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Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by WileyRTW, Nov 2, 2020.
You plan to go to Surf City El Salvador?
I don't speak howler....pretty sure they are saying "turn back, this place is cursed, death is coming"....
or just "get off the ruins gringo!"
I liked this guy, he was wild, but once the branch snapped he paused to contemplate his decisions.
No, at this time I am only going to travel in Mexico, though that is the 1 country in C. America I have not yet been to, so it is on my list! I will be reappropriating my travel funds for another use so will be cutting the trip somewhat short soon.
Maybe something is wrong with me, but today was my favorite in Mexico thus far. Chiapas roadblocks.
Well, that sucks. Is that Palenque to San Cristobal?
Yup, but it was actually fun since I was on a moto, would suck for a car/truck, as there no way to get through at all for them. I was adamantly told I couldn't pass at the 1st block, but joked around and didn't make a big deal of it so the old man changed his mind and let me pass after a few minutes. It was hairy getting through as it was tight, so I wasn't sure I could even get through anyway. Then I was naïve enough to think that was the only blockade, but it went on for 50kms, probably 20-30 roadblocks, some easy some intense, plus fires in the road, boulders everywhere, and people all over the road....plus the occasional big rig parked across it.
I pulled up to one and saw no way through, so rolled backwards and started talking to the guys, who said they would push. Problem was I would have to go down a cement ditch that was slanted 45 degrees, while ducking a tree that I don't even know Churro can fit through. They insisted, so we went for it. The windshield and mirror were too tall but pushed ahead and squeezed through. I then gave them a thumbs up for the help, stalled, and gave them a thumbs down. We all laughed. Most of the other blockades I received cheers from everyone, it was never hostile in any way.
you visited Oaxaca city already, or you missed it ?
You can stay at home, if you want.
Yeah I went for a couple days when passing through, and as Semana Santa was approaching it was better then the previous times as it was full of vendors, color, and life, more so than normal. I will probably hit it up again on the return, though may stick to the beaches instead I am still deciding. I have been several times, I really enjoy Oaxaca.
Where does the name ...el Churro... come from? I tried google translate because it has a Spanish pattern , and it translates to “fritter”. How does that fit ?
And you hinted at an end to this ride. I can see money running low, since you have been under way for a while, but what’s next ?
Great report. I will miss this one.
Looks like the same road @Jamie Z went thru just recently.
So this post will be brief since it is a sin to talk about surf spots. After going to the beach and not surfing, I decided I needed to return to Zihua a few weeks later, as there are surf spots along the coast within a few hours. The end.
Ok, so really I didn’t even surf this time either, I just explored the beaches along the coast. I checked out the other beaches in the Zihua area, and then headed South to do more of the same. I didn’t really have a plan, but figured I would turn around before hitting Acapulco, as I don’t read great things about it. Once I got to the Acapulco area I change my mind, as I usually do, and figure I should check it out, so decide I will stop for a night. Well, I don’t love it, but I also don’t hate it, and it is a stop I am glad I made. I end up staying 4 or 5 nights since the hotel was cheap, and as usual I can bring the bike inside. The food wasn’t super great, but I feel that way about most of the food I have found thus far on the coast, but you can never go wrong with fish tacos or shrimp, so it wasn’t bad either.
The centro is a bit worn down, not a whole lot to see as it is mostly commercial junk stores, but it is right near the beach and the hotels here seem to be cheaper than where the high rise buildings are, so I setup shop there. I don’t care about the cliff divers, but walked over to check that area out and see the sunset. The divers schedule has changed due to covid, so I don’t catch them anyway as I don’t feel like hanging around for an extra hour just to see them. They do have stadium seating a bit further to enjoy the sunset, which is pretty sweet, so I hit that up before returning to the hotel.
Another time I walk along the beach up to where all the bars are….though I forget the area now, but it is a nice section of town, and the bars are full of party goers risking covid the outside tables. They also have these Disney like themed carriages, with lights and Mexican music playing. Churro only trusts me behind the handle bars, otherwise I would pay someone to drive churro around Mexico while towing me, playing sweet Mexican tunes, an impossible dream.
Only an idiot would be caught dead in one of these……
From here I turn around and head back towards Zihua hitting other beaches I had not stopped at on the way down. The hotel I stay at this time is a bit weird, I am the only 1 there, and the guy in charge dislikes hanging around so he locks me in and has me text him when I want to leave or return while he hangs out just down the street. This is no problem, but gets annoying fast, though I like having the place to myself and blast my music while chilling in the pool.
1 day when after breakfast I returned to my hotel only to realize my wallet was gone. I run back to the food stand I had eaten at knowing it fell out of my pocket where I was sitting, these board shorts were bought in Panama 10 years ago, so they are missing the button which closes them, but they are nice board shorts so I just deal with it. I get back to the stand and see the wallet is not on the ground, but when I ask about it they point me to a woman who is pulling it out of her purse. I was relieved to have my ID and cards back since it would have been a pain to get new ones, but luckily had enough money locked in my pannier bags to get back to Morelia and take care of it had I needed to. What really surprised me was when every single peso had been left in the wallet…I kind of assume and expect someone to take themselves a finders fee in these situations, but not this time, she didn’t want one.
