The Grand Tour of a Small Kingdom.

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by Don T, May 31, 2020.

  1. Don T

    Don T Roaming Viking

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    Prologue:

    Since I picked up my first bike almost 30 years ago, I’ve rarely missed an opportunity to travel on two wheels – always seeking out new countries and places to satisfy my wanderlust. In my yearning for adventure I’ve had a tendency to focus on destinations as different and far away from home as possible.

    2020 would have been no different if not for the corona virus that made traveling abroad impossible – or at least very problematic.

    At first it frustrated me, as my girlfriend @Katrine and I had to cancel a couple of planned trips. But as I always try to see the glass as half full, I soon started to focus on what we could do instead of what we couldn’t do. The answer was obvious – the time had come to explore our own little corner of the world: The small kingdom of Denmark.

    We decided to prepare for and execute the trip as we would have done for a similar trip abroad. That meant reading up on history and culture, finding interesting things to see and places to visit, and last but not least – locating nice routes and tracks.

    Based on routes and tracks I collected from various sources I created a scenic 4.000 km track through the country. We wouldn’t necessarily stay on the track, but rather use it as a guideline as the journey progressed – leaving room for improvisation.

    The track that I uploaded to my GPS:

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    Even though we were looking forward to this trip, it was difficult at first not to see it as kind of a substitute for a “real” motorcycle trip. As the preparations progressed and we learned more about our own country our enthusiasm for the trip grew, but still - how “adventurous” can it be to ride around your own backyard?

    As it turned out, the answer to that question is: Very!

    We ended up having one hell of a ride. It included everything I love about motorcycle trips – great riding, beautiful scenery, interesting new places, good company, delicious food, beer and a bit of adversity to put things in perspective.

    It was such a great experience that I’ve decided to take you along for the ride and show you some of what Denmark has to offer.

    Besides doing this RR I’ll also create and share my take on the “ultimate” route around Denmark, based on the tracks I’ve collected, the one I made previous to the trip and the one we ended up riding. I’ll attach it as a GPX file to the epilogue of the RR.


    To be continued...
    #1
  2. Deuce

    Deuce Crazy Canuck

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    :beer:lurk
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  3. Dessert Storm

    Dessert Storm Dances With Drunks

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    Firs...…….. damn, Second!

    In.
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  4. Vato Jinete

    Vato Jinete Feo del Norte Supporter

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  5. bigboyxl

    bigboyxl Been here awhile

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    I’m so in and subscribed into this new RR series :clap
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  6. Don T

    Don T Roaming Viking

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    The 8th of May, on a beautiful spring morning, we set out to explore our Small Kingdom:
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    The first 3 days we followed the track around Zealand and The Southern Island. This is the part of the country we have called home for the last 25 years and know like the back of our hands – or so we thought. As it turned out, we happened upon several roads and places we had never seen before. We spend the nights with friends and family along the route.

    Tystrup Lake:
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    Sorø Academy – the gatehouse from 1160 is the oldest inhabited building in Denmark today:

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    If you are into old churches you’ll love Denmark as we have more than 2.000 of them scattered all over the country in every style imaginable:

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    Forskov on Asnæs:

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    The northwestern coast of Zealand

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    Besides churches the countryside is also dotted with historical castles and manors – this one is Torbenfeld:

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    Munkholm Bridge:

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    The rapeseed fields were in bloom:

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    We travelled on the small scenic roads:

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    Fredensborg Palace where the Queen lives most of the year:

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    - where we chatted with a family on bicycle vacation. Nice ride:

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    Kronborg Castle (made famous by Shakespeare’s Hamlet):

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    Waiting for the train to pass near Brede:

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    A short break at Brede Works:

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    Roskilde Cathedral - the main burial site for Danish Monarchs since the 15th century:

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    Roskilde also have a great Viking Ship Museum, but we have visited it several times before and skipped it this time around...

    Another blooming rapeseed field:

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    Although the first days riding consisted mostly of tarmac, we managed to squeeze in a bit of gravel:

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    Giesegård:

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    Vallø Castle:

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    Gjorslev Castle:

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    Early evening after a long day in the saddle:

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    Stevns Lighthouse:

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    Højerup Old Church – part of the church was claimed by the sea back in 1928:

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    The new church in Højerup:

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    At Bregentved:

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    More gravel:

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    Vordingborg Castle Ruin:

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    Yet another blooming rapeseed field:

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    Queen Alexandrine Bridge:

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    Nice gravel road through the forest near Møns Klint:

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    Scenic views on Møn:

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    The dam that connects Møn with Bogø:

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    “Ida” is the world’s oldest oak hull ferry still in service. We used it to get from Bogø to Stubbekøbing on Falster:

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    A bit more gravel along the east coast of Falster:

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    Rural Lolland:

