The Honda XL (and other vintage singles) thread!

Discussion in 'Old's Cool' started by dorkpunch, Jan 18, 2009.

  1. snake89

    snake89 Long timer

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    And now to start on what's left of the parts bike i used to build thats posted on post # 5074. Gonna need a couple of rear brake parts and a seat cover and repair the exhaust pipe but have most everything else. My XL185 2.jpg XL185 muffler 1.jpg XL185 muffler 2.jpg
  2. shinyribs

    shinyribs Thumpers for life

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    Will rear brake parts off a '81 XL500S be any help? I converted mine to disc and have all the original parts sitting on the shelf.
  3. snake89

    snake89 Long timer

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    I dont think they will. I need the brake rod from the pedal and the lever that fits on the brake drum actuator, what the brake rod from the pedal connects to.
  4. shinyribs

    shinyribs Thumpers for life

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    I have everything available except the pedal itself. I reused that. I don't know how to determine what interchanges, but you're welcome to the parts for the cost of shipping.

    I have too much clutter and can't stand the thought of throwing out old bike parts :D
    manx16 and iatethepeach like this.
  5. mjm1441

    mjm1441 n00b

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    New member/prospective xl 250 owner in need of advice! Just went to check out a 1975 xl250 today. It's in good shape and started on first kick! Runs well...Little bit of noise coming from top end, owner claimed it's due for valve adjustment...it also felt a little underpowered. I've spent some time on a friends xl 175 and if memory served me right his bike felt like his 175 had more giddyup than this thing. I will say it was a smooth ride all in all, just expected a big more out of the slightly larger engine. I'm a novice looking for advice from people who know far more than i do! Any advice would be nice!
  6. pommie john

    pommie john Long timer

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    It's very common for the camshaft "bearings" to be worn out in these bikes. The camshaft runs straight into the cylinder head an does'nt have bearings as such.They are prone to camshaft wear too. They don't have a proper oil filter and have quite a small oil capacity so if the owner is a bit slack about checking oil level, they can run low on oil.
    Megacycle do a conversion with a roller bearing cam but it's not cheap and you need to get the head machined to fit it.
  7. Single-Phase

    Single-Phase n00b

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    Where's a good place to get intake/exhaust valves and intake/exhaust valve guides for a 72 XL250? I found this on FB for free and after getting it home and digging in I found the engine was seized from water entering from the carburetor. Bore looks good, no pitting.

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
  8. bultacobill

    bultacobill Long timer

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    Bike bandits
  9. Single-Phase

    Single-Phase n00b

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    They don't list any under OEM parts.
  10. pommie john

    pommie john Long timer

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    You could try www.xlintperformance.com. He's the go to guy for performance parts for XL Hondas. I got most of my engine parts from him.
    aptbldr likes this.
  11. pommie john

    pommie john Long timer

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    aptbldr likes this.
  12. JimRidesThis

    JimRidesThis Local celebrity

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  13. 802

    802 n00b

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    Anyone know if an 1982-83 XL500R ignition coil will work on a 1980 XL500s? I know a lot of parts are interchangeable, but I am not sure if they switched from 6v in those years??
  14. MotoChris521

    MotoChris521 motominded

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    '83 was the XL600R. Totally new bike. '79 to '82 should all be the same.
    802 likes this.
  15. shinyribs

    shinyribs Thumpers for life

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    The 6v DC circuit only controlled lighting, except the headlight. The headlight and ignition are straight AC powered, so the coil isn't affected by that. I'm running my '81 S batteryless like an R.
    802 likes this.
  16. 802

    802 n00b

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    Hey yall,

    I am trying to diagnose some issues on my 1980 XL500s. Picked it up not too long ago for $480, thought after a quick carb rebuild she would be dreamy
    20200703_111517.jpg


    Ended up having some issues getting a full rebuild kit shipped here (stuck in customs from China), so I speed ordered a new pilot jet, needle, and float valve. Those went in smoothly, I cleaned up the spark plug (it was showing signs of running very hot with a white tip), dug out the oil screen, cleaned it up and put fresh oil in.

    After this and some cosmetic things, I gave her a kick expecting to ride off into the sunset. It ended up running exactly the same as before, so here are the symptoms:

    -Will only start at full or half choke
    -Will idle very fast at full choke and then calm down to a reasonable-sounding idle speed at half choke, shuts off with no choke
    -Adjusting the pilot jet seems to make no difference, from all the way turned in to 5 or 6 turns out.
    - Throttle seems like a hair trigger, just a little wrist movement will really wake up the machine, but will quickly bog down if you give it much gas
    -Some backfiring and pops when going from full choke to half choke, and again when moving the throttle

    The mystery for me is that the pilot (air/fuel) screw is not doing much. To me, everything points towards a fuel/air mixture problem. BUT, the carb is VERY clean, the previous owner did an ultrasonic bath, and I have looked all through it now, and I can't see anything being clogged. It runs the same with or without the air filter. I have taken off the carb boot and cleaned where it meets the engine, o-rings look good so I can't imagine its leaking after the carb. A timing issue has crossed my mind but these bikes have no adjustment/tensioner so there's not much I can do, plus if the ODO is correct it only has around 9K miles on it.

    My questions are:

    - Am I missing something crucial in the carb that could need replacing? (I have checked the pumper diaphragm and everything seems to be in good shape)

    - What do these symptoms tell you?

    -Any recommendations for things to try next?

    Thanks!
  17. pommie john

    pommie john Long timer

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    A couple of things to think about.:

    There's an old saying, 50% of carb problems are ignition and 50% of ignition problems are carb. :)

    Check the ignition system first before you try to adjust the carb.

    When the idle mixture screw doesn't do much, look for an air leak.
    Honda-50 likes this.
  18. mrirvs

    mrirvs Adventurer

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    14
    Hi Guys, I'm rebuilding a 350 K1 and now have the top end of the motor stripped. I would like to ask some advice on the condition of the cam journals in the head and also the cam lobe looks like it's rusted at it's high point.

    Pic 1 - the head from the engine strip, those shiny strips in the journals are raised where some material has been worn away. The are very slight but looking at the rest of the journal does it look like it's scrap?

    IMG_20200715_160745.jpg

    Pic 2 - This is a spare head that I was given by someone as one inlet valve was jammed, so that needs looking at, but the journal looks far better that my original? I was told the head has been
    aqua blasted, I assume this wouldn't damage the journal hardening? They look dull compared to a normal shiny looking one :-)

    IMG_20200715_160806.jpg

    Pic 3 - The original cam also has what appears to be rust on one lobe only. Does this mean the hardening has gone and is scrap?

    IMG_20200715_160906.jpg

    Sorry for the barrage of questions but I don't want to miss issues that will be a pain when it's all back together and running.

    Cheers
  19. shinyribs

    shinyribs Thumpers for life

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    If it were mine, I would polish the can lobe with steel wool just enough to remove the rust. The journals don't look horrible. If the cam is not rattling around in the journals I would not worry about it.
    Honda-50 likes this.
  20. mrirvs

    mrirvs Adventurer

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    Thanks shinyribs, that gives me a bit of comfort. The cam doesn't rattle around in those journals, feels snugly located and rotates smoothly. I will dress that lobe with some wool this weekend, coat it with oil and put away in a bag ready for re-assembly. The bottom end of the motor looks good but will definitely test those oilways and give the oil pump a good check over. I bought the bike as a rolling chassis and boxes of bits, below is a picture of the dry build before the tear down started - looks well used and abused so I didn't try to run the motor just checked it wasn't seized etc.

    IMG_5667.JPG
    shinyribs likes this.