The KLX140G Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by LostInPA, Nov 2, 2016.

  1. LostInPA

    LostInPA Professional American

    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2016
    Oddometer:
    1,274
    Location:
    Central PA
    Hey,

    I want to get a thread going for the new Kawasaki KLX140G to share info and mods. I picked one up and I'm loving it. I think this has great potential as a play bike, learner bike and tinker bike, trail basher.

    It's not an MX bike, hard Enduro bike or XC bike and doesn't pretend to be. It's a straight up adult size trail / play bike that comes in at MSRP $3699 US, and I got mine for just over $3K before tax, reg, dealer fees, etc. Money-wise it seems a great value if you are interested in this type of bike.

    Hopefully this bike takes off and others join the club. But if not, maybe ten years from now this thread will help some other guy who picks one up. :-) Links to technical posts and parts info, etc. below this video.



    Post Index: direct links to posts with technical or mod info:

    Download Free Owner's Manual in PDF from Kawasaki
    Kawasaki Owner Center Parts Schematics. with downloadable PDFs

    Bike Protection

    Frame Guards / Case Guards Updated 2/20/2017 - finished the Kydex frame guards.
    Skid Plate Comparison Ricochet vs. B&B Off-road. Updated 12/17/2016


    Carb, Jetting, Engine, Exhaust

    Carb and Jetting Info, Notes. Updated 12/16/2016. - cold weather field note


    Controls

    First Mods, bars, risers, throttle tube, grips.
    Folding Lever Quest - ASV Install - Disable Clutch Lever Neutral Safety Switch
    Installed IMS Flightline Shifter - Ditched stock linkage. 12/31/2016


    Electrical Mods, Lighting and Gadgets

    Headlight/Taillight Addition. Updated 2/26/2017 - installed Tusk LED taillight

    Luggage and Travel

    Trail Luggage and Crap Hauling. Updated 2:26/2017 added Wolfman Enduro Tool bag


    Maintenance and Service Info


    Maintenance Tips
    Service Manual Notes.
    Tech Specs, Torque and Service Info.

    Racing!

    KLX140G Enduro racing...a project for 2017


    Ride Reports

    First and Second Trail Ride Reports! Added 12/28/2016

    Sprockets, Gearing, Chains

    Gearing and Chain Info updated 1/6/2017 with manufacturer notes
    Gearing Commander Site - bike is listed now.

    Suspension

    Suspension Info / Mods. Updated 2/26/2017 First test with Cogent DDCs and upgrades

    Tires, Tubes, Rims

    Tires, Tubes, Rims updated 3/1/2017 Custom Rim/Wheels info

    Oddball Items and Parts

    All aftermarket parts tried on bike so far. 1/6/2017 added links to all products
    KLX140G Kickstart???

    Seat Options:

    MotoSeat Can Do It - Read Here


    Projects

    My Training and Practice Notes
    Plate The Bike Update 3/7/2017 - ordered everything I think I need.
    Steering Damper Quest
    .

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


    Basic Bike Info:

    144cc oil cooled, 5 speed, carbed. 1.3L 10w40 with filter change.
    11.5-12 hp stock based on listed KLX150L specs from Kawi Europe.
    Full size tires. Excel aluminum rims. Rim locks from factory.
    Front and rear disc brakes.
    Opened up ergos.
    Rubber mounted reversible bar mounts.
    A real rear shock.
    Forks are nothing special but have been fine with my big self on it. Tuned for adults.
    Exhaust is quiet but has a pleasing note.
    It's light and you can throw it around at 218 lbs fueled up.
    IRC Vulcanduro tires stock. Pretty nice.
    Has a 100 watt stator so you can put LEDs on it, heated grips or a dual sport kit and plate it with no stator mod required. Bike is DC and has a rectifier and such already on it.
    I found it easy to load by myself on my hitch carrier.

    Ground Clearance:

    If you're worried about ground clearance on such a small appearing bike, don't be. It beats all the main Japanese Dual Sports and trail bikes, and is almost the same as a 2017 YZ250F. Surprised me too. All specs below from manufacturer spec pages for current year models.

    KLX140G: 12.4 inches
    KLX140L: 10 inches
    CRF150F: 10.1 inches
    CRF230F: 11.7 inches
    TT-R230: 11.6 inches
    CRF250L: 10 inches
    DRZ400S: 11.8 inches
    WR250R: 11.8 inches
    DR650: 10.4 inches
    BETA X-TRAINER: 12.6 inches
    YZ250F: 12.8 inches
    BETA 125 RR-S: 13 inches. [reports IRL, weighs 30lbs more than spec sheet states]
    KX250F: 13 inches
    KX450F: 13.6 inches
    KTM 250 XC-F: 14.7 inches

    Stock gearing:


    is 13/57 with a 134 link 428 chain. It has a lot of nice useable torque and never feels jerky in lower gears. As long as you are rolling forward at all it's virtually impossible to stall in 1st or 2nd. You can just ride around managing the throttle and never really need touch the clutch unless you're shifting or coming to a stop.

    It will wheelie and a nice thing is if you are still learning to wheelie, giving it the inevitable accidental squirt of too much juice doesn't result in an "Oh shit!" moment.

    If you do want to do some exercises like practice full lock turns and balance, the clutch is a nice pull and doesn't induce any hand fatigue.

    I have submitted the info from the service manual to Gearing Commander and it has been added to their site.

    Here's the official Kawasaki page:

    https://www.kawasaki.com/Products/2017-KLX140G

    Here is a comparison graphic of the various KLX140 models:

    [​IMG]

    Here's a picture of mine pre-mod. There are big bore kits around already from the KLX140L series. The G is the same engine so plenty of carb, air box and jet mods have already been figured out and field tested.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Here it s next to a CRF250L. The KLX140G is over 100 pounds lighter. It looks small compared to the CRF, but it has 2.4 more inches of ground clearance.

    [​IMG]

    It's very slim. The CRF250L to the left looks like a whale compared to it. The seat and foam is actually good.

    [​IMG]


    I'll detail some mods and things I've done so far in another post.
    #1
  2. LostInPA

    LostInPA Professional American

    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2016
    Oddometer:
    1,274
    Location:
    Central PA
    First Mods:

    Bars:


    I'm 6'1" and have long arms so I wanted to put higher bars on it. I used Rox 2" risers and Pro Taper fat bar Suzuki/KTM bend. Rise 3.63", Pullback 1.85". I really like the straight bend on these.

    In order to do this you'll need a new throttle tube because the stock one has the grip vulcanized on. After searching around I couldn't find one but discovered G2 throttles makes an aluminum one listed as for KLX110/140.

    I ordered the $9 motion pro one for the KLX110 [01-0092] with fingers crossed, and it goes on just fine. I did have to rotate the throttle cable under the bar because I raised the height a lot.

    Here's some pics.

    [​IMG]

    I also used Cycra Probend guards on it.

