The Husaberg 70º FE Adventure Traveler Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Lost Roadie, Apr 18, 2012.

  1. AUSSIEADV

    AUSSIEADV 2wo left foots

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    My FE570 is predominately used for ADV work so due to an inmate here supplying me some parts to build a mini tower, this is a new project.

    F757AB29-36AA-4246-991F-7B80A56BFEF8.jpeg 9A8E4C73-A836-4BE6-9A8A-A78891310A15.jpeg D6F724E3-3138-4369-BD92-A7132A33C70D.jpeg
  2. Colebatch

    Colebatch "Moto Porn"ographer

    Joined:
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    Allow me to throw in my 2c worth

    Desired modes:
    • Gulatech fuel filter tank inlet sock. - OK
    • Zipty fuel filter 20micron - OK
    • HD wheel set: Excel A60 Rims 21/18 Inch, Haan Hubs cush hub rear, HD spokes. - Great product, but as you already have a cush hub its not essential. The OEM Dirtstar rims are pretty decent . But if you have the cash, then as I said, its a beautiful product. If you want to go half way and save some cash, I would keep your blue dirtstar rims and get Haan to jut supply new hubs (cush rear) in blue or black of course, and lace them up with 4mm spokes.
    • Cam chain tensioner: Automatic tensioner Dirt tricks. OK
    • Chain/ sprocket set: Dirt tricks Ironman sprockets 13/49?, Dirt tricks Dome washer, DID 520 VT2 chain. What do you guy's recommend for gearing? Another option is to get DDC sprockets. Thats the guy (Nate) who was at Dirt Tricks and believe was the main guy behind their sprockets, left and started his own business called DDC Racing. He has since improved on the design. Prices are the same in the US. But may be trickier getting them in Europe. I would take a 13 and a 14 (maybe even a 15 for leaving, if you are slabbing it across europe before you hit the dirt) and a 49or50 at the back
    • Brake disks: Motomaster rally 298mm front, Dirt tricks 220mm closed rear. (Need to check if the front brake support this rotor, Colbatch reported he needed to fit a different caliper from Brembo (https://www.instagram.com/p/BUkZSkOhr2K/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link)) The OEM brake disc is 260mm diameter and 4mm thick. the Motomaster is 298mm and 5mm. The smaller OEM caliper wont open wide enough to get a 5mm thick disc inside it. The good news is the bigger caliper is used on many many bikes ... and any bike breaker yard will have one somewhere ... the 640s 690s and 701 and 660 teneres, all the Xchallenges, X Counties, X motos, BMW 650 GS, etc (basically any 600-700cc dual sport bike made in europe in the last 20 +years ) all run that caliper as it is designed for 300mm x 5mm discs that those bikes all run up front. Easiest if you get it from a KTM (or 701 enduro) as you can then get the caliper adapter / bracket that connects the caliper to the WP forks as well ... not totally sure if the other bikes use the same caliper adapter / bracket but I am pretty sure I moved both the caliper and the adapter bracket over from my old X-Challenge. If you have to, its easy enough to get ithe adapter bracket from a KTM dealer (dont try to buy a caliper from a dealer or you will be bankrupt real fast). Again thats all the biggest option ... a compromise option for increased stopping power at less cost is to get a 270mm disc that works with the OEM caliper ... you can get a 270mm disc and adapter bracket for that online quite cheaply.
    • Headlight: Triple clamp moto XL80 combo or Rally screen from Tileman or HDB with 2x BajaDesign lamps (40w Combo/ 80w spot). See my post on the Facebook 70 degree forum - it may be of interest on the lighting topic (https://www.facebook.com/groups/Husaberg70degreeriders/permalink/1412854145554622/)
    • Rear light: Additional rally tail light, Just for some better visability. ok
    • Seat: Custom made (Rayz) or Seat concepts? What are you guy's experience with Seat concepts?
    • Suspension: get it adjusted to the travel weight by Hyper-Pro. good... progressive springs front and rear. Normally adjusting for weight is usually just the rear spring, but I would get them to do the forks too. The WP springs are linear and if you are using the OEM 4CS forks, they have a reputation for being harsh and are not very subtle in soaking up smaller bumps which can be very tiring on a long trip. They are more in their element getting bashed against tree roots at high speed. But I would strongly advise making the bike better able to absorb softer, more common bumps as that really limits exhaustion on long days, and progressive springs & having lower friction fork seals from SKF will help there. Bas in their Alphen shop knows the bike pretty well ;)
    • Chain oiler: Osco manual chain oiler. cool
