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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Kommando, Jun 14, 2018.
I think 240 is when this start to get get more dangerous if kept constant, I have mine set for 250
Oh, that's no good. I was at 245ish at some points yesterday - with 70* ambient. Maybe I need an oil cooler sooner than I thought.
Unless it's consistent I wouldn't be too worried. Getting stuck behind a slow moving car will cause my temp to spike but once I'm going at a better speed it drops down. You just don't want high Temps for prolonged periods. If you're not running a big bore and have your ecu flashed for your mods I wouldn't worry
check your headlight shell. one of my Monkey had a rattle and I finally figured out one of the headlight bezel screws fell out. I'm also going to try and figure out how to install a screw or something to help the bezel stay put. Since there are only two screws, and one "clip" at the 12 oclock, it tends to come loose on rough roads, so every ride, over and over.
Thanks for the heads up! I just gave it a once over and sure enough one of my screws was loose. That said, it wasn't the cause of my noise. After way longer than I want to admit, it turned out to be my rear heat shield screw was juuuust loose enough than when in a certain rpm range it would give a rattle. Some loctite and another test ride later, rattle gone. I'm going to keep an eye on the headlight screws though. Thank you!
It's the little things sometimes. Finally got my real tag!
Love the pair of bikes. Big fan of the strom
Me too & owned a pair of them; could never say anything bad about the Wee Strom
So I put on a full Yosh race exhaust. Sounds great, borders on too loud. Wish there was a switch to go back and forth between yosh sound and stock stealth. Anyway “off idle” throttle response and power suck. Mid top power better as far as 8 hp goes. Any solution to low end power/response?
You can always go to a 14t to get back some lower end, but will rob top speed. With this bike you can't have your cake and eat it too. Power mods tend to get you more speed at the cost of bottom end
Time for a 180 build!
for the fun
What are your other mods? Intake? ECU flash?
I just purchased a Yoshimura RS3, and in my pre-purchase research, I found that while the stock ECU can adjust for the exhaust, it still runs slightly lean off idle, then rich through the mid range, and finally leans out again up high. An aftermarket intake exacerbates this. A fuel controller or ECU flash can fix this.
Also, are you running the spark arrestor? Yoshimura told me that the spark arrestor will slightly increase back pressure, which will increase torque at the cost of losing a little up top. It also takes the edge off of the loudness.
Disclaimer: I haven’t installed anything yet and have only basic knowledge about engines and tuning. I just like to research.
Me and a mate ordered a couple of ‘22 Monkeys this week. We’re planning some big trips on them, including a 500 mile south west England trip at the end of October.
Has anyone with a ‘22 changed the exhaust yet, as there’s nothing listed anywhere, so would we be right in thinking the systems for the previous model will fit?
Hope it's ok to post here, I'm going to post on the hondagrom. Net forum too. Since we are a small group I figured it would be better off here than in the flea market , if not, please delete. Trying to fund parts of another build so if anybody needs these things let me know.
Opmid oil temp/battery voltage dash: $75 shipped
Kitaco intake: $50 shipped
Speedo healer: $45 shipped
DHM high compression piston, ran for around 50 miles and just went big bore. $75 shipped.
Kinda interested in the piston. What difference did it make?
Not to turn this into a for sale thread, but I just listed a set of brand new ASV levers in the FM:
It wasn't a HUGE difference like some people claim. Or maybe I just didn't feel it. What it did do was give me back the low end that I lost after I installed my tb cam.
Battery question for you folks: My Monkey needs a new one, it doesn't hold a charge (basically I didn't start it for a quite a few months and failed to put it on the Battery Tender, might have had the key on for a bit, doesn't matter really, now, it's dead. I can charge it up enough to get the bike running, but that's it.).
The manual says Yuasa YTZ5S (about $100 to 128 locally), the Yuasa website says I can also fit a YTX4L-BS (38 to 50 bucks). The YTZ5S is a High Performance AGM, the YTX4L is AGM.
Any thoughts? Thanks!