    [​IMG]

    Heated Grips:

    Next I wanted heated grips cuz I'm a wussy. I usually use Oxford Heaterz and like them but I decided to give the Bikemaster LCD heated grips a try. On the plus side the grips are a touch slimmer and softer than the Oxford, the connectors are much higher quality. On the negative it does not have the auto shutoff sensor like the Oxfords and must be wired to switched power. A bonus feature is the LCD controller shows a voltmeter display which is cool.

    I checked the wiring diagram in the owners manual and found a switched power and ground that comes off the kill switch housing cable and runs to a plug under the number plate. I used posi-taps to hook in the red grip wire to the brown wire on the black plug and the black (ground) on the grips to the black/yellow wire on the plug. I put the posi-taps on the cable side of the connection running from the bars and not into the main wiring harness. Result: flip the bike kill switch to on (there is no key) and the grips come on. Turn the kill switch to off and everything is off.

    Link to correct size posi-taps: https://www.amazon.com/Posi-tap-Con...=UTF8&qid=1478132949&sr=8-9&keywords=Posi+tap


    [​IMG]


    Pegs and Controls:

    The next things I wanted to do was get different pegs and do something about the brake pedal. I wear size 12.5 MX boots so a wider platform is appreciated. The stock ones are decent at 40mm wide x 90 mm though.

    I was looking around the pro moto billet site and noticed that the part numbers and fit kit for the KLX140 series and KX85 are the same. Ditto by examining the OEM parts schematics for the two bikes while looking at the parts used to attach brake pedals.

    I ordered in a set of IMS Pro Series KX85 pegs and an OEM KX85 brake pedal. They should be in by Friday and I'll report back. If KX85 parts fit then that opens up a world of foot peg options in all price ranges.

    (update: KX85 pegs OK, brake pedal - fits but must add extra washer.)

    (update: caved in and got the Fastway Evo Air. Only lowered option I could find.)

    (Update 12/30/2016: Tusk KX450F brake pedal also fits with extra washer. I used it a few rides. Good on height adjustment. A little too far out on downhills. I cut the tip off the stock one, rebent it and installed outlaw racing folding tip. Using this for now.)

    Skid Plate:

    I also ordered a Ricochet skid plate after talking with them. Unfortunately choices are limited and I could not find a plastic plate which I prefer. The only options I found are Moose, Ricochet and B&B Off-road in Australia. The Ricochet mounted up fine. I used closed cell foam truck cap mounting insulation to deaden it and rubber strips under the rear skid plate clamps. No noticeable noise increase. No rattle.

    Update 12/5/2016 I ordered the B&B Off-road one. There is a separate post where I compare and do photos.

    Headlight:

    For lighting I ordered the Baja Designs Squadron Sport LED headlight assembly. It's 1800 lumens at 20 watts consumption and will be plenty. This ain't no race bike. This is working great. See seperate post about the install.

    Misc:

    I like Renthal grip donuts and threw some on. I ordered a set of Tugger pull straps. These are handy, or you can make your own. The KLX140G will use a type 3-4 rear strap mounted to the subframe bolts under the fender, or a type 1 rear tugger to the seat bolts using an included nylon washer. That's what I went with.

    http://www.thetugger.com/

    That's it until more parts arrive this week.

    Here's a Hot Lap from my backyard. Lol. Just me puttering around working on throttle control. Filmed with a potato. For scale reference I'm 6'1".

    #2
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  3. TBR

    TBR One Life ~ Live It...

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2013
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    2,339
    Location:
    Cruisin' China since '89..
    #3
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  4. LostInPA

    LostInPA Professional American

    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2016
    Oddometer:
    1,274
    Location:
    Central PA
    Yeah I use your thread for ideas. :-) I started the other thread pre-purchase and decided to take the plunge and go for it. I'm having a great time with this bike.

    I was down to this or the new Beta 125 but ultimately for my use decided I preferred the simplicity of the oil cooled Kawasaki. If I get a Beta it will be a big one lol.
    #4
  5. LostInPA

    LostInPA Professional American

    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2016
    Oddometer:
    1,274
    Location:
    Central PA
    Parts Update:

    OK the following parts were tried:

    (Updating post with links to all items. Links and products might change over time. Search for best prices.)

    Fit.

    1. Motion Pro KLX110 plastic throttle tube - fits - no problem. 01-0092. Use the bike finder to get the right one. https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/727/1491/Motion-Pro-Throttle-Tube?term=motion+pro+klx110+tube

    2. Rox 2" Risers - Pro Taper Suzuki KTM fat bars - fits fine. Have to rotate throttle cable under bars due to height. These risers fit the stock 7/8 mounts and you can put 7/8 or fat bars in the Rox at that point. https://www.amazon.com/Rox-Speed-FX...UTF8&qid=1483749995&sr=8-4&keywords=Rox+riser

    3. Cycra Pro Bend Handguards - no issues. I have them for fat bars. The racer pack includes everything you need. You can get them for fat bar or 7/8. https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/962/25783/Cycra-CRM-Racer-Pack-1-1-8"-Bars?term=cycra+pro+bend

    4. IMS Pro KX85 foot pegs - fit but thick powdercoat needs sanded down. I did not like them once on. Trying something else from Fastway or Flo. Use the bike finder to select Kawasaki KX85. https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/1070/5314/IMS-Pro-Series-Foot-Pegs?term=ims+pro+footpegs

    It is also possible that Tusk brand KX85 pegs might work. Have not personally tried.

    5. Bikemaster LCD Heated Grips - fine. There is a switched power and ground beneath the number plate you can tap - see first post. You'll need some posi-taps and posi-locks for easiest install. Size 14-16 gauge. https://www.amazon.com/Bikemaster-H...6&sr=8-1&keywords=Bikemaster+LCD+heated+grips

    5. Richochet Aluminum Skidplate for KLX140L - fits. (same frame - bottom dimensions at least) Works good I used closed cell foam strips like the kind used to seal a cap on a pickup. Lined bottom and where it touches frame. Also cut rubber gasket strips to put under the rear clamps that hook on the frame. No noticeable noise increase. No rattle. See my post from first post index where I compare to B&B Off-road skid plate. https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/...d-Skid-Plate?term=klx140l+ricochet+skid+plate

    7. Baja Designs Squadron Sport headlight assembly - fits but the included rubber strap mounts are too loose. I ordered and installed using the optional Tectate mount kit they offer after talking to them. That thing is locked on solid now. Call direct to get the ADVRider discount. I got the light assembly, Tecate mount kit and a simple wiring harness with on, off and taillight hookups to go with it. https://www.bajadesigns.com/

    8. Tugger straps. You can use a type 1 or type 3-4 rear strap depending on what you want to do. I wound up using an extra type 1 mounted to the seat bolts with a washer. Plastics fit on fine afterwards. You can make your own, get them from Giant Loop or Kriega but I use the Highline Recreation ones.

