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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by neepuk, Mar 6, 2015.
yeah, I’ve had my stock air box out 3 or 4 times by now- only part of the job that bothers me.
Btw, I run 23-25 psi on the rear on pavement and as low as 16 off... i’m still getting great, even wear. Unfortunately the prices seem to have gone up and they’re not the easiest tire to find. I hope they can improve their us distribution.
I’m running tubliss on my 690, no issues at all. Currently using MC360 mid hard tyres (which are awful) but will be changing back to Mitas EF07 rear and C19 front greens this winter for more grip.
My new 690 bike stand:
Question on speedometer.
After all my repairs are done, engine back and running the last problem bothering me is the speedo. After 3 years when the bike has not been run and a battery was disconnected, the odo meter got reset and I'm starting from zero. More of a admin problem to document this to the authorities in the Czech Republic then a technical problem. I also needed to reset the wheel size as it has been deleted as well, I will share the procedure below but my problem is different.
The speedo goes crazy, even at a very low actual speed, it shows much higher speed on the display and does not count any distance and this still continues even though the wheel size has been set properly. Has anyone experienced same or similar problem? Any tips and hints for me?
I was wondering how the speedo actually works, the black plastic sensor on the left fork must be receiving some signal, either from the screw (with a magnet in it) or from any other element on the disk break which is rotating around the sensor. As I was removing and reinstalling the disk break (swapping from my motard wheels), I guess the problem might be there. I have not identified any of the screws being special or any different, all seem to be the same. The sensor is receiving something as some speed is shown on the display so I would bet my money the problem is on the wheel rather than in the sensor or the speedo cable. I have it set on KM/h which it should be.
Please help me. Thanks
Changing the wheel size (2009 690R) - it might be already disclosed somewhere in the thread but for those who are interested I am sharing my recent experience.
The wheel size is indicated on the display when you switch on the ignition. It comes under the "Length" word on the display and for 21" wheel it is 2205. For 17" (motard wheels it should be 1860 to 1882 depending on your tires - different experiences presented by different guys) you have to test it. I needed to google this process as it is not disclosed in my owners manual.
So in order to change the wheel size or reset it, you need to disconnect 2 (maybe 1 would be fine too) out of 3 white cubes connecting the wires to the black multi-functional display. Simply it just needs the juice to be flashing, the rest should be disconnected, you don't need to cut any wires as it is recommended in some other forums. Then you press "M" to get to trip 1. Then you hold both "M" and "S" buttons for cca 10 seconds. After that the wheel size number starts flashing and by pressing M you are adjusting the size up and by pressing S going down. When finished you need to press both M and S button simultaneously and switch off the ignition. When you switch the ignition back on, it should be already showing the wheel size you just changed to. Hope it will work for you.
Just rode my new 2019 690. I was shocked at how light it felt compared to my 1090r. 150+ lbs lighter? Putting them side by side it was like David vs Goliath in overall size. Pushing the 690 around the garage felt like my 500. Took me a couple of years to finally get here. As I get older the less I need. Now to start the customization. I have the lowering link for now so swinging a leg over is a non issue.
It appears in stock form the low end throttle response is pretty mellow. I am wondering if an sas/canister emissions delete + os2 sensor removal + wings exhaust + rade garage with twin filter upgrade will wake it up? I am thinking this would appear to allow the bike to breath better and run richer and cooler. Was curious of others experiences.
Hi, muffler without cat and airbox without lid or with wide open lid, then the asthma crisis ends ! You can do other mods, but these alone will give you 50 to 70% of possible improvement. (European my 19 bike)
So, you’re making an engine already tuned towards the lean side of things run even more lean?
Hi, ktm dealer said : take the old evo 1 akra line + powerpart lid, works fine + warranty ok.
No engine problem to date, no stalling or any other strange thing. The muffler is filled with a little ball of iron wool stuck to the spark arrestor to eliminate huge pops during decelerations. How do you detect that the map is too lean, without any malfunction whatsoever ? Thanks if you have a clue.
I thought buying a Pc5, but I don't know if it will realy add something, I haven't seen any objective testimony saying that it is mandatory. Do you have any advice about that ? Thanks again !
Look at the Rottwieler site. They have published dyno graphs before (in the Wunderfest thread?). Basically, they don't require a PC if you just use their intake kit, but the do if you open up both ends.
Well, rottweiler is a pc5 top reseller, so... I read everything on forums, internet, people saying it's mandatory, others saying that it makes a huge improvement, then 6 months later saying that it's not worth it, others saying that the custom dyno mapping is not working any more when altitude or weather is changing, then videos showing that even in low rpm the afr ratio is still ok. For me as long as the engine is running properly, no need to do further modifications. Maybe my air intake is not open enough, maybe my exhaust is not open enough due to the inox wool added in the tube, maybe one day I will testride a 690 fully tuned then buy the complete story (pc5, wide band sensor, autotune, full open intake without oem airbox...). Still waiting for something really convincing.
I will say there is a noticeable difference between road vs off-road mapping. Offroad mapping the 690 felt way more responsive while riding on the street. It sure gets hot. It’s clear the stock muffler has to go as well as removal of all the power robbing emissions stuff.
Without an o2-sensor constantly checking the exhaust fumes, one has to rely on more crude options; checking engine temperature (is it running hotter than previously?), spark plug color.
The easy way around this is to just run an engine map which is specifically developed to fit the current mods of the bike (exhaust, intake, cam, etc.).
Check out this video - Chris states that a PC5 isn't required when both intake and exhaust are changed, but does recommend it for maximum performance.
Completely agree with that, sometimes it's not possible to figure out heads from tails reading all the different opinions - I had similar concerns prior to purchasing the vortex ecu.
Hope you can find a bike with all the necessary mods and go for a testride
I don't really disagree, Rottwieler sells PCs. But Wings, Akro, pretty much any supplier will tell you the same story - the new bikes seem to be able to handle some modification but when you open both ends up you need a map.
So my only point was that Rottwieler published graphs from dyno runs, which is a bit more substantial than anecdotal comments, at least in my opinion.
It was also KTMs opinion back when map changes were common place.
It's also my personal experience. I remapped both my 690 and a Hinkley Triumph after I made intake and exhaust changes and they both ran significantly better than when stock (less throttle snatch, and a noticeable bump in low/mid rpm).
But if you're happy with the way it runs, honestly no argument from me.
And if you're not, the solution, is easily available - bring the bike in for a dyno run. Then you'll know.
Cheers, enjoy the bike.
Hi, one graph to summarize everything I read on the web concerning 690/701 intake/exhaust/map tuning (last engine, no tuning on internal engine parts).
don't hesitate to correct it if something seems wrong.
Interesting graph. I'm not sure where you got the raw data, but it certainly looks similar in most respects to what gets posted here.
It's also similar to what you'll find in the TuneECU thread - most noticeably the experience may of us have had with opening up the airbox cover on the older bikes to get rid of the 3-5k flat spot. Though I would say the EVO 1 mods should give you that bump as well.
So, i just got my 10' 690 Enduro, and want to do somethinh with it. Anyone got good tips regarding maps?
Kinda like the silence of the stock muffler, but will probably change it, and go full retard.
Used for enduro riding.
Know my way around tuneecu.