    • Emergency capacitor (to give you some capacity for the FI system in case of a push start with a flat battery). never tried that... seems to overlap with you wanting the compact jump start battery. Take one or the other. Not everything. You want to pack as light as you can get away with.
    • Oil capacity upgrade: looking into tips and info for this one? More details in the next post. I have some tips, PM me.
    • Cooling upgrade: what temp fan switch do you guys recommend 85°C or 95°C? And keep stock hoses or fit a set of Samco hoses which will also remove the thermostat.. I have kept OEM hoses. Switching to a 85 thermostat.
    • Heated grips, Any recommendations I prefer to run my own choice of grips?. no opinion. I would probably just choose oxford because i know nothing about any other brand
    • Power output: 2xUSB and SAE plug. get a voltmeter too with your USBs ... easy enough to get all in one unit: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/328...hweb0_0,searchweb201602_10,searchweb201603_55
    • Battery: Lithium battery, just to save some weight. Do you guy's have any recommendations?. I have used Shorai in the past (and still have them in my bike), but I am hearing good things about a CHinese brand thats now an OEM supplier to Ducati and KTM, called Skyrich. They dont need a external cell balancing charger as they apparently have internal cell balancing circuitry which means they can be fully charged with a normal trickle charger that every garage from here to Magadan will have. You can get them in NL here: https://www.hefra.nl/docs/webshop.asp?act=catalog&view=sub&cid=6,3&code=285-SKYRICH,AG1630
    • Exhaust: Akrapovic silencer [SXS10450512]. Luxury item but will save a little weight. It would be at the bottom of my wish list... once you have the more important things done, then by all means. But dont prioritise it
    • Service parts:
      • Fork seal doctor
      • Trail jack
      • Jump starter: cables or Battery pack? What would guy's recommend? I have one of those lithium jump starter batteries that iis not much larger than a large phone
    • Spare parts:
      • Brake pads: 2x front and 2x rear.
      • Oil filters: 2x Original 1xMetal oil filter
      • Oil: 2,5L 10W50 Fully synthetic (Putoline ester tech) You will get oil along the way. Its a reasonably generic item. its the specifics that re harder to get. Filters for specific bikes.
      • Air filters: 2x foam filter 3x Filter socks, No-Toil filter cleaner kit.
      • Tires: 1x Tubliss high pressure front 1x Tubliss high pressure rear 1x 21 inch normal tube.
      • Chain clips: 2x sets of DID 520 VT2 fish clips
      • Levers: 1x Clucht 1x Brake
      • Pedals: 1x Brake 1x Shifter. With a scheffelmeier bashplate you have excellent pedal protection ... I would not carry spares of those
      • Rebuild/service kit: 1x Clutch, 1x brakes F+R, 1x levers C + B, 1x rearbrake pump seems excessive
      • Wheel bearings and seals: 2 sets of seals and bearings.
      • Cush hub: set of spare rubbers no need, especially with new rubbers before you go
      • Spark plug
      • Clutch plate kit. You should not have issues if your clutch is new to start with
      • Fuel pump. I would be more inclined to put a good aftermarket one in before you go and not carry it as weight
      • Fuel injector
      • Fuel filters
      • Stator. Sounds too heavy to take as a spare. You cant take everything.
      • Regulator. Same ... no need. Or get a MOSFET one before you go.
      • Wheel/axle: 1x front nut 1x rear nut 1x front spacers 1x rear spacers. personally I wouldnt take spare wheel nuts.
      • Spare nuts and bolts: 2 of each of all common sizes, 1x front sprocket bolt + DT dome washer
    What you havent mentioned is front sprockets. The rear Dirt tricks or DDC will get you to Magadan if new at the start. But the chains and front sprockets will probably need to be changed every 10-12000 km if there is a lot of offroad. Chains are generic (and heavy) and you will get them en route. Front sprockets to fit KTM splines will be gettable in most of the bigger russian cities. But think about where you are likely to run into limits of that 10-12000 km. If its in Russia then OK. If in Mongolia or the Stans ... take one or two. And take a couple of different sizes. 13 and 14 ... use the 14 or even 15 on faster terrain, 13 on more technical terrain ... I dont mean change them every day .... if you have a couple of weeks of long distance simple riding coming up, you sdont want to be on the 13 up front. When heading thru Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan, then I would have a 13 up front. So think about what sprocket to have with a view towards what you will need most in the next say 3 weeks. If you rotate sprockets this way, and you have a few in your kit, then you wont need to change them every time you change the chain. Just make sure the chain length you have will cover the ranges of sprockets you want to use.


