weight on the camshaft. At low RPM (cranking speed) the spring is pulling the weight in and a little eccentric in the base of the exhaust lobe bumps the exhaust valve open. At idle speed and above the weight rotates the eccentric and the exhaust rocker follows the lobe normally.
Photo credit -->