    Front: https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/...ion-Tugger-Lift-Strap-Front?term=tugger+strap

    Rear: https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/...tion-Tugger-Lift-Strap-Rear?term=tugger+strap

    9. Gold Plug item MP01 magnetic drain bolt plug is the correct one if you want one. Amazon kept sending me the wrong part so I ordered direct. http://goldplug.com/shop/mp01/

    10. Tusk Brand rim lock bolt covers and spacer. (protects threads). https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/1511/13582/Tusk-Rim-Lock-Nut-Spacer-Kit?term=rim+lock+cover

    11. Tusk Brand valve stem rubber gaskets - replaces valve stem nut. Keeps crap out of rims. Myers valve cap replacement which has built in valve core remover. Order enough for all your bikes at once. You'll want them.

    Gasket: https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/726/22204/Tusk-Rubber-Valve-Support-Seal

    Cap: https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/726/1244/Myers-Valve-Stem-Cap-With-Core-Remover

    12. Motion Pro 1/4" ID fuel line, K&N 90 degree 1/4" inline filter and 10mm fuel line clamps all went on no problem. I keep the original fuel line in my trail kit. If the fuel filter gets cracked or busted somehow in the woods you're SOL. So I take the original as emergency spare cuz Mr. Murphy. Note: you can get clear fuel line, clamps and the filter from Jets'R'Us much cheaper. Order at the same time you pickup your new pilots, mains and shims. See the carb post for link to their awesome KLX140 jetting step by step. http://www.jetsrus.com/

    13. I received a rear master cylinder guard from B&B Off-road in Australia. It is listed for the L model. Goes on fine. They are the same. It's nice because it provides a little more of a place for my boot to grip plus protects it. I love their stuff and they are such nice people. The exchange rate is usually in our favor from USA. Email them and they'll send you a pay pal invoice and ship Australia post with tracking number. https://bboffroad.com.au/brands/kawasaki-products/master-cylinder-guard-kawasaki-klx140.html

    14. Twin Air filter. 151338. If you're getting this do your valves and install this before jetting and tuning the carb. https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/734/2687/Twin-Air-Air-Filter?term=twin+air

    15. Tusk Brand black Spoke Skinz. Chicks dig bling. It like hypnotizes them. https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/1072/61146/Tusk-Spoke-Sleeves?term=spoke+covers

    16. KX85 brake pedal. Got it to fit with a high tech device, an extra washer. It now clears the frame. Pedal is aluminum versus steel and has a shorter reach from the pegs. The tip is riveted on so you can cut the rivet and bolt on a folding tip. Going to try this for a few days and see how I like it. The stock pedal was just not working for my feet. The shorter reach should let me more easily cover / get to the rear pedal when on the balls of my feet. This also means blingy aftermarket KX85 brake pedals should be fine. Go to Rocky Mtn ATV, login, go to OEM parts finder and look up the brake pedal for 2016 Kawasaki KX85. OEM part number: 13236-1353

    17. Pro Moto Billet Evo Air pegs. I have them installed in the low boy position with no shims. Ahh. Much better. Of note, the fit kit supplied with them is labeled KX85 on the back. So yeah. KX85 pegs, have worked twice on this bike. https://fastwayperformance.com/footpegs.html

    Fit Kit: Yamaha - 22-3-2031S
    Item# 22-3-2031S

    Evo Air Footpegs - 22-4-007
    Item# 22-4-007BKS (black)

    18. I got the Tusk brand KX450F brake pedal in. It comes with folding tip and brake snake cable. Just like with the KX85 pedal an extra washer is needed to clear the frame. Works good with the lowered pegs. The geometry of the KX450F pedal allows you a lot of up/down vertical adjustment to pedal height. It's a a bit longer than stock. If you have a small foot and use stock pegs try an OEM KX85 pedal. If you have a big foot or have lowered your pegs the Tusk KX450F pedal might be better but it's longer than stock. If your feet are regular the stock one should be fine. https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/...inum-Brake-Pedal?term=tusk+kx450f+brake+pedal

    [update 12/30/2016: I found the KX450F pedal a touch too long on downhills. I chopped the tip (just the tip) off the stock one by dremeling the welds. Rebent it and attached outlaw racing folding tip. Trying that now.] You'll need a Dremel and drill bits for drilling steel to do the surgery. Folding tip: https://www.amazon.com/Outlaw-Racin...sr=8-1&keywords=Outlaw+racing+brake+pedal+tip

    19. ASV F3 folding brake lever, F3 clutch perch and lever. See separate post. Requires that you disable neutral safety switch from stock clutch perch. No biggie. Click - Instructions with photos. Part numbers in that post.

    20. B&B Off-road Engineering KLX140 skid plate. Fits. See comparison thread for lots of photos. https://bboffroad.com.au/brands/kawasaki-products/bash-plate-kawasaki-klx140.html

    21. Installed IMS Flightline Folding Tip steel shift lever 317315 for XR100R. Works. See post about it. Check thread index. Probably not for people with smaller feet. https://www.amazon.com/IMS-317315-F...TF8&qid=1483752364&sr=8-1&keywords=IMS+317315

    22. Acerbis foot peg testicles. I started using these on my bikes. They work. Keeps mud and crap from clogging the foot peg pivots. https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/1070/34881/Acerbis-Foot-Peg-Covers?term=acerbis+foot+peg+covers

    No Good:

    1. You can get a weld on Scotts above bar stabilizer kit. You won't be able to mount one under bar though. The Scott's is 70mm wide, space between handlebar clamps is 60mm. Bummer. Checked my GPR Damper, it's 73mm wide. Grrr.
    2. Ordered some "Neverland" brand pivot levers for KX85 to try. I use this brand on my CRF and DRZ. Unfortunately they don't remotely fit. Going to study parts schematics and try to figure something out.
    3. Warp9 KLR650 folding levers. Sigh. Brake lever fits exact. Clutch, no way in hell. Ugh. The quest continues.

    On Order:

    1. Acerbis Enduro LED tail light. Has arrived. Debating if I like it or want to get the Tusk one instead. - ORDERED THE TUSK SINCE IT HAS LIC PLATE LIGHT WHICH I WILL NEED. Has arrived. I have it installed. See headlight taillight post.
    2. As part of my plate the KLX project I ordered and KLR650 front brake light switch which mounts under the front master cyclinder. The KLR and KLX use the same master cylinder. The mount holes are there. It fits.

    Looking For:

    1. Possibly a tall seat foam kit.
    2. Damper. :-)


    Potential Upgrades If Neeed:

    1. Fork Springs. [Correction: L and G share most fork parts but have different springs among other things.]. I now have custom springs and DDC drop ins from Cogent Dynamics. See suspension post. They rock.
    2. Shock Spring: the L and G use different shocks and springs. See suspension post for details. I have a custom spring from Cogent for my weight. I dig it.
    3. Plate it? Going to try to finish this by end of March 2017 if possible.
    #5
    Booker likes this.
  6. LostInPA

    LostInPA Professional American

    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2016
    Oddometer:
    1,274
    Location:
    Central PA
    Service Manual:

    I received the KLX140G service manual from Rocky Mtn ATV this weekend. Maintenance is very minimal. The service manual is well written with good instructions, diagrams and photos. Worth getting.

