The Grand Tour. South America in 100 days.

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by muf722, Nov 14, 2017.

  1. muf722

    muf722 Muf

    Joined:
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    The ferryman helping with the push off the ramp. Never easy balancing the heavy bike rolling backwards on dirt.

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    Todays destination was chosen strictly from number of kilometers and location to next days ride. I didn´t check for hotels or anything else. Ending up in Huari was bad. Absolutely no decent accommodation or restaurants. The room I got was dirty, had a bad bed and no other furniture. No bathrooms and the toilet in the yard had no running water. Here I´m having coffee at the towns shopping center of sorts. My stomach is strong but not that strong.

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    My plan today was going 140 km west of the main road and attack the Salar de Uyuni from north, across and then back east. 170 km of salt desert. Reaching this point, I suddenly realize I´m not up for it. Too many unknowns. The lightning storm in front of me, can you ride the salt when wet?, and my stomach telling me to turn around. I end up going to Uyuni without riding the salt.

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    Instead I play around with my drone.
    #81
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  2. muf722

    muf722 Muf

    Joined:
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    All 4K video editting will have to wait until I´m home since the netbook i have is way too slow.

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    Goat/Llama crossing. And scattered rain showers.

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    Going to a small town for lunch is muddy business. The heavy rain from last night have this effect on all dirt road towns. Now I feel I made the right decision by not going for the unknown conditions of the salt.

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    Dakar signs are everywhere. For some reason its the old ones from 2016. Uyuni will be goal town again in mid january 2018
    #82
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  3. muf722

    muf722 Muf

    Joined:
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    In Uyuni, I treat myself to a nice hotel made of salt. Bricks, furniture and the in room art, all made of salt. The salt may be tougher than I thought. The night is mostly spend in the bathroom with the runs. Next day I ask for an extension, but the hotel is full, and I have to move to another hotel. I spend most of this day in bed.

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    Its just before Christmas, and the market has brought in people from afar.

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    Maybe an upgrade to a water cooled GS. Nah, I´ll stick with my air cooled.

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    2 years old and falling apart.
    #83
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  4. Dracula

    Dracula Dust in the wind

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    I enjoy following along :lurk .. maybe one day I'll do something like this, on a Guzzi. :dunno
    #84
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  5. muf722

    muf722 Muf

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    Late afternoon on the second day, and my stomach finally accepts a tour on the salt. I carry less luggage and the sun has come out. Succes.

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    I got the drone this year, so I still don´t know exactly what it can do. I fly it for approx. 45 min.

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    I had fun.

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    After all the mud and now salt, the bike needs a wash. I´m told to go to the edge of town near the prison.
    #85
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  6. muf722

    muf722 Muf

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    From my avatar, I think you can see, that my other bike is a Guzzi. I hope to ride it to Mandello del Lario, italy for the 100 year anniversary.
    #86
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  7. Don T

    Don T Bike Addict

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    ᛏᛅᚾᛘᛅᚢᚱᚴ - Scandinavia.
    Nice ride report - thank you for sharing.

    Forsat god tur :-)
    #87
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  8. muf722

    muf722 Muf

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    Tak Don T

    Jeg har fulgt alle dine ture på din hjemmeside og en af dine RR på denne side er den direkte årsag til at jeg selv fik lyst at prøve med en reportage.
    #88
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  9. Dracula

    Dracula Dust in the wind

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    Nice. I have two Stelvio NTX in my garage. (one needs new clutch - long story here it will help you fall asleep) This after 10 years of GS 1200 that I rode everywhere in US, Canada, and to Alaska. I am thinking in few years ship one Guzzi to Europe and tour all over for few months, I hope to do it. I wish you safe travels and will follow along your ride report.
    #89
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  10. muf722

    muf722 Muf

    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2009
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
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    Car wash is big business in this area, and the 4x4s are waiting in line. The crew will add grease to vital points.

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    As some has pointed out. The fender will not keep the bike from becoming dirty.

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    Leaving Uyuni, you want to pass Potosi which is dirty and dusty and go straight to Sucre which is nice and beautiful.

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    My secure parking in Sucre. Arriving on the 23rd of December, I will take a break and spend Christmas here
    #90
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  11. muf722

    muf722 Muf

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    My nice hotel in an old building. Restored with furniture from museums. Really high score on booking.com.

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    Sucre was Bolivias first capital, and I get to learn a little about its history. The bird is a Condor and you see a lot of them around.

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    Historic center.

