The official XT225 thread!

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by wickerman777, Nov 4, 2006.

  1. Tom S

    Tom S Can I ride it? Supporter

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    A 1992 @ $1900? I'd pass. Look for a 2001 & up model. There were some changes/updates for the 2001 & up XT225s.
    http://www.xt225.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=68270

    Didn't mention them since I didn't think that you were asking about one that old.
    Not really saying that there is something wrong with a 1992 model but the price seems a bit high. A friend sold a cherry 2005 XT in 2017 with only 1145 miles on it for about $1900. I thought that was a give-away price though. It was advertised at $2100 & thought that was low.
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  2. TwinsFTW

    TwinsFTW Been here awhile

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    From what I've read, none of the changes are really worth specifically seeking a later year. It's not like some other bikes that have very substantial changes between certain model years.

    On price, it REALLY depends on your local area. I managed to get my 225 for just under $1k, but that's pretty much unheard of around here. As it was, I was only able to grab it because (a) I contacted the seller less than 12 hours after it was listed and (b) the first guy that was interested decided to not come check it out because it was raining that day.

    I would have had no problem paying double what I did for the same bike - it would still have been one of the cheapest running, titled, plated dual-sports that have been for sale in the area for quite some time. Most things around here of the DS flavor tend to be priced at $3k+ for older bikes and $4k+ for newer.
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  3. Aguaski

    Aguaski Been here awhile

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    Yep, that’s my experience in my market too. Any decent dual sport in the $1,900 range ain’t going to last long. That said, it would still be difficult for me to pull the trigger on a 1992 bike when I know a newer year of that bike will eventually surface on Craigslist.
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  4. Tom S

    Tom S Can I ride it? Supporter

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    I don't disagree with what you're saying here. Guess I'd just prefer the newer model XTs. For some other bikes I prefer the older models.
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  5. jimroid

    jimroid Long timer

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    BF181CF6-9952-4BA9-983A-6FA990298562.jpeg Fantastic weather & amazing roads. 51FE18AA-A890-454D-9FCE-E83688B59DF8.jpeg AC6A0104-55A2-45EB-9EFC-891DA8810BDC.jpeg
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  6. Sachou

    Sachou Been here awhile

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    Hi all, relatively new XT225 owner here, and I need some help getting this can of worms to run right. This might be a wall of text, so bear with me, and I'll throw in a couple pictures to make it worthwhile.

    I picked up this 1993 XT225 2 years ago for $750 with 8000mi and a bad idle (not so great deal, I learned). Turned out the engine had been overheated, piston scored, and needed a top end rebuild. 1 rebuild later, it still idled like garbage, and was stumbly until 1/4 throttle. 80 miles into that rebuild, I blew it up again by oil starving it, AGAIN (loctite your bolts, and torque them!). Now it's bored 1.0mm over, and 200 miles strong into this piston. And as a reference, if anyone finds themselves in the same boat as me down the road searching the internet netherspace for 1.0mm O/S piston rings, the Yamaha part # 4BD-11610-00-00 is in fact a 1.0mm overbore ring set, even though all parts houses list it as STD. But even still, it idles awful, no matter what I try.

    The plug is sooty black, it always wants to stumble and die at idle up to 1/4 throttle, it surges and misfires at that rpm range. I have the mixture screwed all the way in, which is the only way to make it halfway idle. Sounds like the pilot jet, right? Currently running the stock jetting at 40 Pilot and 130 Main, and everyone seems to agree that this is way on the lean side. I then performed the Z1 exhaust mod, and wow did it wake up the engine when I get on the gas, but made no difference whatsoever to the idle problem. It still ran way rich, even with the mixture screw all the way in. I even tried putting in a 37.5 Pilot Jet, mixture screw in, and it was still running rich.

    Whenever I turn the fuel off and let it run out the bowl, the revs would gradually increase and start running better until it ran out of fuel. So I checked the float, which is in spec at 15mm, and even adjusted it to have a lower fuel level, with no change. I removed the bowl and manually closed and opened the float valve, which stopped and released the fuel without leaks. At this point, I'm going to replace the float valve, and do a full carb rebuild, because that's something I haven't tried yet.

    I've put so much time and money into this "cheap" bike ($1800 TCO), and I'm so determined to get it running right, because it really is a blast to rip around on, especially after the Z1 mod. But after 2 years, it's really killing me. I'm beating my head against a wall, and wondering if there are better uses of my time.

    Any other ideas?

    Anyways, it runs great at wide open throttle, so I took it for a little rip in the Steppe yesterday, so here that is:

    IMG_3473.jpg

    IMG_3489.jpg
    IMG_3466.jpg
  7. turbo3x

    turbo3x Adventurer

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    Try checking the choke/enrichner plunger (and cable) to make sure it is closing completely.
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  8. Sachou

    Sachou Been here awhile

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    Oh. My. God. This. That was it. 2 years of frustration and hours of troubleshooting, solved in a single sentence.

    I choked it, let it warm up, removed the plunger, stretched out the cable by hand, replaced it, and went for a ride. It is 190% better. I can actually roll on the throttle and cruise around now.