    First oil change and valve check at 5 hours. Next oil change is at 50 hours. Next valve check is at 100. I'll change my oil again at 25 hours though.

    I did the first oil change - 1.3L of 10w40 if replacing the filter, which I did. I also completely took apart the rear suspension cleaned out the grease and packed the bearings with Bel-Ray. It was actually greased up pretty good from the factory. I need to order two gaskets for the valve check. I'm sure I could use the ones on it again, but just in case. Things always go south or something tears when you don't have an extra around.

    The intake and exhaust valve check and adjustment procedure is very simple. Just use the adjustment bolts. Basically, with engine cold, remove cam chain cover, rotate around (clockwise per service manual) until TDC, remove valve adjustment covers, check, adjust, close it up. Next check at 100 hours or 12 months.
    #6
  7. cc3

    cc3 Adventurer Supporter

    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2016
    Oddometer:
    45
    Location:
    WA State
    I spent way to much modifying a 140 for my daughter a few years ago. Big bore kit, carb, pegs, exhaust, KX100 used suspension ect. She literally wore the footpegs off the frame. Had to reweld both sides. Great bike.

    Best bang for the buck. 1. Carburetor. The larger carb made a huge power difference. 2. Clutch. The stock setup has a special plate to allow some slippage for new riders. Just add another standard plate and take out the funky looking small one.
    #7
  8. LostInPA

    LostInPA Professional American

    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2016
    Oddometer:
    1,274
    Location:
    Central PA
    Yep I'm really enjoying it. I bought this after attending American Supercamp and the MSF Dirt School courses. My other bikes are all dual sports and after the classes I realized I'd skipped a step in learning to ride dirt. That would be the lightweight moderate power dirt bike that people who started when they were kids or teens put in a lot of hours on. So that's what I'm doing with this. I can practice a lot of stuff from the classes in my yard without things getting out of hand.

    I do notice the carb is jetted very lean. It's very cold blooded and takes a good while to warm up. I think a rejet is in order.

    I'm trying to resist overspending on this. Good luck right? You know how projects start to spin into "just one more farkle" then it's done.
    #8
  9. TeeJayIdaho

    TeeJayIdaho Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jan 25, 2016
    Oddometer:
    73
    Location:
    Idaho
    Any idea if the suspension is set up for heavier riders than the 140L version?
    #9
  10. LostInPA

    LostInPA Professional American

    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2016
    Oddometer:
    1,274
    Location:
    Central PA
    I believe it to be tuned for adults. I'm 215 no gear, and it seems fine to me. I've only been running over railroad ties and things and hopping off my porch and steps so far, but no complaints. I feel that it can do trail conditions we have here in PA which often consists of loose rock and baseball to basketball sized rocks in the trail with lots of little rain ruts.

    Under heavy braking the front does not immediately collapse.

    [Update 11/21/2016 - The G has a different PN# shock than the L and different fork spring PN#]

    A review from Transworld Motocross:



    Here is the Kawi official video:

    #10
  11. cc3

    cc3 Adventurer Supporter

    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2016
    Oddometer:
    45
    Location:
    WA State
    I'm doing the exact same thing... Except with a trials bike. I'm a life long dirt biker wanting to improve my skills so I'm chasing the dog in the backyard making sharp turns at slow speed. If you can't pop up the front end with the clutch you might want to look into replacing the one weird clutch plate. The next level is pivot turns and small wheelies.

    Super tough bikes though, the main drawback with the kids one was the small tires which they fixed now.
    #11
    LostInPA likes this.
  12. LostInPA

    LostInPA Professional American

    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2016
    Oddometer:
    1,274
    Location:
    Central PA
    Carb Kit:

    The bike comes jetted very cold blooded. I've ordered a carb kit from 6Sigma. I'm leaving the bike essentially stock except for a twin air filter swap. I will report back on the kit and how the re-jet goes. On the plus side I have over 10 hours on it and I'm still on the first tank of gas. It's a 1.5 gallon tank and it just lasts, and lasts.

    Link to carb kit: https://www.amazon.com/Kawasaki-KLX...d=1478612711&sr=8-1&keywords=KLX140L+carb+kit

    I received the carb kit today. Included is a new pilot (42), new mains (100,105,110), shims for the needle and very good tuning information.

    I am leaving my exhaust and air box stock except for a twin air filter. I will be starting with the following:

    Pilot 42
    Main 105
    Mixture: 2.5 turns out
    Shim: Move needle clip down one towards pointy end, or add 1 shim/washer

    Stock the bike is:

    Pilot 38
    Main 95
    Mixture: 1.25 turns out

    I might have to switch back to a 40 pilot in summer. The main thing I'm trying to achieve is eliminate the cold blooded starts and lengthy warm up. I don't care about power gains. I like it as is.

    I found this link on Jets R Us which has detailed step by step instructions with photos on KLX140 carb removal and jet installation.

    https://jetsrus.com/FAQs/FAQ_jetting_repository_write_up.html

    Excellent resource.

    Jet Notes:

    I completed the initial re-jet

    Pilot: 42
    Main: 105
    Mixture: 2.5 turns out
    Shims: 2 small metal washers included in kit.

    Update: [11/12/2016]

    Checked and adjusted the valves again. Adjusted just shy on the loose side. With 42 Pilot, 105 Main, 2 Shims, I set idle after it was good and hot. The mixture screw is 3.5 turns out so my pilot is too big. But it's still in the 50's here. I predict 42/105 will be good for dead of winter and 40/100 will be for rest of year. Idles real smooth right now. Everything is good.

    Update: [11/15/2016]

    I pulled my plug tonight to check it. Wow it is charcoal black and sooty. I'm really rich, much more than I thought, or the spark isn't hot enough. I'm going with being rich. I got some various jets in from Jets R Us so I'm dropping to pilot 40, Main 100. I put in a new plug. Amazon has the correct NGK plug as an add on item for $1.95 so I got a couple. I'll see how this runs and check the plug in another 5-10 hours.

    Here is what the plug looked like from the 42/105 combo.

    I'm now running Pilot 40, Main 100, Same Needle shims, Mixture 2.75 out, no longer smells rich.

    [​IMG]

    Update: [11/20/2016]

    Pilot: 40
    Main: 100
    Shims: 2 small washers
    Mixture: 2.25 out

    Spent a bit more time fine tuning it. Bike starts up with choke on first try. Choke can be turned off after about a min. It's 40 degrees here today so it seems good. After bike is good and hot it settles into a smooth idle at 1550 RPM.

    From the factory the idle screw is set straight up and down, so if we call that twelve o'clock then I have my idle screw turned to the left at about 10 o'clock.

    While tuning it today because of the cold I noticed a bit of exhaust gas escaping around the joint between the head pipe and muffler connection. If it keeps doing it I'll replace the gasket there. It might just be the way it is. The clamp is on tight. I'll fool with it.

    Update: [12/2/2016]

    Sticking with the setup I have as of 11/20/2016 update. Now that it's a bit colder a little more choke is needed at first start. I'm still happy with it. Leaving it like this.

