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Discussion in 'Airheads' started by CanadaBiker, Nov 23, 2014.
It's just for diagnostics methinks. Originally had a little plastic cover, mine's long gone.
I wouldn't go for the mefo's , they wear very uneven within 5000km.
Mitas E09 or E07 might be a very good tyre for your purpose.
looking forward to the progress of your build. I love those mono's.....!!
It looks like you've cut some weight. lol
Thanks for the info! The Mitas E07 looks just right. And it comes in a 100/90 - 19 There's also a 120/80 - 18 rear. (I wasn't sure if I was going to go with a 120 or a 130 on the back)
From the beginning I knew I would be considering a different front end. I ended up finding a ridiculously great deal on a complete DR650 front end: forks, triples, wheel, callipers, MC and all handle bar controls, plus and extra set of forks without springs.
I know the DRZ front end is better, but I had a few reasons for going with the 650 set. I already have a DR in the garage and I liked the idea that I could swap out a 19" and 21" front wheels between two bikes. There is an easy peasy factory lowering procedure. There are some decent upgrades from Racetech or Ricor. And as mentioned, the deal was (beer money) great.
If you look closely I used a piece of PVC pipe to take up the space under the top stem nut. Don't worry it's just temporary. But the longer stem nipple will actually be helpful to take up some of the extra length of the forks.
Having a matching front end to my DR650 has already paid off as I was able to steal the 21 from that bike. (The R80 will get a 19" front to start with.)
I ordered a 19" Rim & Spoke kit and a steering bearing kit from Procycle. They carry an extensive array of DR parts. I hadn't built a wheel in many years. Actually not since I was a teenager and my dad and I built wheels for my MX bikes, but I mostly remembered how. Wirespokes also gave me a nudge to build the wheels myself, including giving a go on the GSPD rear hub/wheel, but that's a whole 'nother kettle of fish.
In the end, my B.I.L actually lead the way on the wheel build. He had built a truck load of MTB bike wheels, and so had the patience to help me with it (and patience is more than half the battle). We got the wheel easily within 5 thou laterally and runout. I bought a decent gauge, and a magnetic arm, so that helped immensely. Plus I used my spare set of front DR forks, fastened to the workbench, as a build stand. ( I plan to build a dedicated balance/build stand for the rear wheel)
I gotta say, building a wheel successfully is incredibly satisfying. It's something I would tend to send out, but after we were done, I just marvelled at it. It's a great confidence boost.
<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/63850205@N04/15699438487" title="Untitled by Karen Pickle, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7562/15699438487_9f3ecc00dd_z.jpg" width="640" height="426" alt="Untitled"></a>
Great report so far, really enjoying the process and learning something too
So I got a bit of time in on the bike over the last day or so:
Even though the DR650 and R80 had the same size neck bearings, the inner races were different. I ordered a set of All Balls with dust seals and set to remove the old BMW inner races.
The top race came out with just a smidgen of heat, and a screw driver under the race. There is a stepped profile where the the bottom of the race sits that allows a small gap on the inside.
The bottom race was not so easy.
I used a dremel to cut a deep groove in the side of the race. The bottom of the neck has no stepped profile like the top race, so it's almost impossible to get anything in under the bottom of the race.
I then ground a large allen key with a flat end on the hook. I was able to get it to grab in the groove I cut, then I pulled downward on the allen wrench and used a peace of hardwood and a ballpeen hammer down through the neck. It came out somewhat easily.
I used one of the old inner races to drive the new races into place.
To remove the inner race from the the bottom of the triple tree nipple, I first cut the cage and pins from the race.
With some help from my BIL, we then found and old 15/16 wrench and ground the inner sides into an angle to match the tapper on the race. We slide the wrench over the race. There is a profile on the end of the race to keep the wrench from slipping off and we got about 4 hits before the end of the race broke. But by then it had started to slip down the nipple.
I know I could have used proper tools, but with a bit of improvising, we managed.
