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The KTM 500 XC-W Thread.

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Geek, Mar 16, 2012.

  1. TipsyMcStagger

    TipsyMcStagger Long timer

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    I've got a large Wolfman rolie. I used to strap it to a fender rack on my DRZ. I need to mount it to the XC-W for an upcoming weekend ride, but I'm traveling for another week+, so I'm not home to play with it.

    If I need to order any straps, loops, etc, I'd like to do that now while I'm traveling.

    Any pictures, suggestions, etc. on securing a rolie to the rear fender with no rack?
  2. phlatlander

    phlatlander Adventurer

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    Well, my suggestion does include a rack, but not a hard mounted one. I'm not a climber or backpacker, I provide this information to say that my experience "rigging" stuff up is limited. But I figured it out and believe you can too.

    I bought a GCAG Scramble rack and really like it. Sorry, i don't have any pics but will try to explain how I set it up.

    I was skeptical before I bought the Scramble rack, and the 1st few times using it, but I have come to love the versatility. My primary use is with a 10L dry bag mounted to the top "square" area. I use a couple Viole straps, i'd buy the 32" heavy duty straps next time, and run those thru the metal "O" rings and lay the bag length wise from the back of the seat towards the rear of the bike, essentially the bag sits on the fender. 50 hrs on this setup with no issues. When I ordered mine I couldn't decide if I wanted the fender or girth hitch option and the guys at GCAG set me up with a hybrid that works exceptionally well for me. I mounted a couple mosko moto cleats to the black rear under fender, near the license plate, and run a couple webbing straps I had from the rear "O" rings to the cleats to pull the rack back. Then the "O" rings keep the gutter hooks from coming/pulling thru and I run the leg straps as instructed by gcag instructions/vids. This winter I added another cleat on the right(throttle) side of the bike to an existing screw on my 350xcf-w. I believe this will help me pull the leg strap tigher. On the chain side, I use a piece of paracord and put that around the frame and attach the leg strap through the paracord. Paracord is being used and a cleat, since there isn't a good existing location on the left side of the bike for a cleat. The paracord has more friction and as such is harder to get tight, but it works, see above hrs of use. My first time mounting the rack was my first time riding with it, didn't lose anything. As a note, I couldn't get the gutter hooks to grab the fender securely enough for my liking, but if I notched out a space between the black and orange fender it might work.

    I used the rack with a "seat" bag and 2 side bags last summer out in Colorado and that worked ok, w/ the gcag bag snake kit, think mine are 3ft long. I also used the leg of the rack to mount a 1.5L Fuel Friend fuel bottle to and that worked very well.

    If I did it over again I would consider the Hardcore soft rack, since my primary use is with a fender/seat bag. I like the idea of transferring some of the bag/fender weight onto the frame.

    Overall, on a scale of 1-10, 1 being unsatisfied and 10 being completely satisfied I would rate the Scramble rack a 8-8.5.

    As an alternative, you could probably get a few cleats and Viole straps and mount the cleats tot he bike and strap the Rollie on.
  3. TipsyMcStagger

    TipsyMcStagger Long timer

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    Thanks for the thorough explanation. That sounds somewhat complex. My upcoming ride is a just a few days after I get home from traveling, so I don't really have a lot of time to order hybrid straps and figure out how to use them. This could be a good solution perhaps down the road when I'm not pressed for time.

    I'll have a look at the Viole straps and cleats.
  4. Bungholio

    Bungholio Long timer

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    You could get the kriega rack loops. Designed to hold either the 5, 10, 20 litre US series dry bags of theirs which are essentially the same as the rollie bags. Provides web loops for you to tie stuff to, pretty flush profile, bolt through fender, rotatable to get the angle you want.
    TipsyMcStagger likes this.
  5. phlatlander

    phlatlander Adventurer

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    Location:
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    For a simpler solution, get a pack of the wolfman gutter hooks and a couple Viole straps(or web straps). Run the straps thru the gutter hooks and attach hooks to fender, tie bag down. I have no experience w/ the wolfman hooks so i have no idea if the viole straps will fit thru.

    I've seen pics of this setup before online, but don't remember where.

    https://wolfmanluggage.com/collections/buckles-hardware/products/gutter-hooks-4pack
    https://www.voile.com/voile-straps-32-inch-xl-series.html

    To clarify my first suggestion, the cleats i refer to are from Mosko Moto, https://moskomoto.com/collections/hardware-parts/products/cleat-kit, giant loop offers some too.
  6. TipsyMcStagger

    TipsyMcStagger Long timer

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    Sad to say that although I've had this bike for the better part of a year, I finally just rode it this weekend :cry That said, we rode 500+ miles and had a great time. :ricky

    When I did my initial round of mods, I made this post about issues with the OE front brake switch I used. The brake lever would not contact the brake switch. It appeared the solution was to remove the small tensioning spring from the lever. The EXC parts manual seemed to support this theory with the note "except EXC" regarding the spring.

    The problem is that without the spring, normal road vibration allows the lever to flop around causing the switch to constantly engage/disengage. The rubber dust boot does not provide enough tension to keep the lever engaged on the switch. As far as I can tell, I have it set up just like the factory EXC, so I'm not sure what I can do differently?

    I will probably install a hydraulic switch in place of the OE mechanical switch but it looks like the bulk of the switch can cause clearance issues with the handle bars.

