The official XT225 thread!

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by wickerman777, Nov 4, 2006.

  1. Aguaski

    Aguaski Been here awhile

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    I’m not aware of any relocation options that preserve the remote option. I too have wanted to use the space occupied by the remote to add a USB charger. I have been considering abandoning the remote and going with a choke knob at the carb.

    https://procycle.us/product/98-choke-knob
  2. jimroid

    jimroid Been here awhile

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    I have and like the choke knob in the stock location. I mounted a USB port on the left side of handle bar and a Tiny Tach in between the bar clamps.
  3. NC Rick

    NC Rick Cogent Dynamics Inc

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    On mine, the stock choke bracket will not fit the handlebar clamps. My idle mix screw is set to two turns out. I took the bike out and rode it for a while. I like it. It cruises at 50-60 at nice low rpm. The front brake could be stronger for that use...
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  4. Tom S

    Tom S Can I ride it? Supporter

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    I don’t know how much stuff you took out of the carb when freshening it up & doubt you went this far but there a couple things that are easy to put in wrong if you really dismantle the carb a lot farther than usually needed.
    The needle jet slot faces engine, it’s shown in the manual wrong way,180 degrees out.
    Can’t find it right now but another item in the XT carb that is easily reinstalled backwards is what some call the ‘slide glide’.

    Carb needle jet.jpg

    BST34 in Polaris_TrailBoss_330.jpg
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  5. oughtsix

    oughtsix Reverse Engineer

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    Oct 11, 2013
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    Made some progress tonight.

    Tore it apart again today to be a little more thorough.
    My earlier memory of a 135 main was incorrect. It is a 130, with a 40 pilot. Starts right up and doesn't need the choke very long at all (mere seconds).

    While it was apart:
    Reset fuel screw to 2.25 turns out.
    Set the float height to 14.5 or so. The float wasn't "square" by a half mm or so, so I have one side at 14.2ish and the other at 14.7ish. In spec. Was a little high as found (15.3), so this may have contributed to a lean condition.
    Also, I checked the packaging that the rebuild kit cam in, and found a liiiiiiitle tiny bag with a liiiiiiitle tiny washer in it. Struck with a moment of clarity I mic'd it. 0.020 on the nose. Hmm. Slipped it over the needle, under the clip and reinstalled.


    Seems to be a big improvement. Idles smoother and lower. Handles 0-1/4 throttle better and minimal sputtering when whacking it from 1/2 to WOT. Still hesitates a little, but I wonder if I'm expecting more than the 225 can deliver power wise... :jackfeels like time to get it on the road and run it to see how it does at speed.

    Thanks for all the help, it's coming together...
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  6. NC Rick

    NC Rick Cogent Dynamics Inc

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    Make sure the little washer is in place under the spring that goes around the idle mixture adjusting screw. Nothing wrong with the old one but I have a tendency to forget and blow them to Kingdom Come with the air nozzle when cleaning carbs...

    that washer and the o ring keeps the air from leaking in.
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  7. oughtsix

    oughtsix Reverse Engineer

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    Interesting info....didn't remove a washer from there that I recall, but deffo did r/r an o ring..... That may be where the darn thing was supposed to go.

    Looks like I need a 132.5 or 135 main. May order a few tonight just to try.
  8. NZSpokes

    NZSpokes Been here awhile

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    Sep 13, 2017
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    Auckland New Zealand
    Has anybody tried to fit a DR650 tank? I have one at work and it looks close to the XT one.

    Could be worth a try.
  9. dbarale

    dbarale Squiddly slow

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    If only you knew a good suspension guy who could help you lower the rear an inch or so to make up for the slightly taller tire...
  10. NC Rick

    NC Rick Cogent Dynamics Inc

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    The tire would actually “give back” some of the lost travel imposed by the lowering of the shock but guys on this thread have talked about swing arm clearance issues which I could see being counter productive when it comes to mud, dead-fall and even rocks.

    I don’t feel a need to make a bike I bought because it is relatively small any bigger. I think I’m going to go with MT-21 tires on this thing as they seem like a decent 50/50 proposition which are available in the stock type tire sizes. If I were going bigger, I would likely use the XCMH rear with an XCMS front. I’m still arguing with my self over the options.