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    The declaration of independence. Bolivia has been plagued by dictators, corrupt leaders, loosing wars and is today without a sea connection.
    The present president is thinking about a 4th term even if that has been voted illegal.

    24 December 2017
    I celebrate Christmas eve in Sucre with my family thanks to a conference video call on Skype between Bolivia, Denmark and Australia.

    Since I got the bike out of customs, this is the first rest day where I do not touch the bike.
    #91
  12. muf722

    muf722 Muf

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    Todays route from Sucre to the small town of Samaipata is largely unpaved. A long section to Villa Serrano is copplestoned.

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    Most is dirt. This road is marked as a major route on my paper map.

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    At lunch time, I choose this nice view as a place to warm some food. No villages or houses for hours.

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    Camping equipment coming in handy again. I also need to change the headlight bulb that broke earlier today.
    #92
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  13. muf722

    muf722 Muf

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    My only spare bulb is one I have carried since 2013 from my southern Africa tour. Its slightly bend but functions! I better buy a new one at next service. I can guess it will be dark before I reach Samaipata tonight with todays slow progress.
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    Todays drone flying almost resulted in a drone crash. When going backwards, there´s no anti collision protection and it hit some bushes on the embankment but self recovered. No damage.

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    Going around the next corner, it lost signal and decided to return to home which was now 10 min away. I had to turn around, to abort the auto return.

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    After 5 hours, I follow this river. One more hour of dirt to go.
    #93
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  14. muf722

    muf722 Muf

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    Anyone recognize this young medical student? Ernesto went on a motorcycle tour of south America at this age with a buddy and wrote a RR called Motorcycle Diaries. What he experienced, shaped his political views, and he would become "Che".

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    My route today has been on Ruta del Che. His last hiding place was here in the mountains of Bolivia. CIA learned of his location, and paid to have him killed.

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    La Higuera was the place of the showdown. The bodies were moved some 20 km to Vallegrande to a hidden grave until it was found, building an airport.

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    Vallegrande. On Christmas day and everything is closed. The memorial inside a gate. With an hour of daylight left, I better get a move on, since I still have 120 km to go. When darkness fell, it became dangerous. Large potholes, cows and what not on unlighted roads. Even with my working headlight, its 3rd gear, slow and scary. I promise to myself not to ride in the dark again.
    #94
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  15. muf722

    muf722 Muf

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    The evening in Samaipata is spend with a guy from Holland and a girl from Costa Rica. Next morning in the shower and one of the better looking showerheads I have seen. Common in all countries so far and often with exposed wires.

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    My direction is east. I´ll cover the continent from the Pacific to the Atlantic. Planning to be in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil by new years. The road near Santa Cruz should be paved, but its mostly roadworks and gravel.

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    Rock formations along the way.

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    In Santa Cruz I stop only for lunch. East of Santa Cruz, Bolivia is flat and have a lot of national parks called Area Natural. And the one road going east/west to the border of Brazil. On that road, only small towns and I will take one night in San Jose de Chiquitos.
    #95
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  16. muf722

    muf722 Muf

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    After check in, Joey the owner of the hotel, takes me to another of his hotels in town, so I can use the pool. A 4 star to open in a few months. Homemade waterfall being installed.

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    Joey has been to the USA for education and has 3 children with a selection of women. I forget to return the room key. Its now in the mail.

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    The doctor father, and the head of a resourceful family. He was kind enough to share cheese, wine and other treats with me. I learn of the doctor strike in Bolivia. The government has passed a new law that criminalizes doctors who make errors. Well its human to err, so now they refuse to work.

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    The flat straight road to the border. Joey promise me an easy border crossing, so it should be lunch in Brazil and a chance to get away from the border for the night. Well. It was not to be.
    #96
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  17. Parcero

    Parcero Mundial

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    I think “suicide shower” is the technical term for those electrically heated shower heads.

    I’m loving your report. Unless your postings are late, you’re about two weeks ahead of me but going in the opposite direction.
    #97
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  18. muf722

    muf722 Muf

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    My report hovers around a 10 day delay. Tomorrow I will be in Foz do Iguacu. Border to Argentina.

    So where are you?
    #98
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  19. Don T

    Don T Bike Addict

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    Any plans of visiting the Dakar Rally?
    #99
  20. Parcero

    Parcero Mundial

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    At the moment I’m in Chicago but will be flying to Mendoza in a week to pick up my moto and begin another stage of my trip, heading north along Ruta 40 into Bolivia.