Day 71 -1st of July – 70 miles – Mongolia, Tosontsergel - After a good night sleep I visited the dreadful pit toilet (!) before trying to get some breakfast. We asked if we could get some eggs but the landlady said no! So we drank some fruit juice bought from the local store, and some bread with our mixed chocolate spread. We abandoned the rest of the bread...rock hard. We left Nomrog soon after 9 am. From there we were really expecting to see some improvements with the road, after all, in our map, this section is now a " major road"! It had been raining heavily during the night. I was hoping the sand would be compacted, making riding easier. Let's just say it took us 5 hours to do 70 miles! The road went from bad to worse, rivers, mud, sand, holes the size of a truck.... It was very hard and very tiring! I don't have any pictures of the hard parts, as I was too busy riding those and trying not to lose the will to live! We got to Tosontsergel by 2:30 / 3pm.... Although...we must have crossed some invisible portal as we lost another hour to “time travel”.... This time we found two hotels in town. We had high hope of a hot shower and flushable toilet, after all, this town is quite important... It even had an airport, according to my map! Not that we ever found any evidence of an airport and I suspect it is just the Mongols being very optimistic! Unfortunately, there was still no running water in town.... Only drafted from a pump and brought home in containers.... So facilities were the same... No shower and the dreaded pit toilet! We picked the less dodgy looking hotel. Downstairs they had a restaurant, and they even served food there! We managed to get fried eggs and rice! That was quite a nice change from our usual diet! After that we went to look for the local "supermarket" (well, that would be the village shop for you and me!). We met two bikers, a couple from Poland, riding two up on a massive BMW 1200 GS with tons of luggage and stuff. And they looked so clean! My riding suit was covered in mud and sand, my bike the same, my panniers almost invisible through the dust and sand and mud.... They came from a different part of the country.... South. We told them it took us most of the day to do 70 miles.... They said they were doing 250 km a day. My jaw dropped to the floor! And they were not going to stop in town either but continue. Not tired at all! They were going the same way than us from here, East to Tariat and then Tsetselerg. I thought the guy must be some sort of semi God of the off road, we did look rather amateurs and useless with our slow progress! And they were so clean! Not a speckle of mud in their trousers! I could not get over that detail. Anyway, they left and we went back to the hotel, after buying some water. We did not sleep well. The hotel was busy with locals, each room filled with a full extended family. Very noisy. On top of that the sheet over the mattress was so ridiculously small, they always are in Mongolia, it did not cover half the mattress... This was not clean! Stressful!