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    King Svend's Mound – a passage grave that dates back to 3200 BC:

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    The track from day 1-3 (986 km) - Jolly Roger marks our house:
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    To be continued...
    #6
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  7. Saso

    Saso Happily sporting the DRD4 gene Supporter

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    You're such a great tour guide, Tonny! Thanks for taking us along on your ride through beautiful Denmark. I needed a trip like this at the moment. :beer
    #7
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  8. jbar28

    jbar28 Been here awhile

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    Hey Tonny, great to see you two out and about. Love the "trip at home" idea and the positive attitude.
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  9. James59

    James59 Adventurer

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    Thank you. I have been several times to Denmark and was impressed by its civility and the kindness of the people. It is beautiful. I would like to go to the churchyard where they have an old stone with the coat of arms of Denmark on it, I don't know the name of it, but I have read about it. I was last there four years ago when I took a ferry from Goteborg.
    I also had to cancel trips this year-Japan and Ukraine-cost me money....its ok. I am alive.
    tack så mycket
    #9
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  10. DavidM1

    DavidM1 Unicorn hunting

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    That's great. You have loads of amazing Neolithic sites in Denmark.
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  11. Hollyr

    Hollyr Vesterislendingur Supporter

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    :clap So good to see you posting your Staycation! Fantastic pictures. Subscribed (and of course, thinking I should take another trip to Denmark when this is all over.)
    #11
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  12. cidi

    cidi cidi Supporter

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    Just awesome. Beautiful in its very own way. Great weather and everything is so “manicured”. We just spend 4 days riding the New Mexico Backcountry Discovery Route and everything was dusty! Subscribed!
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  13. malloy

    malloy Long timer Super Supporter

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    A grand tour, so far. Some great riding and sights in your world. Thank you for sharing them. :clap:clap:clap
    #13
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  14. neppi

    neppi Been here awhile

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    I’m in!

    I’ve been in Denmark several times, but the last time for me was 1995, which is like a 100yrs ago and seeing these pics makes me wonder why I never got back...

    Thanks for sharing!
    #14
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  15. Gustavo

    Gustavo Motociclista Errante

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    Wow, looks great so far. :ricky Good weather too. Much better than what we've been having here... :dirtdog

    So how was traveling right after the country started opening up? Did you find restaurants were mostly open again, how about finding accommodations?

    Gustavo
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  16. 9w6vx

    9w6vx Adventurer

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    Great RR of Denmark.

    Thanks for sharing!
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  17. Don T

    Don T Roaming Viking

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    We did have fair weather most of the time during the trip, but it still managed to become an issue at one point - we'll get to that later.

    It was a strange time to travel around the country. Much fewer people than usual was out and about.
    No foreign tourists anywhere and during the first 10 days of the trip all restaurants and cafes were still closed which made especially the city centers appear eerily deserted.
    Finding accommodation was never a problem. Most places were still open but because of the closed borders they have had hardly any guests for weeks and welcomed us with open arms (and good offers).
    #17
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  18. James59

    James59 Adventurer

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    You are lucky, a Swedish friend of mine has been stuck in India for four months and cannot get out. He has been on SVT a few time blogging his experience (he is a documentary film maker) and has done a lot of work for SVT.
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  19. Don T

    Don T Roaming Viking

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    In the morning of the 4th day, we reached Tårs and the ferry across the Strait of Langeland.

    The first 3 days of the trip we had enjoyed perfect weather with low wind and temperatures around 20°C (70°F). On the 4th day the wind had picked up and the temperatures hovered below 10°C (50°F) – this cold and windy weather would be our companion for the next several days.

    Waiting in line at the port in Tårs:
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    It was a rough crossing from Tårs to Spodsbjerg

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    From Spodsbjerg we did a small loop on Langeland, before continuing across Tåsinge to Funen – the second largest island in Denmark nestled between Zealand and the mainland Jutland. On Funen we did a clockwise tour of the island to Nyborg, where we stayed at another friend’s place.

    Langeland:
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    Valdemars Castle on Tåsinge (a public road passes right through the castle grounds):
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    Especially the southern part of Funen offers nice curvy roads and idyllic scenery:
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    Our track included several sections of gravel roads:
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    In the evening we took a stroll with our friend - Henrik aka @Leegaard - and his family on the beach – a stone’s throw from their house:
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    The next morning I went down to the beach to take a picture of the Great Belt Bridge that spans 18 kilometers and connects Funen with Zealand.

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    The track from day 4 (331 km):
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    To be continued...
    #19
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  20. Don T

    Don T Roaming Viking

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    Thank you for the feedback so far.
    It's always nice to see that people are actually reading your RR :-)

    If you are curious about anything you see in the RR or about Denmark in general just shoot. I'll do my best to provide an answer.
    #20
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