I then went up the Michoacan coast, finally putting this tent to use a few more nights. I stopped at some more random beaches, one of which was absolutely covered in turtle tracks. I didn’t see any turtles, but there must have been a hundred nests….and since this is the time they hatch I suspect there were still eggs in many of them. I also hit some more autodefensa groups at some of the small town entrances. Once again they had no problem with me at all, and I got a few thumbs up or smiles due to Churro. Many autodefensa are now registered with the govt. but many have chosen not to go that route, which makes for a strange situation. As I was leaving a Pemex a man turned his head and pulled his jacket up over his face the instant he saw my camera. Since Michocan can be a bit rough, I am unsure if he was autodefensa, or just a bad guy who didn’t want to be seen, but nothing ever came of it.
Unlike Ixtapa, Michoacan is heavily protected by the locals, they don’t allow you to just go in and buy land on the coast, and there are no resort towns anywhere to my knowledge. Much of the coast is hard to get to, but it is beautiful and I hope there never are resort towns put in which will only ruin things there. After leaving the state I stopped at a beach in Colima, and wanted to puke. While it wasn’t necessarily a resort town, it did have hotel after hotel with big walls making it impossible to see the beach, and many of the hotels had water slides and other crap…..wtf no thanks. I eventually cut inland to head back to Morelia. The city of Colima is slightly inland, and has a volcano towering over it. It is on my list, but I have not yet made it there only seeing the volcano from a distance, so I will see what I can do next time I am out that way, but it was an impressive sight for the drive.
2 great posts thanks for the photos!
How's the ocean temps?
Keep Churro chugging!
The world is still full of good, honest people like the lady that returned your wallet with all your money intact.
Water temps are around 82F I believe, which is fantastic since it is around 63F right now back in San Diego.
So the Monarch butterflies have been on my list for awhile, but you need to be in Michoacan at the right time of year, and I finally was, so away we went. Headed off to Angangueo which is one of the nearest town which has hotels/restaurants to check out the butterflies. Angangueo is a nice small town, fairly empty due to covid, so I do not know if it would normally have a tourist vibe to it or not. Things were cheap, calm, and there was a walking path that led up to a viewpoint. From the viewpoint, there were a set of stairs, so I figured hey why not. Well the why not….is they go on forever, then when you get to the end of the stairs, there is nothing there as they are still building the rest, so now I had to traverse a steep difficult trail and had left Churro behind. Once I started there was no way I was giving up so I continued on, and eventually I found some sort of shrine at the top. From there a small trail continued onto a cross, which I took a picture of just to prove I am not a wuss, I will NOT BE DEFEATED!!!$@. Feeling like I had accomplished something great, I returned to the bottom only to find out most of the towns people walk up this at least once a year for some religious thing, INCLUDING the old men and women….wow, I am impressed.
Little did I know but apparently the governor had announced they were shutting down all of the butterfly sanctuaries, along with a bunch of other stuff the day after I went, though I was oblivious to this at the time so was lucky to make it before the shutdown. The only downside to this, was the number of tourists trying to check the butterflies out was higher than normal as they also wanted to get in before they were shutout …and you know how I feel about tourists. The monarchs are fragile little creatures, and you are supposed to keep quiet when observing the butterflies as the monarchs do not like loud noises so it disrupts them or something, I don’t care enough to look it up. You are also supposed to refrain from touching them, as this will also kill them. Of course, there were plenty of loud idiots ignoring the signs to remain quiet, and plenty of idiots trying to touch the butterflies as well. It was a beautiful day up in the mountains so I did the best I could to ignore the idiots, and managed to enjoy the butterflies despite them. Personally Churro and I enjoyed the ride out to the area more than the butterflies themselves, but it was still a cool experience though not the most action packed.
Headed back to Morelia there was a stopover in Zitacuaro, holy cow this place was shut down for covid in ways I had not yet seen here in Mexico. Arriving on a Sunday afternoon it was nearly a ghost town, every single store/restaurant was closed, barely anyone was outside, and it took a few tries to find a reasonable hotel that could arrange a pizza delivery to make sure I was fed. But once again it was smoke and mirrors, just trying to look like they were taking things serious, the very next day the the streets were packed and the city was open for business again as things only shut down Sunday. I ate some food, and there was a lot of the same old junk being sold, I kind of liked it here though there is no real reason to come here, so it is probably a 1 time stop over.
This area of Michoacan is beautiful but it is also full of topes. Eventually the crap shock I have been complaining about from the beginning had finally had all it could take, and started leaking oil loosing what little suspension I previously had, bottoming out on every tope. We limped back to Morelia a bit defeated, even skipping the mil cumbres route since Churro just couldn’t handle the adventure today…but overall the trip was a great time. Now, to get my hands on a new shock, admittedly I was not really upset since the shock had sucked so much, but it would not be cheap/easy to replace….and also meant Churro would need to be parked in the stable for a bit, and he hates it in there.
Super update just when I think you are finished you pop up again Que Bueno!
Don't worry, I still have plenty of catching up to do, but am also renting a place so the traveling is def slowing down.
Have some time to check this out, in now in ES.I