    I do have some stuck spokes on the front wheel to deal with. I guess I’ll buy a full set and replace them all.
  11. rc51kid

    rc51kid Been here awhile

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    Just looked at my rear wheel. I t has a few bent spokes from my wife crashing and hitting the spokes. It wasnt from a impact on the rim bit a impact to the spokes. I got a spoke kit from Yamaha. Do you guys think i can kust replace one spome at a time and tighten it back up?
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  12. norton73

    norton73 drinkin' Supporter

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    Doubtful, most wheels are laced with inside and outside spokes, inside being the inside of the hub flange. Working the spokes past each other would be difficult at best.

    I have heard of people wire tying the spokes together where they cross, removing the rim, then replacing a few at a time. Never tried it, I learned how to lace rims many years ago. There's probably a few videos out there on how to do it.
  13. NC Rick

    NC Rick Cogent Dynamics Inc

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    I have done that successfully. I clip out the bad ones, one at a time and tension it. If the rim is still true, just be judicious in how you do it. I like to replace them in pairs, in the “big V” they form on the same side.if the rim has run out, it can often be corrected. Tensioning all the spokes correctly after is good. While replacing spokes, try to match the existing tension of the spokes around it. Feel them for deflection and tap on them for sound. It’s all very “touchy feely”.

    as said above, a little deflection may be needed to weave the spoke back in. With the tire off and the nipple out, I have been able to “bow” them to get back in. I think my limited experience is with 21’ front rims...
  14. oughtsix

    oughtsix Reverse Engineer

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    Finally got the bike road legal, and was able to go out and thrash it pretty hard. To review, I've cleaned carb, installed kit, 40/130 jets, needle shimmed 0.020, fuel screw out 3 turns. Midrange hesitation is much reduced, should have larger jets in today to hopefully resolve. The issue still hanging out there is a weird miss that comes and goes at higher RPM. The bike will accelerate and pull from low RPM, but most of the time has a miss that is almost like the kill switch is being blipped on and off very fast. No "bogging". Just sharp staccato misses enough to upset the line leaned over in a curve.

    So I rode back home and started to look it over. Now, rule number uno when pretending to be an elec-chicken is to check the grounds. Starting there I found a three-way ground connector by the battery that was slightly suspect. While I was there I hosed out and greased (dielectric) all the connectors I found both under the seat and by the headlight, spark plug boot, ignition coil. Disassembled sidestand switch and tested to make sure it wasn't wonky. In addition to the ground connector, I found a little corrosion in the key-switch harness. If this doesn't work, I'm probably to the point that I'll just throw a stator/pulser/ignition coil at it to see what happens. CDI seems the least likely, and no damage was evident to the pigtail or case. Wish I had a scope to check out these coils while running. What's frustrating, is that the bike starts and idles perfectly. And when it will accelerate cleanly, it's great.

    Hope to take it out for another flogging tonight after I verify the kill switch controls are squeaky clean.

    Clarke tank inbound from procycle. Black seat cover from ebay on the way. Even bought one of those kyocera phones to use as a gps (OZAT, anyone?) Handguards and doubletake mirror installed. Need to replace these cheng-shin tires (STOCK?!?!), but they handle the lean pretty good so far.
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  15. lamotovita

    lamotovita DAMN SNOWBIRD!

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    Try one size leaner main jet for the high speed miss, or remove the airbox snorkel (which will make the bike much louder). The OE Cheng shin tires were crap when they were new, new, better, tires will make a huge difference.
  16. jimroid

    jimroid Been here awhile

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    9AFCB743-D9D4-461C-BE2E-EA529B9EC54D.jpeg C32B6B03-22D6-4550-A8F3-DF29342548A1.jpeg 07FA1444-25A6-44E7-AD40-13966DF53A00.jpeg
  17. jimroid

    jimroid Been here awhile

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    27A2FC4E-6BC1-4487-9062-DDF423DE98C1.jpeg
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  18. TUCKERS

    TUCKERS the famous james

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    Replaced my leaking fuel tank valve with the Amazon $6.99 generic. Slipped right on. Well I chose to cut the plastic. Don't care its a beater anyway. DC610B2A-1A4A-4560-9556-E9A886CE6121.jpeg
  19. TUCKERS

    TUCKERS the famous james

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    E7BB13C2-61B2-420F-8E61-37B4C0EE3356.jpeg
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  20. Tom S

    Tom S Can I ride it? Supporter

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    Didn't use the generic one I bought because I didn't like the stock selector knob that I couldn't turn with gloves on. (Yes, I could modify/lengthen the generic's too short tube)
    How does yours compare? Gonna lose a lot of reserve fuel?

    PETCOCK 4 POINT 1 - Copy.JPG