    Update: [12/16/2016]

    Had the bike out at the Dirty Santa ride, 26F-31F temps, wind, off and on snow. Bike was a little cold to start but once heated up ran fine all day.

    General Carb Notes:

    Removing the carb is very easy and unlike some bikes you don't need an impact gun to get the float bowl screws off.

    Once you have it back on you can access the idle adjuster and the mixture screw (if you notch it like in the link above) with a long thin flat head.

    If you remove the panels and seat it should be possible to lossen the rings and rotate the carb in place from the left side of the bike to get at the float bowl. You'll probably need to unscrew the throttle cable from it first though.

    I'm no carb expert, far from it, but it seems to make sense to put 5-10 hours on the bike and perform the valve check before delving into the carb. If the valves are out of spec tuning the carb will likely be a PITA.

    I set my valves on the loose side of the listed tolerances. Intake .05mm, Exhaust .12mm. Specs are listed in tech specs post; next post.

    Fuel Consumption:

    I switched to reserve at 14 hours and reserve lasted about another 2.

    I expect trail use consumption to go faster but still, it seems on the 1.5 gallons this is a safe 10 hours of ride time or all day bike depending how hard you flog it.

    Most of my riding has been in mid RPM range.
    #12
  13. LostInPA

    LostInPA Professional American

    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2016
    Oddometer:
    1,274
    Location:
    Central PA
    Torque and Bike Specs / Common Spare Parts #:

    I'm going to list the basic bike and torque specs here from the manual for easy reference. INCH pound items are in yellow.

    OIL 1.3 L 10W40 with filter change
    Fuel: 87 Octane, 1.5 gal tank. (5.8 liters)
    Brake Fluid: DOT 3 or 4 (do not mix!)
    Spark Plug: NGK CR7HSA. Gap: 0.6-0.7 mm
    Main Fuse: 10 AMP
    Battery: 12v6Ah 10HR
    Kawi Recommended Tender: Optimate 4

    Valves and Carb:

    Intake Valve Clearance: 0.04-0.08mm (0.002"-0.003")
    Exhaust Valve Clearance: 0.11-0.15mm (0.0043"-0.0059")
    Rotate CLOCKWISE to TDC, from service manual.

    Stock Pilot: 38
    Stock Main: 95
    Stock Mixture: 1.25 turns out
    Float Bowl Height: 10.4mm +/- 2mm
    Stock Fuel Hose: 1/4" ID
    Fuel Line Clamps: 10mm

    Sprockets and Chain:

    Front Sprocket: 13 tooth
    Rear Sprocket: 57 tooth
    Chain: 428 DID 134 link.
    Chain Slack to be Measured Rear Wheel Off Ground: 45-51mm at tightest chain point.

    Gear Ratios:

    1st 2.667 40/15
    2nd 1.895 36/19
    3rd 1.474 28/19
    4th 1.182 26/22
    5th 1.00 24/24

    Primary Reduction Ratio: 2.880 72/25
    Final Drive Reduction Ratio: 4.385 13/57
    Overall Drive Ratio-Top Gear: 12.628

    I submitted to Gearing Commander and bike data is now listed.

    http://www.gearingcommander.com/

    Rims and Tires:

    Front Rim: 1.60
    Rear Rim: 1.85
    Standard Runout: 1mm, 2mm max.
    Stock Front: 2.75-21 IRC Vulcanduro VE35F
    Stock Rear: 4.10-18 IRC Vulcanduro VE33
    PSI: 12-14 lbs
    Stock tires are intermediate terrain Enduro tires. They are nice.

    Standard Shock Settings:

    Rebound: 11 clicks out (softer-counter clockwise, harder-clockwise)
    Compression: 2nd position (1-4, 1 softest, 4 hardest)
    Preload: 74.7mm (adjustable range 68.2mm-101.2mm)
    Spring Free Length: 252mm, Service Limit: 247mm

    Forks:

    Fork Oil: SS-8 240ml per fork when changing oil, 282ml per fork after disassembly.
    Oil level, fully compressed, no spring, 126mm +/- 2mm

    COMMON SOCKET SIZES:

    Handlebar Clamp Bolts: 10mm
    Handlebar Mount Bolts: 17mm
    Steering Stem Head Nut: 30mm

    Upper Fork Bolts: 12mm
    Lower Fork Bolts: 14mm

    Plastics: 8mm
    Seat Bolts: 10mm socket, 12mm box end to remove.
    Fuel Tank Shroud: JIS Philips
    Remove Fuel Tank: 8mm

    Brake Pedal Bolt: 8mm Hex
    Adjust Brake Pedal Height: 10mm, 12mm wrenches
    Front Caliper Mount Bolts: 12mm
    Rear Caliper Mount Bolts: 6mm Hex

    Spokes: 6.3mm
    Front Tire: left side 14mm, right side 17mm
    Rear Tire: left side 17mm, right side 19mm
    Rimlocks: 12mm
    Valve Stem Nut: 10mm
    Upper Chain Guard: JIS Philips
    Lower Chain Guide: 8mm
    Axle Adjusters: 10mm, Locknut 12mm wrenches
    [In the field tube change, tools needed: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm]

    Oil Drain Bolt: 17mm head, 12mm x 1.5 body.
    Spark Plug: 16mm a removal tool comes with bike.

    Cam Chain and Valve Covers: 8mm
    Valve Lock Nuts: 9mm

    TORQUE SPECS:

    Lower Fork Bolt: 18 ft lbs
    Upper Fork Bolt: 15 ft lbs
    Handlebar Clamp Bolts: 18 ft lbs
    Handlebar Mount Holder Nuts: 25 ft lbs
    Steering Stem Head Nut: 47 ft lbs
    Steering Stem Nut: 43 in lbs

    Rear Axle Nut: 58 ft lbs - need cotter pin.
    Front Axle Nut: 58 ft lbs - need cotter pin.

    Rear Shock Upper: 29 ft lbs
    Rear Shock Lower: 29 ft lbs

    Spokes: 35 inch lbs
    Front/Rear Brake Disc Mount Bolts: 20 ft lbs. Loctite
    Front Caliper Mount Bolts: 25 ft lbs
    Rear Caliper Mount Bolts: 18 ft lbs

    Engine Oil Drain Bolt: 13 ft lbs
    Oil Filter Cover Bolts: 78 in lbs

    Cam Chain Cover Bolts: 78 in lbs
    Valve Cover Bolts: 78 in lbs
    Valve Adjuster Lock Nuts: 78 in lbs
    Rotate CLOCKWISE to TDC if doing valve check. From service manual.