For the DR forks, I first did the factory lowering method. Sorry, I didn't get many pics. Basically there is a 1 3/4 spacer under the top caps. You remove the cap, and pull the spacer, and springs. Then you remove the bottom hex bolt from the bottom of the fork and remove the damper rod. The top spacer them goes between the short anti-bottom out springs and the top of the damper rod. You put it back together, and the forks are now aprox 1 3/4 shorter.
The neck on the R80 is shorter than the DR, so to use the DR steering stem, you need to take up the space below the bearing nut. I found bearing spacers at TSC that work perfect, although I might eventually get a pal to cut me one solid spacer. I also want to fab up a new dust cap that will cover the spacers and over the top portion of the steering head. The chrome BMW dust cap is now too short. to cover the spacers and the top of the bearing seal.
I got the triples,and forks installed, added the fork oil, and presto. I haven't greased the bearings yet, since I'm going to very shortly rip the bike parts to get the frame painted. I might also dill the stem so that I can use the steering lock.
Check that nipple, (or steerring stem).
When I fitted mine, I found out that the stem between the bearing seats is narrower, and with all the spacers all at the top, the top bearing seats only partly.
So I divided, half the spacers under the lower bearing and half on top of the upper.
Maybe the BMW cover will then be of use, I fitted mine below the top spacers.
Ah yes, "steering stem". In a previous life I was a pipe welder so I call everything a nipple.
And now that I picture it, you are right. The stem does taper down between the ends. I'll have to check and see if the the top bearing is above the taper.
I was hoping to keep all the spacers at the top, since I think I'll be fighting fork height anyway, and putting spacers at the bottom will raise the front end, if only a little. Once I get the front wheel on, I can look closer at front height and sag. I assumed I would be raising the rear end a bit to get the geometry back.
Did you install a DR front end as well?
Yes, I fitted a DRZ400S front end as well.
How I proceded;
Lowered the swingarm untill the U-joint rubs, measured the shock lenght at 387 mm.
Made a strut from a piece of steel tube at 380 mm.
That's the max at the rear.
Then put a small sciccor lift under the engine and set the rake at 27 degree, this is where BMW and Suzuki are at.
Fitted the complete DRZ front end and measured how much the forks needed shortening.
Ended up at 50ish mm.
So 50 mm spacers were fitted.
As soon as I get my front tire, I'll be able to have a closer look at the rake. I may pick your brain some more on that stuff.
I did a few things on the bike today. Started de-tabing the subframe. Lots of grinding to do yet.
Plus I test fitted my 'new' air filter shells and starter cover. I need to get the rubber crankcase vapour hose that goes into the right carb as the original ' new style' air box had hoses into both carbs. I also need to get that little starter end cover and wire clip. The one that keeps crud from falling into the starter gear teeth and ring gear?
I'll also have to figure out what engine badges I will put on the starter cover. Maybe an R80/7 badge, but that's not really correct. I have a pal or two with CNC machines. Maybe I'll get some custom engine badges made.
Oh, I also stripped the paint from the valve cover, except now they're way shinnier than the rest of the bike. I know it's fashionable to switch to the old peanut covers, and I might do that yet, But I've been starting to dig the slight deco look of what I call the machine head covers.
It looks nice with the silver covers. I have them on my R80 and think they make the valve train noise much quieter than the peanuts...great to see progress!
Wait a minute, did I miss the seat mod?
Nice work. You're going to have a nice/fun bike when you're finished.
I've heard that the new style covers are quite. And I hate valve noise. Maybe another reason to keep them.
I cut the RT seat in half and then did a quick and dirty on folding the seat cover over the back and riveting it in place. I did it early on, but intend to fab a proper seat. I'm torn between doing a solo seat, or a full bench, or maybe a 3/4 seat. My wife almost never rides on my bikes. Very occasionally out for breakfast on a nice Sunday morning; twice a season at most. If I do a solo seat, I will fab a nice carry rack over the fender. I want the bike to well setup for solo travel with lots of wild camping. But on the other hand, when you want to have a passenger... Guess I need another bike just for that.
great report ,is there annything new to report ?
I've made a bit of progress. Started the prep for the tank, and I did some changes on the rear end.