The OSET Thread - Will it Roll?

Discussion in 'Trials' started by K_N_Fodder, Dec 8, 2012.

  1. smdub

    smdub Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 5, 2017
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    445
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    Maryland
    I have the seat on kiddo's 20.0R. Yes, it holds on by velcro. It's stays put but is very U shaped vs flat across the top. He slides forward on it which puts his legs/toes at an awkward angle. Its a terrible seat for trail riding. I've thought about using some wood and then foam to make it flatter but I think taking a flat looking seat from anything else, like a CR85/XR100/etc, and just adapting it even if I had to add a few bolts might work better. We're going to be moving him to a bigger bike soon so I stopped messing w/ it.

    W/ power tool packs, the largest might work. You have to worry about sustained amp draw overheating them. The Milwaukee M18 12AH high output might be able to pull it off w/ one set in series. You'd likely have to series AND parallel the smaller packs.
  2. brianjonesphoto

    brianjonesphoto Hacked off

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    18v tool batteries work great on a 36v bike. The 20r is a 48v bike. 3 tool batteries in series will overvolt the controller significantly. 18v is the nominal voltage. The are 5 cell packs with a charaged voltage of about 4.2v per cell. That woudl be 21v. fully charged. I don't know if the controller would handle a 15 cell battery at 63v full charge. The batteries Manny and Boost offers are either 13 or 14 cell. A stock oset battery is 13 cell.

    Still waiting for my new battery. Manny sent me an update and the national holiday shipping fuster cluck has delayed has parts. I'm not too worried about buying a garage built battery. Batteries are not rocket science. If it would cost me near as much once I purchased tooling I'd built my own battery. Good, Cheap, Fast pick 2 or less.

    You could roll your own with Lipo R/C batteries. But you would be about $500 with a charger for a 20ah battery. I decided to buy a boost 15AH battery instead of doing Lipo for my 20R. When I Lipo converted my 16 it was more cost effective and I didn't know aout the tool battery option. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/batteri...ries /// Lipo&nR[capacity][>=][0]=9674&is_v=1
  3. myadvaccount

    myadvaccount n00b

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    Yay! My turn to bump this old thread :)

    Anyways, just wanted to share that we have been using a pair of batteries from Dakota Lithium in the 12.5 (and the old 24v 16") and have been loving it. Twice the run time, half the charge time, half the weight, and likely much longer lifespan. Their customer service leaves much to be desired, but the product is a good fit for this application.

    image_6487327 (2).JPG image_6487327 (1).JPG
    KKeltner, gots_a_sol and Huzband like this.
  4. KKeltner

    KKeltner Adventurer

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    Jul 17, 2017
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    Do you need to convert anything or plug and play? Do you need special charger etc?
  5. myadvaccount

    myadvaccount n00b

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    Supposedly it is important to use a charger designed to charge these type of batteries, so I bought one from Dakota with the battery order, it was like $29. As of now, I just put the alligator clamps from the charger on the batteries while they are on the bike (not using the bike charger/charging port at all). This winter I may set it up so that I can use the charge port (cut charge cable plug and splice onto the new charger), but for now popping a side panel off works fine. Well, mostly fine, still have to either charge one battery at a time, or disconnect the bike wires and charge batteries in parallel.
    KKeltner likes this.
  6. Whiskeywarlord

    Whiskeywarlord Adventurer

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    Jun 19, 2016
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    Location:
    Central Coast, CA
    Suspension and Fasteners - At one of our recent trials a friend had given me a lighter spring to try on my daughters 20.0. Of course, I was so occupied setting kids sections, I wouldnt have a chance to install it until the morning of the event.

    Oset uses a chrome "sex bolt" type of design to mount the shock. Whatever grade of fastener they started out with the hydrogen embrittlement from the chroming process, certainly didn't make them stronger. When I removed the hardware, they were both stressed and bent.
    upload_2021-7-16_9-22-9.jpeg upload_2021-7-16_9-18-22.jpeg

    With a looming start time in mind, knowing I was dealing with a slightly deformed bolt and being a good wrench, I snugged it just to the point of resistance and, SNAP! Damn thing broke right in the middle.

    Whether poor engineering or someone got a hell of a deal on old Harley bolts, there was no way I would be replacing them with the stockers. Off to the hardware drawers at my local Ace Hardware! Shoulder bolts proved to be a better solution as they are ideal for pivot points. They're grade 8 and the alloy sleeve provides a more durable surface. Fit the end with a nylock nut and you're good to go!
    [​IMG]

    Next time you have the shock off, do yourself a favor and replace those mounting bolts once and for all!
    gots_a_sol likes this.
  7. smdub

    smdub Been here awhile

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    Maryland
    I had the same problem:
    https://advrider.com/f/threads/the-oset-thread-will-it-roll.847080/page-8#post-39162659
    Don't think it was hydrogen embrittlement in the orig bolt, more its just made of chinesium. Its not hardened at all. Mine didn't crack but was bent all to hell and could see where is was starting to shear.

    If you can find a real bicycle shock (air or spring) like I did it was a GREAT upgrade. I also ended up replacing the fork w/ a Manitou Circus(?) but the rear shock was by far the biggest improvement to the suspension. I have since sold his 20R as he outgrew it (and wanted to go faster) and got him a Segway X160.