The G650 GS Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by LarryGee, Jan 29, 2012.

  1. ZanderMan

    ZanderMan Needs monitoring

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    Thanks for the feedback and the torque specs. I’ve removed the front fender for the time being while I stare at it and research aux lights. Some of the ones folks are running are big $$$ and I’m not sure I’m in that deep.

    I basically want to increase daytime visibility as I’m not planning to ride at night all that much but still want good forward performance with some side illumination for deer and such.
  2. Motopsychoman

    Motopsychoman Not a total poseur Supporter

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    This is the link I was thinking of https://advrider.com/f/threads/the-650-dakar-thread.441434/page-1812#post-40710174
  3. Motopsychoman

    Motopsychoman Not a total poseur Supporter

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    Curious, but did the starter keep kicking on randomly? Could you hear it spinning?
  4. underontop

    underontop Been here awhile

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    No. The starter never engaged regardless of key position. Just turning ignition on, nothing. Turn ignition off, dash lights all come on then off. Next time, ignition on, dash lights up, ignition off, dash stays lit up...etc
  5. Motopsychoman

    Motopsychoman Not a total poseur Supporter

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    Sounds kind of like what I'd expect a failing starter relay to do. Thanks for the info.
  6. Gravel Seeker

    Gravel Seeker Old, growing older.

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    Yes!

    It's a fork brace first. A mounting point for a low fender second.
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  7. WayneC

    WayneC Long timer

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    There is so much twisting force on the brace that they have been known to break in hard off road use so they are rather important for rigidity of the forks, they are also not as strong as you may believe, at least one of the after market braces with lower guard is stronger as became obvious in the early GS axle lug failures
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  8. Gravel Seeker

    Gravel Seeker Old, growing older.

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    Why didn't you say that straight away? :lol3

    Yes, there are aftermarked braces that are just a piece of flat steel. The shape means nothing other than strengthening the stock aluminium brace probably. Triangle is the strongest shape after all - doubt it has anything to do with airflow.
    Case in point I have run USD forks w/o a brace now for 5 years with no effect on cooling.

    The brace will severely strengthen the forks and the engineers among us will probably correct me or explain it better than this, but I'm fairly certain the brace will make each leg stronger/ stiffer by a factor of more than 2, since you halve the lever as well as connect the legs to one another.
    I would imagine the largest forces on the that poin is not from braking, but rather hitting a pot hole or absorbing a heavy landing.

    I'll add one of my famous illustrations :D
    upload_2021-9-28_9-47-17.png
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  9. Gravel Seeker

    Gravel Seeker Old, growing older.

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    GS911 is not $800.
    I have an ebay search and the pop up for $300-400 once a month (for the red wifi version. The old yeallow USB version is cheaper - don't buy one that has the version number in the name - that are Chinese copies and cannot be updated and probably can't even do all the things a real one can do)
    Here's one with a round plug in the US: $399
    Here's one with OBDII in the US: $299
    I think you can use the OBD2 one too, but you'll need a $30 adapter to the round plug on our bikes.
    Not sure if you need the male or female adapter, but the 911 seller also sells the adapters.
    Refer Hexcode to see which one you can use
  10. Gravel Seeker

    Gravel Seeker Old, growing older.

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    Probably was me, but it was more of a cleaning session than a rebuild. I had to order a new switch. Wasn't that dear (€30 I think) and fixed the issues I had.
    Those were that the power would fail as I hit the starter button and also sometimes after it had started as I "reversed" out of parking spot for instance. I traced it to the wires at the bottom of the ignition after a while as this problem gradually worsened over a few months. One day it died and didn't recover until I put continued side-pressure on the lower part of the ignition. A handful of zip ties made it to where I had a permanent side pressure situation that allowed me to ride home from work.

    Therefor I was also thinking ignition switch, but there are a couple of thing's I don't understand, mainly how it seem to have power for 2-3 seconds after it's keyed off. Even if there was a disconnect inside the barrel so that the key and switch is no longer moving in sync, I cannot readily explain how it would then lose power after 3 seconds. In my case it would not get power when the key was on turned on because of all the grime that had built up inside the switch. The grime had effectively turned into a grinding paste that had worn down the switch terminals so that it longer made contact so cleaning it didn't help either.
    Note that I had sprayed multi lube (WD40 type stuff) down the key hole previously when the key started to be hard to turn. That probably fueled the formation of the grinding paste situation.