    Tie Rod Mounting Nuts: 44 ft lbs
    Rocker Arm Pivot Nut: 44 ft lbs
    Swingarm Pivot Shaft Nut: 79.7 ft lbs

    Side Stand Bolt: 21 ft lbs
    Side Stand Nut: 32 ft lbs
    Brake Pedal Bolt: 18 ft lbs

    Rear Sprocket Bolts: 25 ft lbs
    Rear Master Cylinder Mount Bolts: 89 in lbs

    Spark Plug: 115 in lbs

    Front Master Cylinder Clamp Bolts (front brake lever): 78 in lbs

    Common Spare Parts Kawasaki PN#s:

    Oil Filter: Part# 52010-1053
    Oil Filter Cover Gasket: Part# 92055-0201
    Cam Chain Cover Gasket: Part# 92055-0202
    Valve Adustment Cover Gasket (2 needed): Part# 92055-1655

    Front Sprocket: Part# 13144-0045
    Rear Sprocket: Part# 42041-0156

    Rear Brake Pad: Part# 92025-1817
    Front Brake Pad: Part# 43082-0075

    Front Brake Cable: Part# 43095-0953
    Clutch Cable: Part# 54011-0611
    Throttle Cable: Part# 54012-0634
    Choke and Cable: Part# 54017-0038
    Rear Brake Cable: Part# 43095-0954
    #13
    scridercoach likes this.
  14. LostInPA

    LostInPA Professional American

    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2016
    Oddometer:
    1,274
    Location:
    Central PA
    Headlight and Tailight:

    I have received the Baja Designs Squadron Sport headlight and shell. Waiting on some wiring, the tectate mounting kit from Baja, and an Acerbis Enduro taillight kit to arrive. The rubber straps that come with the headlight shell would work fine on a bike with fatter forks but they are too loose on the KLX. The alternate mount kit from Baja Designs should fix that. You could fab your own I guess but for $18 I'll give it a shot.

    I will detail hookup once I get it all installed. I will be hopefully wiring this to switched power with separate on off functions for both the tail light and headlight. I'll see how it goes.

    I want the tail light for visibility on the trail but I'm going to try to hook up a brake light switch on the rear master cylinder. If I can get brake light function working then bonus points.

    I examined the rear master cylinder and it might not be possible to install a brake light switch in place of the current banjo bolt. The stock one faces towards the front of the bike and tucks in a slight recess. I'm going to order a Goodridge replacement one and see what happens. I believe the correct one is 10mm x 1.25 Single Bleed, but don't hold me to it until I can try it.

    Possible brake light switch.

    https://www.amazon.com/Goodridge-Ba...868260&sr=8-4&keywords=goodridge+brake+switch

    I also discovered by scouring the parts schematics and doing a cross reference search that the front brake master cylinder on the KLX is the same as the KLR650 Gen 2, minus the brake light activation switch mounted to the underside of the reservoir housing. You can order those bits separate so it should be an easy way to add a front brake switch. I checked under my reservoir and the mounting holes and everything for the switch are there.

    Update Headlight Install: [11/15/2016]

    I received the Tectate mount kit and a wiring harness from Baja Designs. The mount kit consists of pipe clamps, rubber sleeves for the pipe clamps, aluminum brackets and stick on rubber sleeves for the brackets. Install is easy once you figure out the correct orientation of the brackets for your bike. Pictures below.

    The wiring harness consists of a handlebar on/off switch, a lead with waterproof connector that matches the Squadron Sport light, a lead back to the battery and an optional taillight lead I asked them to add. It's nothing you couldn't make yourself but in the interest of saving time I threw one in. I put the on off switch on my left bar between the bikes on/off and clutch perch.

    The harness came with a 15 amp fuse installed. These LED lights draw next to nothing so I replaced it with 5 Amp.

    I ran the harness down the left side of the bike after covering it in some wiring conduit. The type I have is high heat rated. You can tell it is high heat rated because it will have a gray stripe running down it versus regular.

    I decided to keep the headlight run direct to battery. The on off switch will control it and the tail light being on. The Squadron Sport has more of a spot pattern but it is bright as hell. Good light.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Update [2/26/2017]

    I got the Tusk LED taillight assembly installed. The Baja Designs harness I have right now only supplies basic power and ground so I hooked up the Tusk so the normal running light is on when I turn on the headlight.

    The Tusk comes with a moles connector meant to plug into the Tusk Enduro lighting harness they sell. I'll be switching to that later but in the meantime I hooked up the taillight black to the harness white and the taillight yellow to the harness black. The red wire on the Tusk is the brake light.

    Tusk Wires:

    Black - ground / neutral
    Yellow - running light and license plate light.
    Red - brake light

    I drilled through the fender and used some rubber washers and M20 6mm bolts and fender washers on both sides with a nylock nut. Take your time. The four bolts in the middle are holding on my Wolfman Enduro tool kit bag base.

    [​IMG]

    The light tucks up nice under the fender. I drilled a hole here to pull the wire through.

    [​IMG]

    One thing you want to do is under the light base, where the wires go into the light, use some silicone or rtv to seal that up to keep water and crap out.

    [​IMG]

    The light is LED and real bright. Especially the brake light LEDs. I like it.
    #14
  15. kojack

    kojack AMF!

    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2007
    Oddometer:
    4,541
    Location:
    god's country, AKA. Newfoundland!
    This around the size of the crf 230 right?
    #15
  16. LostInPA

    LostInPA Professional American

    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2016
    Oddometer:
    1,274
    Location:
    Central PA
    Yeah pretty much the same size but I find the cockpit not as tight and it's 30 lbs lighter stock. Smaller engine though, but I used a CRF230f in a class and I can't feel much difference when doing stuff in 1-3rd. It's got a lot going for it on the low end especially with the 13/57 stock gearing. It creeps real good downhill too.
    #16
  17. kojack

    kojack AMF!

    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2007
    Oddometer:
    4,541
    Location:
    god's country, AKA. Newfoundland!
    awesome. I don't plan on keeping mine stock. big bore, and goodies going in.
    #17
    LostInPA likes this.
  18. LostInPA

    LostInPA Professional American

    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2016
    Oddometer:
    1,274
    Location:
    Central PA
    Yay! I won't be the only KLX140G guy on ADV. :-)

    When you get things going jump in and let us know how the mods are.
    #18
  19. LostInPA

    LostInPA Professional American

    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2016
    Oddometer:
    1,274
    Location:
    Central PA
    Field Test - Medium Soft -Enduro with Extra Cheese:

    Well I am planning to take the KLX140G up to AOAA area in a couple weeks to give it a real workout in the hills of coal country. I'll reserve this space for a field / crash report. :-)

    The riding area: http://www.aoaatrails.com/

    Been there once before. They've got just about every kind of trail from two track Jeep stuff to single track and plenty of kooky off camber trails in the woods with big ass rocks.

    Here's a photo from my last visit on the CRF250L. Oops. Fortunately God put those rocks there knowing I would need them to stop myself. This was also the crash where I confirmed that you can slam your chest full force into your bar end while wearing a Tekvest and walk away alive.

    [​IMG]


    TRAIL TEST 1 REPORT:

    Trail Video:

    N3YMY thumping on the KLX140G on the flats. Summary: fun as hell.



    I got a ride in the woods and no big crashes and no injuries. Holy crap.

    Well one little crash but that was at 3 mph and I was using the front brake to see what would happen on the dirt I was in. I found out. But it was more of a fall over on the side and laugh crash.

