The Lifan engine thread

Discussion in 'Battle Scooters' started by hugemoth, Feb 22, 2011.

  1. shadetreeCT

    shadetreeCT n00b

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    Just as FYI, any time you use antiseize or any type lube/grease you need to reduce torque. By alot. If you put antiseize on your lugs and torque to spec and the lugs will snap, almost guaranteed to happen. Some one smart will chime in with the scientific reason why and hopefully proper torque information for you.
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  2. WECSOG

    WECSOG Dirt Road Denizen

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    Makes sense. When you lube the threads, less of the turning force is being used to overcome friction and that force is going into tension in the fastener and threads. That tension is the important part; torque is just how you get there.
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  3. boothmoto

    boothmoto Adventurer

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    I'm looking to buy a lifan manual shift 125 1P52FMI kit to put into my ct90k2. There seems to be a big difference in price on these kits on ebay. I have found a few as low as ~200 shipped, however the pictures on some listings show the side covers without 'lifan' written on them. Is there a chance of getting a 'knock-off' lifan engine kit if I go with the cheapest seller I can find? This is the cheapest listing I've found: https://www.ebay.com/itm/125cc-Vngi...h=item4b4ff940d0:g:EvcAAOSwAFRbqJt8:rk:1:pf:0
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  4. pnw

    pnw Long timer

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    That looks like a good deal. The same engine on Amazon is more than $100 more. Maybe there is one manufacturer who puts different name plates on them like Lifan? Funny, now a clone of a clone motor. The carb in the picture looks to be stamped with made in Japan rather than the usual Chinese carb, not that the Chinese carb is bad. For what it is worth several years ago I bought the one on Amazon, it came with a 26mm carb which seems too big for such a small motor. Even some of the 140cc come with 22mm carbs. Maybe the carb on the no brand that you linked is 22mm. If you buy one be sure to get a clutch cable that is for the front clutch mount (start in neutral), it isn't the same clutch cable as the rear mounted (start in all gears) "Lifan".
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  5. hugemoth

    hugemoth Big Brother is watching you!

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    Not sure how to tell if an engine is a real Lifan or not unless you open it up. On the horizontal engines there is an insignia on the cylinder head but its on the bottom side and can't be seen without removing it. Lifan sells engines with many different company names on the side cover but so do other manufacturers. Even if its not a real Lifan it may be just as good.
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  6. hugemoth

    hugemoth Big Brother is watching you!

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    Got an email from VMC motorcycle parts saying they will soon be selling Taotao 50cc to 125 cc engines. I don't know much about the smaller Taotao engines but the 200-250 cc CG engines in my Taotao quads have been bullet proof, just like my Lifans.
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  7. WECSOG

    WECSOG Dirt Road Denizen

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    I don't think Lifan is necessarily better than some of the other Chinese manufacturers; they're just large and well known. I've heard great things about Zongshen engines too, for example.
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  8. wanna bECO

    wanna bECO Long timer

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    Off topic but not quite... My favorite store to kill an hour in, Harbor Freight, has cheap motors too. My buddy put one in a mower 2 years ago. It is still going strong with nothing strange happening in it. Long live the predator.
  9. Moat

    Moat Been here awhile

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    Ditto; a buddy of mine has a HF Predator (around 3 hp...?) that he swaps between his snow blower in the winter and a garden tiller the rest of the year... about 4 years of heavy use so far, and still going strong. With a discount coupon, it's cost was less than $100, IIRC!

    Bob
  10. ratmoul

    ratmoul Adventurer

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    Great looking bikes. I have a nice 1971 CT90 with the stock engine, and a chinese CT70 copy that is almost new. It is a 125cc semi-auto 4 spd and I am having a problem that I was wondering if anyone had any ideas about. The engine runs well once started, but is extremely difficult to kick over with the kickstarter, especially in the first half of the stroke. The only way to get it to work is to apply pressure on the kickstarter and wait for the lever to start to move and then push quickly once it starts to go and is past the half way down point. If you try to just jump on it it will not go down or spin the engine. I can get it to run using the above method but it is a bit precarious. I am giving the bike to a young friend and would like it to start more normally and easily. I can start the CT 90 so easily it can be done by using my hand on the kickstart. I would like to get the 125 to start just as easily.
    Anyone run into this problem or have ideas what is causing it?
  11. pnw

    pnw Long timer

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    I have a (new to me) '71 CT90. Definiitely not what someone would look at and call "nice" but it is mechanically solid. Bought non-running but it has a title, I'm sure the motor could be made running with little effort but I'm doing a Lifan 125 transplant.