    Thank you so much. I don't know why I didn't consult the internet sooner. Of the dozens and dozens of XT jetting threads I've read, nobody ever mentioned the choke, so I didn't think of it. Now I know why replacing the remote choke with a direct choke is so popular.
  9. markk53

    markk53 jack of all trades... Super Supporter

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    I have just finished up doing a late friend's 1993 Serow 225, clean carb, new battery, new petcock, and rebuilt front brake caliper and master cylinder. I have some other parts we are going to sell on the side, a larger plastic fuel tank, windshield/rack set up, and a rear carrier. The bike has a centerstand but I'm not messing with that. I need to list the bike in the forum for sale area. Going to ask $1400, has around 9000 miles and in probably better than average condition for what it should be as a 1993. KBB shows around $1500 average retail.

    PM if interested in any of it.

    Attached Files:

  10. Pixturethis

    Pixturethis Been here awhile

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    I seem to have to adjust my chain every 200-300 miles. Is this normal ? First chain I had was a DID non o-ring chain, it didn’t last 1000 miles before it was all wore out. The second chain I have is a RMK I think it is also a non o-ring chain. It seems to be a bit better, but still adjusting a lot more than the other bikes I have. I don’t ride the bike to hard just backroads Kansas riding.
  11. CloudSplitter

    CloudSplitter Putterer

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    Pixture, get an X-ring chain, or at least an O-ring chain. The OEM O-ring chain, that came on my XT250 lasted about 14,000 miles, when the counter-shaft sprocket wore out, with thousands of miles between adjustments. I replaced it when replacing the sprockets, with a non-O-ring chain. That needed adjustment after just about every ride, so I replaced it with an X-ring chain. That one is still going.

    If you only have a couple thousand miles on your sprockets, I'd keep them, but if not, be sure to replace them, too. After that, I'd only replace the chain and rear sprocket every other time you replace the small sprocket.

    Some will tell you to always replace all three components when one wears out, and that's what I learned as a mechanical engineer, but looking into this drive system, and other's comments, I've decided the chain and rear sprocket should outlast two small sprockets (one inmate says THREE). The second one will wear out a little faster than the first, because the chain doesn't fit as well, but I don't think the difference will be too much.
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  12. Pixturethis

    Pixturethis Been here awhile

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    Thanks. I’ll get a new x or o ring chain. I thought the OEM chain wasn’t an o-ring chain. Do u recommend a brand off chain you like ?
  13. markk53

    markk53 jack of all trades... Super Supporter

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    Maybe yes, maybe no. If the CS sprocket is changed before it is a total waste, I'd agree. If a rider normally gets 15,000 miles from a chain, try swapping the front sprocket at around 7000 miles and see if it will help increase chain life. My problem is that around 15,000 miles my chain would start getting tight links and I do not spray any water directly on my chain. I just shoot it with lube. Nothing will help tight links.
  14. NJ-Brett

    NJ-Brett Brett

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    If I could not have a TW200 (its sand around here) I would get an xt225.
    A friend had a pair, much more fun then a bike should be allowed to be.....
  15. CloudSplitter

    CloudSplitter Putterer

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    Pixture, I don't have a good idea of which company is best. I suspect that, because X-ring is the best chain, they're all good, but I went with the oft-recommended DID:
    https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/did-428-vx-x-ring-chain-p?s=886303

    I do have an opinion of which counter-shaft sprocket might be best. Because they wear fast, you want one that is through hardened, rather than just case hardened. The only one I could find that I think is through hardened is JT Sprockets:
    https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/jt-front-sprocket-p?s=977712

    That one is for my XT250, and I think the XT225 may be different. They only make 15-tooth for the XT250, but you can always go large or small on the rear sprocket. I wouldn't go smaller on the front, as that will increase wear, due both to fewer teeth and because the teeth must be slightly smaller.
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  16. Pixturethis

    Pixturethis Been here awhile

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    Thanks for the info and help.
    Marc.
  17. Sachou

    Sachou Been here awhile

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    Removed the problematic handlebar mounted choke knob and filled the resulting dead space with a USB power outlet. Looks like the space was made for it.

    IMG_2135.JPG IMG_2134.JPG

    The USB outlet I used was a Mroinge from Amazon for $15: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N1993MV/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_IvWDDb8Q7KM3A
    It's pretty unique, because it displays the battery voltage, USB volts and amps, AND it has a convenient on/off switch, so you can turn it off when not in use so it doesn't run the battery down.

    IMG_2133.JPG

    Pairs well with my Quadlock, which holds my smart phone, which I use with Backcountry Navigator as my only GPS.

    IMG_2131.JPG IMG_2132.JPG
  18. Aguaski

    Aguaski Been here awhile

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    That looks nice. How did you mount the USB outlet? It looks like maybe you used Velcro to attach below the trip meter?
  19. Sachou

    Sachou Been here awhile

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    Just 3M VHB double sided mounting tape. That stuff sticks anything flat and smooth to anything else flat and smooth and will never let go.
  20. HardWorkingDog

    HardWorkingDog Super Ordinary

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    That's a double-edged sword :)
    I work with VHB tape...you get one chance, once it's stuck it's stuck. Extremely difficult to remove.