    AOAA:

    So N3YMY and me went up to the AOAA adventure riding area weekend of 12/4/2016. We spent Saturday night at my place carbing up on pizza and drinking Ripple wine. Just kidding, no wine.

    As I am from Hershey that makes me habitually late for everything. I don't know why. I moved here seven years ago and I still have an underdeveloped sense of how long it takes to get anywhere from here. We got the gear loaded Sunday AM and planned to head out at 8 and arrive about 9:30. We pulled into the AOAA parking lot a bit after 10:00. :-)

    Once there we got the bikes ready and geared up for the ride. I had attached some Giant Loop Mojavi saddlebags to the bike because I can't help myself. On the top of those I strapped my first aid kit with ROK straps. This is important for later.

    The bike, out on the trail.

    [​IMG]

    We started on the main trail out of the lot. I was riding like a puss as this was my first dirt venture since I crashed my CRF250L here last time I was up. It's gravel then turns to dank hard dirt with rock fingers protruding out of the ground. Over time it's been stripped down to the hard stuff from all the traffic.

    As you go up on the side trails off the main one they get narrower and a bit harder. Eventually you get to sections that ATVs can't do. N3YMY was leading the way and providing instruction as we went. This was massively helpful to me in putting together things from my classes in a real trail scenario and applying it to the terrain. I can't thank him enough for being patient and a good teacher.

    If you don't like rocky trail climbs and descents, you don't have a lot of options in PA so you're going to have to learn to do it. I'm ok with the climbs for the most part. I'm not claiming it was always graceful or that there were no swear words involved, but I like them.

    But my nemesis is anything downhill. We did a bunch of those of varying difficulty and rockiness. Sometimes it was ok, sometimes (a lot) in the beginning I stalled out or duck walked. But I started to get a little better as the day went on.

    A couple hours in we were up on this trail and we stopped for a min. We took off again and went down some ATV tracks and were getting ready to do a longer descent. N3YMY noticed my first aid bag was gone.

    A Bear Got My First Aid Kit:

    Well we went backtracking looking for it. Eventually we found it in the spot where we had stopped. It's a heavy duty cordura MOLLE bag that I use. Upon picking it up we noticed it looked like something had got into it and torn it open. First thought was black bear.

    I stuffed the bag in N3YMY's backpack and the plan was to get he hell out of there ASAP. We went back the direction towards the hill. I don't think a KLX140G has ever gone faster in third gear lol. N3YMY took the smart strategy of you don't have to outrun the bear, just don't be last. In fairness he waited up to look back and see if I had crashed or got mauled. :-)

    Here's where it was strapped on.

    [​IMG]

    Back on Track:

    After that bit of excitement we went back and completed the descent. I got down this one a little better. I was starting to figure out, and as N3YMY suggested, that often the best thing to do is be in proper gear, don't touch nothing, concentrate on body position and just ride the bike down without getting all apprehensive.

    This trail lead us into some rougher stuff. It started with blue marked trails that were rockier and steeper. Man they are physically demanding to get through. Often there are spots where there is no real ground and you're just going rock to rock. Trials guys would love this stuff.

    We came upon a dirt climb with about 20-30 feet of run up. I was sure it was about 60 degrees. If you were at the top and ran and jumped out a few feet, you'd miss the hill and splat down in the bottom somewhere.

    When it was my turn I put it in second (yay 13/57 gearing), took off and pinned it. I got up it good but at the top lip of the climb my feet came off the pegs and I almost came off the bike but I hung on and made it.

    At the top you had to turn right and keep going and ride up through a tough big rock section with branches and crap on the track before getting to a smooth part to catch your breath. I think the only way up it was motorcycle, on foot or horseback. At the top we saw the sign posted that what we came up was a black trail. Sweet.

    Once up top we stopped for a nature break. I was keeping an eye out for the bear in case a line of leaking Pedialyte powder from my first aid kit had him following us.

    After this we made our way down to the flats on the mountain and what I'll call the playpen. It's a big coal area with tons of loose stuff you can do donuts in and generally horse around. Lot of fun. Right before the playpen is where I did the front brake test. The rest of the day we spent riding the faster open trails and flats until the "rules" kept us from going on the other half of the property. Boo.

    Conclusion on the KLX140G, it's a mountain goat. It's not fast but will climb up or down about anything. Suspension could be a little stiffer for our size but it never bottomed out. It feels very stable in all conditions. All in, a super fun trail bike.

    We made our way back to the parking lot to pack up. At the lot we met a B class Senior racer who had just rolled in off the trails and had a great talk with him. Cool guy and lots of knowledge to share.

    Dat First Aid Kit:

    I inspected the first aid kit. Looking it over I saw that some of the MOLLE was melted. We checked my exhaust and nothing was burned to it. In the end I think it came off the rear, got hung up on my bike and eventually spat out on the trail. Or it was a bear with laser eyes.

    First Aid Kit Evidence Photos:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    That's it for this one.


    TRAIL TEST 2 REPORT:

    Yesterday, Sunday 12-11-2016 was a call to arms for all dirty dirt riders to come out to the Reading Anthracite Coal Company riding area for a toys for tots benefit. $20 to ride for the day and bring a toy donation.

    Here's a link to the ride area info: http://readinganthracite.com/access-permits/

    RAC is cool because there are virtually no rules. You can ride sunup to sundown. $125 permit per calendar year. I'm joining in January. Now versus AOAA, it's not as structured. You won't find marked trails really and it's pretty much go anywhere on anything on about 30 square miles of PA mountain forest.

    Saturday I ran out to the store and got some Marvel Superheroes Lego sets and a 20,000 piece jewelry making craft kit. I don't have daughters but I do know girls like sparkly things so I'm sure someone will like it.

    The rest of the day I spent getting Green Fury ready. I didn't want to use my Mojavi bags. On advice from NY3MY and the B class racer we chatted with last weekend the thought was "get all that crap off your bike." A pack rats worst nightmare, telling him he can't have his stuff.

    I spent hours fooling with some Giant Loop pannier pockets. Didn't like them upfront because they got in the way of my knees when up on the tank. Tried them as little saddlebags. Didn't like them there either as they got in the way of my boots standing. Went to the old standby, Wolfman Enduro tank bag. Got it mounted perfect, loaded with my stuff and then realized this was stupid and looked like a humpback whale and took it off.

    Went digging into my giant tub of bags. Saddlebags, three or four Chinese fanny packs, rucksacks, dry bags, you name it, I got it. Once I bought a whole tub of surplus Alice packs from E-Bay. Why? How the hell do I know. Cuz backpacks?

    Then I remembered my Kriega R15 backpack. Whew! I was almost in seizure mode. I ran to the adventure closet and grabbed it. (Yep I have an adventure closet - divorced dudes will understand). I was able to pack first aid kit 2.0, black bear edition in it, my beanie and my water bladder. I almost stuffed in my micro survival kit but resisted. Yeah but what if? Shut up brain, it's a trail ride not an E&E from behind hostile lines.

    Still had my Giant Loop handle bar bag on. Gots to have some pouches. Holds my keys, headband light, pocket knife and Gatorade chews. Drama over I went to bed at 1:00 AM.