    I also noted his/her location and thought about what my switch looked like inside when I removed it. There are two small screws underneath to removed the ignition switch from the key/ lock barrel. I unplugged it in the electrical box and brought it all over to a work surface to make life a little easier.

    Here are the pics again.
    The switch pulls out of the housing with no effort, just cut the little zip tie holding the cable.
    [​IMG]

    Splitting the switch requires lifting of plastic tabs. I broke one of mine.
    [​IMG]

    The mating surfaces inside the switch were covered in grime made up of dust, water, corrosion and WD40 over 8-10 years.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    After cleaning, but it didn't help. Think the paste had worn down the metal to much.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
  11. Singulano

    Singulano Been here awhile

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    I've done this cleaning ignition job once a year (three since I bought my bike). Probably too much umidity in my garage. Not easy, but easier when you already checking the steering head bearings
  12. BlueRidgeTiger

    BlueRidgeTiger Adventurer

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    I see....Well I did the VIN lookup on the Hexinnovate website last night to find the "right" GS911 for my 650 and after entering my VIN# in, it said my only option was the "GS911Wifi" for $749... I've seen the ones for $299 and $399 but that is still more than I want to pay for a scan tool. Might look around for some open source options or hit up my software engineer buddy down in Lexington since he works on some automotive software.... Its not like Loncin and the CCP didnt already steal the software when they built the bike for the Bavarians :-)
  13. WayneC

    WayneC Long timer

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    I will bring the result on the Hex Innovate web site to their attention as is is wrong, as for calling GS911 a "scan toll" that is the wrong way to look at the GS911, it is not a "Scan Tool", it is a Diagnostics Tool, scan tools are low cost rubbish which cant do the diagnostics routines proprietary to the manufacturers, there are no open source tools available which can do what GS911 does, the nearest competitor is MotoScan and it is a poor product in comparison to the GS911

    Loncin & the CCP did not steal the software or anything else from BMW, Loncin assembled engines for BMW & licensed the BMW modified Rotax for domestic sales with Bosch ECU's not Hella or Magneti Marelli & are now selling into Europe with licencing revenue to BMW
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  14. Tundra Tom

    Tundra Tom XLR8

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    Yo Zander,
    These ignite series from Rigid are durable, small and very bright. I have this set on my Bandit and larger Rigid's on my Sertao.
    Honestly these have proven more reliable than Denali's I had on my F-650 for far less cash. Obviously there are a butt ton of choices out there, just my experiences.
    https://www.rigidindustries.com/ignite-landing-page
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  15. ZanderMan

    ZanderMan Needs monitoring

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    Very nice, thanks for the recommendation!

    I think these have crossed my path once or twice, used as ditch lights on 4x4s.
  16. Motopsychoman

    Motopsychoman Not a total poseur Supporter

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    +1 on lights from Rigid. I've had SR series lights on both my bikes for years now (they didn't have the Ignites when I bought mine). Small, bright, very rugged.
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  17. LunarFirefly

    LunarFirefly Nerd on two wheels

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    Sorry it took a bit to reply. Been really busy and just got a chance to take a couple pictures today.

    20210930_170217.jpg 20210930_170224.jpg

    It feels like it leans more than yours does, @ZanderMan

    This is the standard G650GS. I also just checked the tire pressure. It was pretty low, and after filling it, it felt a bit more stable. But it still feels like it wants to tip to the left and tip over the kickstand.

    I'm gonna go through the stuff on that link @Motopsychoman and see if anything looks weird. But based on the pictures, what are your thoughts? Does this look normal?

    Thanks for the help!
  18. Motopsychoman

    Motopsychoman Not a total poseur Supporter

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    Can you take a couple more pictures: one closeup of the sidestand and one closeup of the pivot tab that's welded to the lower subframe. Either or both could be bend somewhat.
  19. Motopsychoman

    Motopsychoman Not a total poseur Supporter

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    @pfettig77 just went through this https://advrider.com/f/threads/the-g650-gs-thread.760254/page-625#post-42867741
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  20. Gravel Seeker

    Gravel Seeker Old, growing older.

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    The lean on these (all of them) are absolutely tragic, but from the pics I think it looks like a pretty standard lean angle.
    Have you tried to pull on the bike from the left side to check how tippy or stable it actually is?
    They tend to go a little light on the front right when you load them up with a lot of luggage on the rear (probably from the pivot point of the side stand which is fairly far forward, but one tip it to load the right pannier first and empty it last if you are carrying a large load.
    Or just mod the stand or relocate it. Info on crossroadz.com.au and in the BMW 650 threads.
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