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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Geek, Mar 16, 2012.
Or E Bay or Rocky Mountain's Tusk brand. Much cheaper and work fine for me. FWIW
2013 XCW 500
No Sicass? Why not? No fucking around with that kit.
Ugh, chopping up the stock bodywork.
You don't have to do Dremel surgery with the Sicass rear under fender.
The Sicass LED hand guards / turn signals work great.
I used the 22-300 Sicass LED turn signal flasher thing, it works great.
The Sicass kit comes with a horn button.
The Sicass kit comes with a stick-on plate light, in the 4 years since I have owned the bike (numerous pressure washings) it is still sticking like a champ.
I used the Sicass ignition key kit, works great.
I used a generic hydro switch for both front and rear (I am running a Rekluse LHRB kit with no foot brake), no issues.
Hmmmm...nice catch. The part I listed (77707988017) is indeed the part I ordered and installed in my Acerbis tank. As far as I can tell, it's a perfect fit.
I wonder what the difference is between what I used and 78107988017?
Some like blondes. Some like brunettes.
I'm glad you're happy with what you chose to use.
In this case, the blonde Sickass chic is about twice the price of the brunette Tusk stuff, at least for the very same Chinese switches and other parts I have checked. But some guys really like blondes.....I guess. I should note that I don't buy kits--just individual components and wire 'em up myself. FWIW
New Rottweiler mirrors.
lightly tagged one on a fence and the other on my garage first day but no issue, just re aim and perfect.
expensive but bery nice.
off-roading all day today with them folded in and they are still pristine
Just few pictures of 500 dual sporting in Africa:
Do you have access to more models wiring diagrams like the one in the back ground of the switch?
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Kind of, they are located in the service manuals
I'm tempted to go the same route as you on my '15 500 XCW. The previous owner installed the sicass brake switches but nothing else. It appears buying everything I need in your list (beyond the indicator lights) will be about half the price of the sicass kit. Based on your research, did you notice anything that would cause the same parts to not work on my one year newer bike (it has the newer dash)? Was everything plug and play? Where did you source the euro flasher switch from? In my quick search online it appeared none of the big online ktm parts places had it offered.
I can't say off the top of my head whether the 2015 dash affects any of the part numbers, 2014 vs. 2015.
But you can download the 2015 EXC chassis and engine parts manuals here and compare the part numbers listed against the numbers I used. Yes, everything plugged together as factory. The only thing I needed to splice was the Sicass 22-299 flasher "kit," and only because I chose to use LED signals.
I bought the Euro flasher switch while I was in Germany. I ordered it from here and had it shipped to my hotel. I'm fairly certain they will ship to the US but it will obviously cost more than I paid to have it shipped intra-Germany.
I ordered the euro seitch from aonc, it ttok 6 weeks for me 2 get it but it did come. I needed a switch housing prior to the euro one arriving so i bought the 98(older) version & it works fine.
I ordered the parts suggested by Tipsy & it was plug and play 4 my 14 350xcf-w.
What's the best deal going on now for chain and sprockets? I have orange rims and not sure about a colored chain or not.lol
Thanks for the feedback, I actually found a knock off of the switch on amazon for $14. Bought the wiring harnesses you recommended as well as the other parts I needed and everything was plug and play. All the parts (minus the turn signals that I already had) were $140. Much lower cost than the sicass kit and OEM quality!
Glad the info was helpful.
So for the benefit of others, the part numbers I used and listed were unchanged for your 2015?
Got a link to the switch you used?
I just picked up a pretty nice 500xcw. it is fairly stock. It has a dual sport kit on it of unknown origin. It doesn’t have an ignition key setup, what would be the best way to go about putting one on that isn’t easily tampered with? I understand you can get the cheesy 4 wire ones that interrupt the kill and start buttons but seems too easy to bypass.
I’m going to do some preventive maintenance on the fuel system. What is the best price you guys have seen on the small inline fuel filter? I saw 3 for $23 shipped on eBay. Tried also to buy a 10 pack of the KL97OF in tank filters on rock auto but they are out of stock. Got one off eBay for under $7 shipped. I’ll grab some 5/16 fuel injection clamps from Napa. As far as the pump screen, clean or replace?
I wanted to also pick up a few extra injector o rings. I found that the size is 7.2x2.2 and it appears that is a size used on some Hondas but otherwise pretty rare. The ktm part is $8ish, ridiculous.
What a killer bike!
Well... I need the help of those smarter than me. I have a 2012 500 XCW that I am attempting to consolidate the starter and kill switch. I purchased a generic switch that appears identical to the KTM factory switches on the newer bikes. Got it all wired up, but it runs in the kill mode and dies in the run mode(switching wires around does nothing to correct it).
I assume this has to do with the original kill switch killing it by grounding out, and the way the switch is designed it completes the circuit (grounding) when in the run position. Is there a way to correct this so it runs in the run position and dies in the kill position?
Thanks for any help you can provide.
Sounds like an awesome anti-theft device.
I agree, but I can be a little OCD about stuff like this. It has to be correct or it will drive me nuts. I thought about finding a way to repaint the symbols.
On most small engines the kill switch works by taking the kill circuit to ground. On some small engines the kill switch works by allowing current to flow thru the switch to a run wire. It sounds like you have a switch for each.
Is the actual switch internals removable or reversible? Put an ohm meter on the leads from your stock switch and see what is happening. Then put the ohm meter on the new one and see how it works. Maybe there are some unused contacts in the switch on the new one that you can use to duplicate the actions of the old one?