    Just wondering if you guys have any thoughts before I get a hydraulic switch?

    Here's a random web pic of a hydraulic switch installed. I'll probably have to rotate my lever so it'll fit under the bars.

    [​IMG]
  7. Bungholio

    Bungholio Long timer

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    Haven't noticed lever flopping around or vibrating on my stock EXC.
  8. TipsyMcStagger

    TipsyMcStagger Long timer

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    At the risk of being redundant; When the lever is resting, it's holding the switch open (brake light extinguished). As soon as the lever is applied, it releases/closes the micro-switch and the brake light is illuminated.

    Here's a quick video of how it "rattles" around. Road vibrations are enough to allow the switch to constantly open and close.

  9. REDRIDERS

    REDRIDERS RIDE RED

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    Sorry for only replying now but were busy trying to find a resolution ,No parasitic draw bike would start easily when standing for some time ,But after a few kays the battery dies ,as in dead not able to charge on a charger ? I did post on another thread that I have fitted a new regulator rectifier ,But want to make sure I do not damage the it
  10. guns_equal_freedom

    guns_equal_freedom Long timer

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    I made my 2013 XCW 500 street legal.
    I used the hyd switch banjo bolt to activate the brake lights for both front and rear.
    I put the switch at the master cylinder end for the front and rear brake (I make the clutch master cylinder the rear brake master cylinder and I don't run a clutch lever).

    When I added the Faast Flexx bars to my 500 there was not enough space to use that banjo bolt on either the clutch master cylinder or the front brake lever without putting them at a weird angle so I moved the hyd switches to the caliper end of things.

    The only issue with that was running the electrical wires to the brake light wires.
    A little wire stripping, a little soldering and some electrical tape and shrink wrap tubing and they were good to go.
    I worried about catching the wires on sticks when riding in the gnar, I never had a problem with that.
  11. guns_equal_freedom

    guns_equal_freedom Long timer

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    Cut the spring down a few coils at a time until it stops doing it?
  12. InRoostWeTrust

    InRoostWeTrust Adventurer

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    XC-W's for some reason can't use the electric Microswitch - the break lever or springs used didn't put pressure on the switch. I don't recall the reasons, but I ran into this problem after buying the microswitch and ended up going with the hydraulic banjo switch.
    Buy 2 so you have a spare and if the 90 degree wire boot to cover the wires leading out if the banjo switch is offered, buy that too.
    I say buy 2 as they are like $14 and they do periodically fail (I had 1 fail on the rear break, and other have stated they fail, but reports are rather rare).

    Good luck!
  13. TipsyMcStagger

    TipsyMcStagger Long timer

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    Good luck![/QUOTE]
    The spring is already removed. The lever won't make contact with the switch with the spring in place. The parts manual indicates that the EXC with the factory micro-switch does not have the spring.

    [​IMG]

    Ordered a hydraulic switch. We'll see how it goes.

    Thanks for the feedback!
  14. TipsyMcStagger

    TipsyMcStagger Long timer

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    I never even thought of having the hydraulic switch located at the front caliper instead of at the master cylinder. This is something I'll keep in mind.

    Thanks for posting!
  15. Xpat

    Xpat Been here awhile Supporter

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    nzrian, Magus and rides2little like this.
  16. TipsyMcStagger

    TipsyMcStagger Long timer

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    I installed mostly OE EXC harness components on my 2014 450 XC-W to add lights, signals, etc. At the time, I just tucked the lead for a licence plate light under the fender.

    I'm now prepping the bike for the TAT and figured I'd better install a license plate light. I haven't installed it yet but I just received this LED plate light from TST Industries. It has a simple and slick mounting method. The housing of the light looks like it'll be pretty close to the tail light but I don't think it'll be a problem. I'll post pics when it's installed.

    Just thought I'd share :)

    Magus likes this.
  17. TipsyMcStagger

    TipsyMcStagger Long timer

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    Assuming one doesn't want to install a Sicass key switch, have any of you guys installed any kind of hidden kill switch, or even better, a hidden yet accessible disconnect for the negative battery cable?

    I'm getting the bike ready to ride cross country. I don't want a key that I'm likely to lose but I'd like some kind of (security) switch for peace of mind.

    A negative battery disconnect is most appealing because I'm likely to install a USB port and GPS cradle hot to the battery (by choice) and it would be helpful to be able to disconnect all parasitic draw by disconnecting the negative cable (without removing the seat) when desired.
  18. HickOnACrick

    HickOnACrick Groovinator

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    I'd like to do the same on my XCW. I am rarely far from the bike, but it would be nice to have the added security. In the past 6K miles on the bike, I have only spent one night in a hotel, so I pulled the spark plug out and parked the bike where the receptionist could see it, but a hidden switch would be nice.
  19. todd83-900t

    todd83-900t Been here awhile

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    Tipsy:
    You can connect one end of a SAE connector to the negative battery terminal and the gps and USB to the other. To complete the circuit plug another SAE connector that's been sorted. Simple and nearly bomb proof.

    I'm betting that you'll stay in hotels a portion of the TAT and thus you can recharge. If you take a small power bank then you don't need to wire up a USB port. I have a Montana GPS and remove it from the cradle every night.
  20. Magus

    Magus Never grew up... Supporter

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    Can you explain this a bit more? Not quite getting the set-up.