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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.
RIP in piece
So the adjustable fuel screw in my FCR39 rattled out the other day which had the predictable result of the bike not idling any more and backfiring badly on deceleration.
The unexpected result was that the bike rev'd out better/stronger in the top 1/4 of throttle. So what does that mean, bike is a bit lean/rich at the top end?
I have very little to no motorcycle acquisition and registration experience in Europe outside of dealing with the DoD to register and then salvage my motorcycle when I was stationed in Germany after letting a friend borrow it (along with a brand new Shoei helmet) . . . but that is like a 2 beer story.
Knowing full well that France and Belgium are different countries, I wanted to see if this thread might help at all: https://advrider.com/f/threads/the-eastern-trail-nirvana-be-to-central-asia.1241490/
It is a fantastic read all the way through, but in the beginning you can read how about the ordeal that inmate had in acquiring a '96 and up DR650 in Western Europe. If for nothing else, you may just want to PM that inmate and see if there are any leads he may have on someone selling one. He is a great guy.
Hope that helps you find a DR650 to buy - you will love it!
There may be something else going on but it could well be your noticing more contrast when the bike starts running well again. Some of my early 2-stroke port jobs worked like that.
At some point all machines eventually die.
Fortunately this one didnt suffer the disgrace of havin it happen in a Starbucks parking lot, while other riders rode circles around it standing up and videoing the event to be posted on facebook !
"Today was the first "Unofficial" day of Indian Summer.
79 degrees, no wind, epic fall colors. Supposed to be 4 more days like it comin !
I wish we'd get a cool day soon. So far it's been in the 30's every morning and in the 90's by mid day for a week now.
Yee of so little faith. With my ability to destroy an anvil with a hammer I have acquired spare parts.
I have a used crank with a damaged keyway but...……………..I also have a brand new right side of the crank. Other than the key way damage the crank came from my running bike with no issues.
I purchased the right side of the crank for $100.00 and of course within days an Inmate here offered a low mileage engine for $400.00. It's early demise was a crack in the bottom of the case from some knucklehead bashing where a DR650 should not be bashed.
I have been around here for a while. I don’t remember seeing so much of the insides of DR motors (engines).
@Paddle007 pushing apart and back together cranks is cool stuff. Are you using a lathe as centers? Interesting project. Please keep sharing.
I'm not that talented or cool. That's why I send you my shock and fork stuff. Out local Suzuki shop quoted me $100.00 to do it. I know him and maybe that was or wasn't a brother in-law price.
And as far as seeing so many inards of our DR650, I have seen things no mans eyes should have to see. This crap cannot be unseen
Just have to love all the Blue in that picture...
How would you all describe the steering characteristics of your DR? I feel like mine has a tendency to fall into turns very easily and then doesn't feel stable in long turns as a result. It's definitely been made worse by these Continental Trail Attack IIs. The rear is ok, but the front exaggerates this steering issue. My forks are flush with the triple clamp...just the cap sits above the locking collar.
Back in the day I used to rebuild cranks for all the local shops.
I used a heavy duty and quite expensive jig to keep everything aligned while it gets pressed together.
Something like this.
That gets it pretty close but usually not quite true enough so the crank goes on to a truing jig like this
Then is persuaded to run straight and true with a big brass mallet.
I've seen folks hold them between centers to true them up but I could never make that work. Couldn't figure out where to hit it.
The DR isn’t like that normally. Certain tires make it do that non-neutral steering thing and I hate it. I really don’t even want to ride when a bike works like that. Any of the knobby tires are going to be a little imperfect but some are much worse than others. The rear tire can have some effect also. Take care that your steering bearings are in good serviceable condition.
That jig is badass. I bet it’s way more easy that a couple of us kids doing it on the work bench. When you got to ride, you got to ride . I’m not sure I gained “experience” but for sure I gained respect.
I ran Trail Attack II tires for 4,000 miles last year on my DR and had no undesirable steering effects from it.
Yeah, these are straight up street tires that they call trail attack for some reason. Non-neutral is a good way to describe it. Kind of like steering on a razor blade. I feel like I had better luck all around with a D606 rear and a Pirelli Scorpion Rally front. The knobs weren't perfect but I knew what they were gonna do. I'll check the head bearings...probably ok.
That’s surprising. Are the tire sizes correct? I always felt my favored road type tire was the MT90 in 90/90 21 because it provided very good steering feel and some traction. I liked the feel of the 120 rear over the 130 but that was less noticeable. With the Rally I’m running now, while not perfect, it’s pretty good. If you made that switch (from a Rally to those “trail attacks”) and the issue cropped up that seems strange. I don’t think the issue you describe is going to be changed by sliding the forks up or down. I personally always prefer a lot of trail, I like the front feedback. Not that I know what to do with it
Thanks, finally fell off the plane. It looked undersize at first(likely due to 14mm head vs 17mm), and was a little leery with a finger in the drain hole if it was going to fit. Was a tad over filled in oil anyways so it won't be missed. Hand tightened and torqued to 18ft/lbs... previous owner or his mech. was a bit heavy on the original so leery of the threads.
Thanks again to all the helpful folks in this thread.