    Current luggage setup:
    • 21 Brothers rogal 40L (polish copy of the gaint loop) with 2 bottle holsters at the back This is where packing light and not taking too many spares comes into it. Have a think about how much you plan to take and how much volume it will take up. Then tihnk what luggage you want to take. There are a lot of pros and cons. In my view the GL over the seat stuff (or 21 Bros clones) are useful for short trips. The #1 downside is that almost all the weight is carried at or above seat height. the #2 is they are not that waterproof. If you want to stay rackless, in same size or larger then go for luggage that site BELOW seat height. i would look at Xcountry 20 or 25 litres per side bags, or Kriega OS base platform with 18 litres per side and small roll bag at the back. If you want larger then you will have to go with a rack. And you know which racked bags I would recommend.
    • Tool box at the bashplate, +-2,5L Fill it full of heavy stuff like tools and brake pads. It will get wet and occasionally muddy in there so dont put stuff in there that wont take a mud soaking. No wheel bearings there
    • Fjällraven Bergen 30L backpack Try and keep weight off your back ... you want to be as nimble as possible on those footpegs. Small daypack sized backpack with water bladder in there is as big as I would go. Again Kriega make some good products there
  3. Dualsport4ever

    Dualsport4ever Been here awhile Supporter

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    Pretty sure that was more than 2c! :lol3. Lots of excellent info there Walter. One note, with my Scheffelmeier tool box bashplate I put the contents in a small dry bag. Seems to work very well keeping out mud and water.
    Colebatch likes this.
  4. samvspr

    samvspr Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2017
    Oddometer:
    12
    Walter,
    Thank you for the excellent feedback.
    The akrapovic exhaust is indeed a nice to have item but not on my priority list.
    I have seen the ddc sprockets but didn't found any suppliers in the EU, so for that reason sticked to the dirt tricks. Front sprocket i indeed need to add to spare parts list, and I was in doubt about the two or three sizes but it indeed will improve the more high speed sections, only need to check if the 15 tooth will fit with the clutch protector.
    For the spare parts I took it a bit to the overkill side because current plan is to travel solo haven't found a travel partner yet and ratter prefer to keep the bike running with 1kg of extra parts than to be stuck in the middle of nowhere and need to wait multiple days on replacement parts. Also saw Lyndon had them with him for Basil on his rtw trip. Other option is to have them ready to ship at my parents house and let them send it to the next big city when I have the feeling they start to wear.
    I know that for the luggage I need to keep it light, compact, have been inspired by the rolling hobo but for a trip of this distance I prefer a bit of additional comfort in the way of a two person tent and some spares just to be safe. But for the rest planning on keeping it to a bare minimum, everything I carry on the shorter trips at the moment I'm able to fit in the current setup.
    For the luggage I choose the reckless system to save weight and because I didn't found any proper racks for the husa, I will have a look into the Xcountry, I expect the kriega's will be to small but maybe it is good to give them a try at one of the Dutch suppliers.
    I choose a bit larger backpack so I can also use it for a day/weekend trip off the bike.
  5. AUSSIEADV

    AUSSIEADV 2wo left foots

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    The jump starter wont keep the bike running as the bike wont put a charge back in. It will eventually go flat. The jumper cable has a diode to prevent this. You fit the capacitor then jump start.

    The ZipTy is 10 micron. They run the OEM 20 micron cone filter as a ‘rock catcher’ at the inlet side.

    13/50? Not enough for a 570!
    octopusenvy likes this.
  6. AUSSIEADV

    AUSSIEADV 2wo left foots

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    Oh and the OEM muffler can be modified to be a straight through. Even a LEXX will work fine.