    Next morning I got the bike loaded on the hitch carrier and per usual left later than I wanted. I guess if you ever make plans with me you can pretty much figure I'm not leaving my driveway until between 8-9 am despite the best intentions. So keep that in mind for scheduling. On the plus side I do always show up. [​IMG]

    The RAC area is a wee bit closer to my place than AOAA so after the obligatory stop at the general store to ponder which Cliff bars to get and whether I want a Slim Jim or a Slim Jim cheese combo pack I headed out of Chocolate Town.

    There's something you need to know, my GPS is a prick. There's no other way to say it. If it can find the most obscure route it will. I got off 81N at the right exit, turned right and followed the prompts. Right to a dead end closed road. You Mother-F'er. Now I was gonna be even later. I drove around to the other side of the mountain, "Recalculating, recalculating!" "Shut up!" "Shut up!" Then I spotted dudes towing bikes. A-ha! I followed them in and got there.

    There was a whole mess of people there and more pouring in. Final count was 189 riders. Awesome. Side by sides, four wheelers, bikes of all types. Lots of interesting characters to chat with and pickup tips. Aside from the money donation a big trailer was filled with toys for the local kids. The organizer reports that the toy donation people were floored by the amount. Good!

    Parking lot people doing parking lot things. Incidentally this is what PA looks like 65% of the year. Grim, like Chernobyl.

    [​IMG]

    These guys wanted to trade all these bikes for my KLX, no way I said. You're one bike short of a square deal.

    [​IMG]

    I got the bike unloaded and warming up. Time for me to dress. Now here's a tip, or more of my weirdness. I wear my under armor cold gear stuff and then a pair of basketball shorts, a hoodie and my fuzzy deerskin slippers when driving out. Why is that important? It's probably not, but it sure is nice putting on slippers for the drive home after you've abused your feet in MX boots all day. Once I arrive I get suited up in all my knee brace stuff and armor.

    Behold. Green Fury ready. Looks almost naked without luggage. You can see it was snowing a bit. Temps were 26-31 F or so. No one thought heated grips on a dirt bike were dumb that day.

    [​IMG]

    I registered and attended the riders meeting. There was a group ride for big bikes and dual sports that was going to be led and then a led Enduro loop for the young and the brave. I decided to do what N3YMY calls freeballing, no wait, free riding. I just wanted to explore around.

    Speaking of which I saw him riding through the parking lot but he totally dissed me and acted like he didn't see me. Lol. Just kidding. He was looking for a buddy and I blended in with all the other grey and black clad riders. Plus the dudes behind me that were firing up a pack of two strokes drowned out everything.

    Gear of the day. The Bell MX-9 ADV MIPS proved to be a good cold weather trail helmet. The Alpinestars Rage Drystar gloves, even though they are marketed as sport street, were great cold weather trail gloves.

    [​IMG]

    Off I went. I turned left out of the lot on the main trail and explored a bit. I found some single track in tight woods that was cool. Most mud puddles were frozen mud puddles so that was new. I came back out of the woods after awhile and followed the main trail to the end of the leg I was on and found this.

    There's a path down or a cliff drop, the path down was slightly less steep than the cliff. You have to be very careful riding here until you know the area. Hazards are not marked and trails aren't either.

    [​IMG]

    I took this picture from the opposite side of the huge hole. I guess it was a pit mine. The bottom has a rain water lake in it. If you look middle upper in this photo you can see the sliver of trail I was on where I took the above photo.

    [​IMG]

    I went exploring on side trails in this area and found a bunch of steep descents and immediate climbs that cut down from this grassy, hilly area to the main dirt road on the opposite side of the pit. I decided to go for it and did a bunch of these to practice. They are much steeper than the camera shows and this was a mild one.

    [​IMG]

    Later in the day I did a long and steep hill climb that overlooks the valley. It was cool but by then the mud had frozen so there was zero traction. I diverted to the grass field along the edge of the trail and used that to get up and down. The awesome thing about RAC is it's like a spiders web of trails. You go up one and then you see three or four branches. Some easy, some super hero level.

    A cliff on the main route. The trees up top are full size forest trees. It's really tall. You can get back up in there.

    [​IMG]

    Next I headed back towards the lot. At the midway point there is a rocky climb off to the left that heads up into the terrain. Once you get up there it is awesome. There are trails with berms, little whoops and all kind of rock climbs and just cool stuff. I explored around for awhile and then headed back out to the main trail again and went past the lot entrance. I will say that it's probably smart not to go full throttle here until you learn the trail section you're on. It's possible to go off a rock ledge at points.

    Back on the main trail, and down the way a bit I found another playpen of loose rock and dirt I could goof around in. I love that stuff. Practicing flat track style turns in trail dirt, seeing what the bike does in deep loose stuff. Good fun.

    Lunch Time!

    Holy smokes the organizers did a great job. Hot dogs, hamburgers, meatball sandwiches and even coffee from Dunkin Donuts. They did a raffle after lunch and gave out a lot of cool prizes that you'd actually want to win. Nice.

    After lunch I went back out and explored the other end of the main trail. I found another cool cliff formation in the woods. I guess I like rocks. This is actually humongous tall.

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    Spotted a possible bear or animal den in the cliff side towards the bottom. There is a small stream down lower. I got this thing with bears.

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    Here is a very steep descent I was gonna do. There were no rocks I could see going down. It was really, really steep. Steepest thing I would have ever done, and high up. For some scale, the tops of the trees growing up from the bottom were not much higher up than where I was sitting on the bike.

    I thought I could make it but I was by myself and there were no other guys around I could ask to watch me for a min while I tried. I decided not to be dumb. I'll save it for next time. Holy smokes, I had a moment of adult judgement.

    [​IMG]

    I spent the rest of the time exploring around and practicing until close to 3:00 or so. I spent a lot of time tackling rocky climbs and descents. My confidence and bike handling were much better.

    By 3:00 the snow had started to pick up and all the mud was frozen. Rocks were getting iced. I decided that was good enough and went back to pack up.

    When I got back to the parking lot I found this KTM no one wanted so I let the clean up crew know so they could throw it out.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Well that wraps up this one. Another dirt ride, more skills practice and no crashes or injuries. Yay. The KLX140G was capable and fun.
    #19
    FoggRider likes this.
  20. scottro

    scottro Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jul 13, 2007
    Oddometer:
    559
    Location:
    Pittsburgh, PA
    Is the frame on the 140G larger than the 140L ? I bought a really clean used 140L for the same reasons & with the same goals in mind as you've outlined for the 140G. I've been setting it up for street-legality, and got a 170cc big bore kit (from Indonesia) to install over the winter. I also got a manifold to fit a Mikuni 26mm. The KLX 150 D-Tracker seems to be a popular dual sport in S.E. Asia. They have a lot of aftermarket parts over there that we don't see state-side.
    http://sxparts.com/shop/klx-140-klx...140-klx-150-big-bore-kit-170cc-with-camshaft/
    #20