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Discussion in 'Road Warriors' started by Hondo, Apr 28, 2010.
Holly cow! Respect.
That looked like my rear tire just outside of Pahrump NV years ago. I ran over something I never did see or feel leaving a gas station on my V-Strom. It took 8 gummy worms to hold air so I could ride to Las Vegas and get a new tire so I could safely continue my trip to Utah.
I put 7 of the brass tipped sticky rope plugs used in the dynaplug kit in my wife’s Honda Pilot auto tire, with a large cut. The dealer had to order a new tire, so she drove it for 3 days with those plugs and didn’t loose air or plugs. Should have took a pic, but didn’t.
The dynaplug kit is more expensive than the auto store plugs, I have used the standard sticky rope plugs for years, especially in atv tires.
For moto traveling, the dynaplug kit it is small, self contained, the brass tips on the sticky rope plug make it very easy and quick to use.
Although I use the standard sticky worm type plugs most of the time, I did use the Dynaplug years ago, and it worked great. Sometimes that "small, self contained" aspect can be just what you need on a bike.
Much to my surprise, the new tires arrived this morning, along with the new battery, air filter, oil filter, and spark plugs. Just got finished removing both wheels from the RT and loading them into my car so I can drop them off at the shop tomorrow morning. Removing the rear wheel was a breeze, but the front was a different story. There's so little clearance between the brake calipers and the wheel rim that it seemed almost impossible to get the wheel off, but it finally got done.
I put a car jack underneath the engine case to prop up the front until the wheel is back on. Now I'm just praying it won't fall over during the night.
Do you mean tight clearances when you pulled the calipers off ?
I carry a stop and go plug kit, which came with a little compressor. Old Ryan’s video didn’t have good things to say about it but I’ve used it several times and ridden thousands of miles on those same plugged tires without any problems at all. Maybe I’m a statistical outlier but that’s my experience with them. The sticky rope plugs work really well too and I even keep some in the tool compartment under the seat but haven’t used them in forever at this point.
You should tie the center stand to the exhaust cross-tube with ratchet strap or similar so it can't fold - otherwise you should be ok w bike on center stand and car-jack underneath the engine case...
I had a puncture one time in a 170/60ZR17 Metzeler made by a piece of bone about 4" long and 3/8" in diameter. The bone went inside the tire and retrieved later. It wasn't even sharp on either end but jagged. I put three gummy worms in the hole and it leaked about 1 or 2 psi a minute. I had to ride 15 miles to a shop and I stopped once to air the tire back up.
I always insert axle back into the forks once wheel is off. Then put a jack stand under axle. Seems to give a little more stability to front end
That's an excellent idea. I'm going to do that before I change the oil and filter. I've always had a phobia that the bike will roll off it's center stand and fall on me.
Now that the Roadsmart 4's are out, is anybody seeing good deals on Roadsmart 3's? I am currently running Michelin Road 5's but am thinking of picking up a couple of sets of RS3's.
Another simple trick for stabilizing the bike on center stand, for "belt AND suspenders" type people, easier with exposed roof trusses in your garage: toss a cargo strap over a rafter, strap to the rear grab handles, handlebars, exposed frame member, etc.
Update: Just got the wheels back on. It turned out to be much easier than getting them off, strangely. Even the front brake calipers went back on without a hitch. Seminole Powersports, who mounted and balanced the new tires ripped me off, though. I was told over the phone that it would be $40 to mount and balance each tire, but when I got there it turned out to be $45 per tire. They'll get no more business from me.
My structural engineering professor would have a stroke if he heard that. Those flimsy bottom chords of the trusses function only as tensile members. They were never designed to support a point load of ~500 lbs., and if they break, chances are that the rest of the truss will go with it.
So it seems I've encountered another road block: none of the oil filter removal wrenches I have will get the RT's oil filter out. BMW has a special filter wrench for it, which of course I don't have.
No strap wrench? Maybe go animal mode (apologies to In-N-Out burger) and jamb a screwdriver through the side. Been there...
Are you visualizing lifting the bike in the air by the rafter?
That's not at all what I'm describing, but a natural thing to imagine.
I do this routinely to stabilize the bike from tipping over.
If you do the math (vector?) it's a lot less weight than other things we commonly suspend in full from these structural members.
Oil filter on hex/camheads is recessed and not that accessible thus screwdriver method can lead to punctured engine block and major damage - I'd avoid that particular method at all cost, ymmv...
You'll need fluted oil filter wrench - Wunderlich pictured w link to get it from:
Motorcycle Oil Filter Wrench Aluminum BMW (wunderlichamerica.com)