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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by GasGas300, Jan 11, 2010.
The bike is basically brand new, 5 hours on it when I put the new rotor on.
head bearings loose...?
That would cause a surge in the front brakes? The bike feels perfectly normal everywhere else. High speed through the whoops, jumps, turns, etc. The problem started when I took the stock rotor off and put on an aftermarket rotor. I'm going to swap back and see if that fixes it.
Did you buy an ebay Amazon rotor?.....shame....ding ding....shame....ding ding
You should know better!
It's a fancy one.
my 690 has a weird surge too when i put on my warp 9s. havent bothered trying to figure it out quite yet though
Did you replace it after only 5 hours because the OEM took a solid hit? I bent a rotor like 30 degrees out and unfortunately it bent the hub as well, after ruining a couple new rotors I noticed a brand new rotor would not sit flat on all the rotor contact points at once.
I took the OEM one off to replace a bent one on my 300. The bike with the surge is my 350 and it's only been down once and it was fine after that for the next 2 hours of ride time. It only happened when I put the new rotor on.
A bad new rotor.
I had a Suzuki TL1000R, the one of the stock rotors was bent, that caused the brakes to pulsate and not work at sppeds above 40 mph.
I replaced them with new EBC rotors.
I had the same issue.
I ended up replacing the fork tubes from a GSXR 750 to get the radially mounted 4 piston calipers (the TLR had 6 piston calipers that mount "normally").
I mounted up the EBC rotors and again I had the same problem.
I took my machinists straight edge and found that the old TLR and GSXR rotors were bent as was the "new" set of EBC rotors.
I ordered a new set of rotors from EBS and they were bent too.
I ended up buying a set of Galfer rotors and - no more brake pulsing.
I've already gone through one new aftermarket rotor and am now on the second one. I guess two could be bent in a row still in the package.
Appreciate it. It is an older bike but like I said, it'll be the newest one in my fleet. Plus I think I can upgrade later and pretty much get out what I put in it.
What sold me was the fact that it's bone stock and literally looks like it just rolled out of the dealership. Around 3k was my budget anyway, and that tends to be pretty much rock bottom for a decent KTM around here, so I think it's not a bad deal. Will have some money left over to add a skid plate, tubliss, and a few other goodies before hitting some single track.
Can anyone tell me what the gas tank on this bad boy might be off of? It is obviously not a W tank but the owner assures me the bike is an XC-W. I'm assuming someone swapped over an SX tank or something...for reasons I don't understand. He's only had it for a month; bought it from the original owner.
Along those lines, does anyone make a translucent tank for this year? All I've found is natural color but I like the looks of the translucent.
It's an aftermarket high capacity tank.
It could be IMS, Acerbis or Clarke.
It could be a a KTM Power Part made by one of those companies or someone else.
I don't see lights on it. I thought XC-W's have lights. I see it says "XC-W" on the black side panel, but the shroud looks like it reads "XC". I think an XC might have a smaller tank and no lights. (I'm far from a KTM expert...) I can't see a speedometer on it either.
best I can tell is those shroud graphics that just say XC are correct for the W, and this generation never came with lights. The Speedo and kickstand he did say have been removed but he has them. So really it's just the tank that doesn't match. But who knows, maybe the original owner just wanted a smaller tank.
First check the rotor with a machinist straight edge prior to installation. Then check dynamically ( rotating on the hub/ wheel assembly) with a dial indicator. This will confirm runout. As earlier noted, new rotors can be out of spec, and a bent hub will deform an otherwise in spec rotor. The stock KTM rotors are very thin to save weight. I also have had great luck with Galfer rotors. They are thicker, therefore resist crash damage better and seem to be consistently high quality. About $82 for a rear rotor from Slavens.
I have been looking at the Dal Soggio XP1 kit for my 2018. How would you compare the kit over the stock setup?
Mine feels a bit mushy from the factory
your profile pic looks like the overlook from Dirty Dabbers Dual sport ride...Bald eagle state forest?
Thanks for not showing all the pictures.
Is the front brake definitely not dragging? Maybe the aftermarket is a bit thicker and there's too much fluid in the master to let it retract further? Or not enough free play in the brake lever because of an aftermarket handguard or something? These offroad rotors are pretty light and I would imagine warp quickly if dragging.
Not dragging and it happened immediately upon install.