    Here it was on the way home
    IMG_1358.JPG

    Here it is now
    IMG_1375.JPG
    IMG_1376.JPG
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  12. pnw

    pnw Long timer

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    I didn't use a lower mount adapter, just some light grinding/drilling/welding and it seems to be working out so far. I will be able to use the original motor if/when I decide to return it to stock.

    After a little grinding:
    IMG_1368.JPG

    IMG_1369.JPG

    After a little drilling and welding:
    IMG_1371.JPG
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  13. pnw

    pnw Long timer

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    The Lifan 125 install and general non-cosmetic refresh is going without a hitch so far. I don't want to re-use the foot peg/side stand mount because the mounting holes don't match the Lifan but more than that they raise the foot pegs too much, a good 4" above horizontal. So for ~$20 I bought pit bike pegs/mount/side stand. I read that they tend to bend but the bar measures only 1/32" smaller in diameter than the 5/8 stock bar and the originals are only mild steel as far as I know. Anyone have any experience with these aftermarket foot peg mounts bending? If necessary I can weld some 1/2" angle over the top of the bar like this "^" since there is plenty of clearance between the bar and the bottom of the lifan motor lateral to the bolt attachment points.

    IMG_1392.JPG
  14. WECSOG

    WECSOG Dirt Road Denizen

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    All you can do is try it. Looks like it would be simple to reinforce if you find you need to.
    I built my CT90 from a bare frame and various scrap parts. I used a peg mount from an XR100, which I had to cut and weld in a spacer.
    pnw likes this.
  15. hugemoth

    hugemoth Big Brother is watching you!

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    The pit bike pegs look like a good way to go. Like Wecsog I modified the stock pegs with a bit of heating, welding, and grinding.

    BTW The Taotao 250 quad I bought new last year now has 412 hard use hours. The CG clone engine has never missed a beat.
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  16. pnw

    pnw Long timer

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    I thought about modifying the stock pegs to work but I want to keep them to be able to return it to stock if I ever choose (it could be a next winter project). New pit bike parts are a lot cheaper than buying used OEM CT parts to replace those I might have modified.
    Good, inexpensive winter hobby. I had a lot of parts from prior projects, some not specific to CTs but still usable for what I want to do. Fun to break out my old wire feed welder and use it again, figure out how to rig things to accomplish what I want without irreversibly altering the bike. It is supposed to be a warm dry El Nino winter here so I might be able to use it for camp and rides early this spring, my back allowing.
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  17. pnw

    pnw Long timer

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    Some of the leftovers from past projects include these turn signals. I had put led 6v bulbs in them but led seem to tolerate over voltage well. The '71 is wired for signals and the wire harness is in pretty good shape so I only had to add to the wire stubs in the rear

    IMG_1393.JPG
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  18. pnw

    pnw Long timer

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    Here it is finished up.

    I was wanting to put the air filter up under the rear rack but ended up using that space for a tool tube. I had trialed that with a wire reinforced 1.5" intake hose but it seemed to restrict air flow enough to make it run rich so I'm sticking with the filter on the carb. It is a Uni dual stage. Anyone know if this will be a problem riding in the rain with the air filter exposed or will the filter oil repel water enough (I used non-detergent 20W that I've had for years and used for foam filters and for chainsaw bar oil).

    IMG_1439_LI.jpg
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  19. hugemoth

    hugemoth Big Brother is watching you!

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    Same type and position as mine and I've never had a problem in the rain.
  20. pnw

    pnw Long timer

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    Thanks, that's good to hear.