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Discussion in 'New Zealand' started by Box'a'bits, Aug 22, 2010.
Is that an NZ bike?
I wish. No, that was built in the UK.
We are no longer a 2 scooter family. Sold.....
always a little sad when ya have to let one of the stallions go....donkeys not so much
Why would you get rid of the most reliable ones in the fleet.
Ummm, that would be because 768kms (since new) in 2 yrs?
You should have riden it more....
That's 500 kms more at least than my garage queen
MAINTENANCE - 24th Mar 56,269 miles:
Katdash LED circuit board warning lights
Some time ago, a Katdash LED warning light circuit board came up on Trade me. The vendor had bought 2 in error, & was looking to move one on. Naturally I jumped on it. I have just gotten around to fitting it.
This required removing the headlight front, popping the black plastic cover off the warning lights, unplugging the loom connector from the circuit board, then sliding the warning light bulb covers & circuit board out. The circuit board is held in place on the warning bulb cover with 2 small screws. It isn’t necessary to remove the ignition.
Stock warning light circuit board
Katdash circuit board. Testing high bean, oil pressure & neutral lights.
Fitting is the reverse. The kit comes with 3 new stainless screw (2 are necessary & 1 is a spare).
In my photos there is no alternator light – I run an EnDuraLast constant magnet alternator, which is different to the stock Bosch alternator. In some ways this is a pity as the Katdash runs a clever wee resister which replaces the 3w alternator light as part of the alternator exiciter circuit.
Fitted. Very happy
The other improvement of note is the work John did on the sidestand (actually some time ago). I had him mimic the spring system from the stock sidestand, but so that the stand wouldn't auto retract. This is now a much better system than I had.
The nerd / geek in me does like the look of those Katdash LED idiot light displays, however, one criticism I've heard is that the main beam warning light is way to bright at night, which unfortunately is when you're going to be using the main beam.
I look forward to hearing your thoughts after you've done some nocturnal exploring.
As for the side stand, I could be missing something obvious here, but what's the advantage of using the twin springs and the little plate that pivots on the peg?
Florence has the factory auto-collapsing side stand, which I've never had any problems with, and see no reason to change (unless I wanted to remove the engine bars). However Steffy has a Phreaky Phil sidestand, but with the single spring, and again, the system works well enough for me not to give it a second thought ... well, not until you walk into the side stand when the bike is up on the centre stand. Then I think about it, and I think it's probably the work of the devil ...
Yes, I'd heard the same about the high beam. Worst case I'll get a bit of tinted acrylic to tone it down some.
The sidestand is a Phreaky Phil copy. When it was put together the spring / peg relationship wasn't quite right. It had a habit of breaking springs & auto deploying when the pivots got dirty, which was a little exciting. It's a vicious flick up now with the revised spring system. No chance of an auto deploy.
Yeah, a bit of tinted acrylic would do the job, so that would get the KISS seal of approval.
Humm, yes, I could live without that kind of excitement ...
BMW headlight bezel. Mumble mumble. F#%k mumble mumble
memories......... la la la...
OF RACKS & OTHER THINGS:
The last big ride the Supertanker did was the Wanganui Wander, way back in Aug ’18. At that stage the left pannier rack broke. I jury rigged that back together with some cam lock straps. And took the smooth way home rather than stress things any more. It did a little commuting while Gus was being fixed, post the Slidecars in the Top of the South Nov trip, & aside from that has lurked in the back of the garage.
The basic issue was that the PO has welded the rear rack AND the left pannier rack (which subsequently broke) to the subframe. And the subframe had cracked under the weld. I assume this was a similar jury rig while on tour, & not fixed. That munted all three: the pannier rack, the rear rack & the subframe.
Photo from when I first bought the bike
In addition to this, the PO had cut the top loop off the rear rack. This was an integral part of the luggage system, with a further linking support removed from the back of the subframe.
Photo from when I first bought the bike
The subframe is a lot shorter than the road going BMWs, so the other luggage frames do not easily convert.
I’ve recently spent some time grinding off the POs stick weld, & separating out the pieces. My goal was to reclaim the subframe & then to figure out a new luggage solution. What I intend to do now is to duplicate the subframe gusset, & weld this in behind the existing subframe support.
I have been quite fortunate in sourcing an R80ST OEM luggage system complete. The sole difference betweeen the R80GS & ST systems is the ST racks came in chrome, not black. They were sold to me by Kane from RTwinworks, but had been sourced off a German ST. A little surface corrosion in the offside pannier gussets, but otherwise good. I’ll need to brace these at the back, but other than that....Very happy.
The only other alternatives were to repair the existing ones (not really viable given damage), make some racks myself (needed tube benders), or Hepco Becker racks (spendy by the time that these were imported).
Mounting will need to wait a bit. Picked up the racks Saturday, just before my niece’s wedding. Monday I had five speed holes put in my belly, which will need some time to heal. Lost my gallbladder (I’m sure I left it round here somewhere), an umbilical hernia, & my 3rd nipple (mark of the Devil).
The Tiger has a brace missing on the pannier racks courtesy of a PO. Hasn't caused any problems fortunately.....should get it replaced though. Had my GB removed a few years ago....good riddance! Caused me no end of drama's.
Good score with the racks. You didn't consider building a new subframe? Time consuming as it is...
The flex is what kills the BMW racks. That said the stock BMW racks are 16mm & quite thin wall tube, so not that strong to start with. Yours look beefier, but given that adventure riding is hard on equipment, if you can get the braces, then I'd do that
It's amazing how many people are popping their heads up now & letting me know this. The surgeon described the gall bladder as an evolutionary left over (like the appendix) - not really needed now we get regular meals. Useful when we got one feed a week, & ate till we passed out. I find I rarely do that these days, so I guess...
Not really. My fabrication skills (& access to equipment) aren't really that developed. Trying to keep things so that I can go back to stock fairly easily.
Yeah, I'm one of the folks who stuck their head over the parapet, and your experience matches mine.
With hindsight, I should have had the damn thing ripped out as soon as the doc figured out there was an issue.
Good luck with having a swift recovery ...
Yes I know the feeling. Everything I've done on the Bemaha can be reversed back with the original parts