    Get a piggy back controller to get your fuelling corrected.
  7. AUSSIEADV

    AUSSIEADV 2wo left foots

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    A backpack can be used to carry volume instead of weight. Considering you may be doing alot of sitting, you adjust the straps so the pack is resting on the rear of the bike or luggage.
    samvspr and Dualsport4ever like this.
  8. samvspr

    samvspr Adventurer

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    I can not completely follow your story on the jump starting, this normally always works because you just hook up a secondary battery (from another bike/car or an external 12v battery pack).

    The capacitor option they normally use for the KTM exc models to be able to Kickstart them if you have a flat battery. https://therollinghobo.com/2016/12/tps-tool.html
    But I thought it could also be handy for the fe if you want to try push starting it.

    You are right on the zipty filter I thought they where both 20micron but just a bigger surface but it is the small 20micron filter and then the big 10micron.

    I think 13/50 or 49 is the best overall combination, but on the Kazakhstan and Rusia sections their will be a lot of long distance flat gravel roads and then the bigger front 14 or 15 gives you some more top speed and it will prevent you from running high revs for long periods.
  9. samvspr

    samvspr Adventurer

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    The akrapovic was meanly for the looks and a bit of weight savings, the 570 has already enough power in its stock form.

    I would rather stick with original ECU and maybe let this be updated to the competition map than adding additional electronics this only increases the risk of failures.
  10. AUSSIEADV

    AUSSIEADV 2wo left foots

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    yeah whatever suits mate. The main purpose of running the piggyback is to correct the lean condition from the factory.
  11. AUSSIEADV

    AUSSIEADV 2wo left foots

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    No different with our Bergs. If the battery dies, you need something to start the bike with hence the jump starter. We dont have a kick starter. Once it is going you need something to keep it going, hence the capacitor.

    The jump starter loom has a diode fitted which means the bike wont charge the jump starter up. What happens is the fuel injection will consume the power remaining in the starter. When that runs out, you are back to square one, flat battery. Only use the jump starter to start the bike, the capacitor to keep it running.

    once again gearing can be a personal thing. Gearing down too much can be counterproductive. For me, 13/50 is going too far for the likes of a 570 and ill do some rocky deep single track.
    samvspr likes this.
  12. AUSSIEADV

    AUSSIEADV 2wo left foots

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    Just to add, the jump starter allows you to use the electric starter.
    samvspr likes this.
  13. AUSSIEADV

    AUSSIEADV 2wo left foots

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    I cant remember how many times ive used the jump starter. Many times because charging the phone flattened the battery enough it wouldnt start. A couple of weekends ago every morning the battery didnt have enough in it to start the bike. I plug the jumper in, hit the start button and away it goes!

    294FD285-C05D-48A1-90AC-AD64F37A0CD0.jpeg
    SuperD!, Colebatch and samvspr like this.
  14. samvspr

    samvspr Adventurer

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    Thanks for the great feedback now it is clear for me, with regards to the capacitor and the jump starter leads did you bought something of the shelf or is it a home built kit?
    Would be interested in the details.

    And for the jumpstarting power do you use a battery pack or just the power of another bike?
  15. AUSSIEADV

    AUSSIEADV 2wo left foots

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    I bought the jump starter solely for the bike. I removed the aligator clamps and fitted eye terminals so it is permanently fitted.

    ive just bought off AliExpress another set of aligator clamps/loom to mount on another of my Bergs so its just a matter of plugging it in and starting. This is the jump starter im using for the bike. Don’t believe the mah rating. Thats bullshit. So this is what you use to get the bike running. No car or other bike etc.

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Hot-200...hash=item3fcc97b70c:m:mv2EgLCGwOzm-GVrSdCFAUQ

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/328...chweb0_0,searchweb201602_1,searchweb201603_55
  16. AUSSIEADV

    AUSSIEADV 2wo left foots

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  17. AUSSIEADV

    AUSSIEADV 2wo left foots

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  18. tileman

    tileman Long timer

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    Also use some spacers at your bottom LED mount and make some small steel lengths of plate to make a left and right hand mount for your screen. Using a solid rod I sent cut to length as I posted in the other thread that'll stop the screen moving vertically. Hope the thought makes sense.
  19. AUSSIEADV

    AUSSIEADV 2wo left foots

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    Yes it does, thanks mate.
  20. Baggi'tard

    Baggi'tard If I don't answer I'm ridin' or shootin' Supporter

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