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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by sleepywombat, May 1, 2006.
Yeah, 90/90 21 front.
Are the tires bias or radial design? I know some of those class tires come both ways. Just throwing that out there.
I had bad head bearings on my 650. One symptom was it was twitchy scary above 65 mph. Another was the bike was unsettled in long sweepers. Another was the big nut on top kept backing off, and if I tightened it too tight the handlebars woiuldn't turn.
Ok, worth checking. The replacement seems like a fun afternoon of wrenching and cleaning usually inaccessible places on the bike. I'm game.
Stock fork springs?
Is there a lot of dive in the front when you brake?
If so, that will really affect the feel of the steering.
Are you riding pavement more aggressively than when you had knobbies on your bike?
Some tires have different profiles on the front on "sporting" tires that are more triangular shaped to make turn in easier/quicker instead of a true rounded radius profile.
Tires have a major effect on the feel of the bike, especially cornering and as Rick asked, radials handle differently that bias ply tires, for better or worse.
Did you change anything when you mounted the new tires?
Oh I've had these tires on and off a couple times. I got lazy about recording how many miles on them, but at least 3000. There's not a crazy amount of dive. Not sure about the springs. There's some PVC spacers in there, so I'd guess at least the preload is likely higher than stock. I guess this because the bike was previously owned by a very very large man. I would say the brake dive is there but not scary.
I actually rode pavement more aggressively with the knobbies on. I feel like these roady tires don't handle imperfect road surfaces as well so I don't push it as hard...that and the dive-in feeling. I like the progressive give of the knobbies and that feeling of the rear tire bending the knobs a bit then skitting to the next row of knobs. You know where you stand with your grip.
These are the only non-knobbies I've had on this bike. I've only got about 12k on the bike personally, so my tire list isn't so long:
Rears: D606, MotoZ Tractionator, MotoZ Tractionator Desert, and the Conti Trail Attack 2
Fronts: Pirelli Scorpion Rally (x2 I think...one was given partially used), MotoZ Tractionator (garbage front tire), MotoZ Tractionator Desert (pretty good front knobby), and the CT2
It could just be that I hate these tires and will do well with a different set. I'll probably sell them locally when I swap knobbies in for a DS event coming up next month.
I follow the XR650L thread. Lots of the Honda motors get the cases split. More severe use / abuse?
There were some recent pics here of various gas stoves being used for camping, so here is mine, surely the smallest there is, running off dirt cheap canisters, which I can get at KMart for $4 for 4. I get at least 3 or 4 days out of one, so depending on how long I'm camping I'll carry spare.
Below that is a small multimeter that I also carry. Not the best in the world, but clearly enough to determine voltage, continuity and resistance. Not had to use it in anger yet, but it is tiny and durable in its sealed case.
I bought a Garmin Montana recently, looking for something that had better off-road capabilities than my previous street oriented GPS. It clicks into a Garmin rugged mount, and is wired into a solenoid circuit I have set up already for the heated grips and 2 USB sockets. I reused my hand made angle iron mount from my old GPS which was a standard size that the Garmin bolted straight to without modification.
And lastly, my 12v high-flo air pump for blowing up my air mattress, because I'm a pansy, and hate sleeping on anything less than 6" thick! Small enough to fit in the palm of my hand, powered off an auxiliary jack I have on the back .
Sometimes that feeling of falling in or reluctance to tip in can be dialed out by experimenting with different air pressure.
Nope. Those XRLs are just not as robust in the long term as the DR650. An XRL with 80K+ miles on it is pretty much unheard of (without major engine work). There are plenty of DRs just among folks who read this thread with that kind of mileage.
I've now had 2 DR cranks rebuilt by my local fitter/machinist who is not a mechanic. For whatever reason both engines are smoother than the non rebuilt engines I've experienced. He uses a lathe to true them. The cranks may or may not be the reason they're both so smooth, dunno. One outlier is that one is my 790's crank that I took to with an angle grinder to clear the Nova 5th drive gear. The 790 runs smoother than the wife's stocker!
went over to my mates steel shop looking for some scrap for a DR mod.
no better steel, than free steel.
i'm allowed to use all his toys, i just don't know how to use most of em.. ..
@Lil' Steve you'll should get one of these if @cyberdos keeps borrowing your welder to fix his frame stuff..
DR be fixed in no time..
about 700 amp.. good for well I dunno.. this is about 50mm wall thickness..
i think thats nearly cyberdos-proof, DR frame thickness size..
and also today, in other pointless news, my sister is looking after mum for 24 hours.
so i lined up a new bike to borrow for 24 hours..
treat myself, as i don't ride much atm.
i used to be a harley guy with a DR,
then i became a harley and a DR guy..
but what am i now..??
after picking up this new you beaut harley, that doesn't even look like a harley..
with the new big 114 engine, new suspension, and new frame design.. blah blah..
you ride it for 15 minutes and then go back home, park it,
put the DR back together so you can take it out, because you realise you have limited ride time and the DR is a more smile per mile ride..
think i got old and changed..
how does that happen..
you blokes in this thread are a bad influence..
The bike felt the same through the middle, and in experimentating with jetting the last main jet change I'd made had resulted in a pretty crappy top end so now it is healthily pulling through speeds it previously was failing over at.
Jdub here we are, to correct you, i drive the hack only in months with less than 5 degress, don`t know the right term, i mean when it is freezing.
Happy to have you back safe and infected by the alps, next time we do Corsica.
Here some more pictures, the SE died two days bevore, have to look for it. Replacement is this DR 600 from 1993, was driven sinc 1995 and now back on the road with 25 K kilometers. Plus our hack or wandering circus feeding the people. Hans
And Troy Bayliss’s V8 Supercar at PI when it withdrew due to a broken fan belt. It only broke when the crankshaft broke free from the block and shifted forward!
Not sure if you've posted before but pretty cool to see the DR thread connecting people. Welcome.
Way back when: These guys would eye ball the crank half's,press them together and use a big brass hammer/mallet along with a dial indicator jig set up to get it right.Ya they would just hold the crank in one hand and then whack it with the brass hammer/mallet,it only took them a few minuets to get it right.
That's how you do it. The press jig makes for less pounding.
Modern 2-strokes have sheet metal 'cans' around the crank wheels. You can't beat on those so you have to stick it together accurately right off the bat.