The Suzuki PE thread

Discussion in '2 smokers' started by sidetrack one, Jan 18, 2013.

  1. LWC3077

    LWC3077 Adventurer

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    The speedo shown above might be 77 TS250. The thing is most suzukis that era, had multiple types of speedos per model depending on market. Some were Nippon Denso and some Nippon Seiki, some with MPH and some with KPH or some with both. I have a NOS 77 KPH speedo and it gors up to 140km but the face and trip knob is a little different.

    To get a speedo that looks the same as the PE you can go about it a few ways. The T500 (and other road biikes) around 71-74 roughly have the exact same plastic case and trip knob but the faces are black and not brown and were all in MPH i believe and i dont think they will read correct for a PE 21" wheel. Some expert instrument place could probably re-calibrate it though.

    Off the top of my head i do not think any other suzukis use a brown 160km face which the PE's had. I think (your gonna have to check this) the TF185 farm bikes (not sold in USA????) had the same plastic speedo and i think with brown face but only up to 140km i reckon. I am really sketchy on that but i am hoping to give you some avenues to go down. 76 TS250/400 have a plastic case speedo's teh same as PE but mot or all the ones i have seen have a slightly different trip knob and have a black face. However the actual trip meter mechanism is better than the PE's. I am pretty certain that 76 or 75? TS250/400 is the closest you will find to a PE speedo that will go up to 160km or equivalent in MPH. There are other brown faced speedos in 160km scale from bikes like SP370 but they are the metal cased type with chrome top bezel like 77-79 TS250.

    Just start looking at parts drawings of 1970's suzukis and also photos on internet sites and ebay.

    This is the T500 speedo which will get you the right case and trip knob as the PE speedo but it has a black face and the guts wont be correct because the T500 has 19" front wheel

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Suzuki-500-...ash=item1a1d883f30:g:QMAAAOSwpLNX~Wc7&vxp=mtr
  2. 2StrokesForever

    2StrokesForever Adventurer

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    To Buy or Not: 1978 PE175

    Hi all,

    I'm a "lurker"--yeah, I said it--LOL.

    I just read the entire "The PE Thread" and enjoyed it immensely! (I've always been a fan of the PE's but never had a chance to ride one.)

    I've got a line on a 1978 PE175, now, however. The guy is interested in selling, thinks he wants $800. (USD), but doesn't know much about the bike, having bought it off a guy, a few months ago, who inherited it from his father, sadly.

    So...the Seller says he lacks space/needs the money. Says it starts right up, shifts out well (though he thought it was only a 5-speed) and "...performed great on the trails."

    I've owned a 1981 TS185 for more than 30 years, so I'm familiar with this size/brand of enduro, but not the PE line, specifically. IOW, when I hear it, I'll (hopefully) be able to identify piston slap, if any, and I'll bring my mechanic's stethoscope with me, and try to listen to the bottom end (though I don't have my TS185 near me, to compare, and I'm sure any 2-stroke of this era's bottom end will sound "scary" through a stethoscope--LOL).

    My Questions, So Far:

    1. Anyone Have a Checklist of Problems to Look for on a 1978 PE175?


    2. What Should the Compression PSI be:

    Cold and/or Warm?


    3. Can anyone link me to a Haynes/Clymer and/or Factory Workshop Manual (FWM)?

    I searched the AWESOME assemblage of resources in this thread (https://onedrive.live.com/?id=407D7EF0965D3991!1086&cid=407D7EF0965D3991) but I could not find a SERVICE manual for a 1978 PE175 there.


    4. How About The PRICE? (I should add--Seller has NO TITLE)

    In this entire thread, I don't see anyone paying more than about $350. for PE's, up to and including the PE400's (or, at least, admitting to it--LOL) . And from the one pic the gentleman sent me, while the bodywork looks surprisingly good, there is no speedo or odo, so mileage is UNKNOWN, and there appears to be some fairly heavy oxidation on the front forks/wheel, and rust on the pipe, if not the rear springs, as well.

    So, IF the compression is in range, and IF there are no scary noises, and IF the frame's not bent and it starts and shifts out well, I'm thinking $600. is a fair price. Your thoughts?


    5. What Should I Look for on the Front Hub, to Determine if I Can Add a Speedo or an Odo to this Bike?


    6. Checking the Swingarm Bearings--Any Links/Advice?
    I know how to check, and adjust, the steering head bearings, but I've never checked the swingarm bearings on a bike (my TS is in great shape, with low miles). Do I just put the bike up on a milk crate, have a friend hold it, and try to get the swingarm to move from side-to-side?

    Would it also help to put a small, hydraulic bottle jack under the swingarm bearing shaft-area, on each side, and look for up-and-down movement?

    Or?


    7. I'm in the US of Anarchy: Can I Apply for a Missing Title WITHOUT Seller's Future Cooperation?

    Thanks, in advance, for any and all help/answers.

    2StrokesForever
  3. JCool

    JCool Long timer

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    A PE never would have had a title. Offroad machines weren't titled until much more recently. I wouldn't worry about current compression or noises unless it sounds like you're shaking a coffee can full of marbles.
  4. neil w

    neil w Been here awhile

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    Regarding Suzuki speedos, the head units all have the same internal gearing , as long as the gearing in the hub or separate drive unit is correct for the size of wheel fitted on the bike the speedo will be fine.

    My katana 1100 speedo was fine on the original 19" rim with correct drive ,similarly it now has a gsxr1100 k front end and runs with either a 17" or 18" rim and as long as i use the correct drive it is fine (checked with sat nav).

    I rebuilt a drum brake front end PE175 in the early 90's and used the speedo from a gt250x7 and it was accurate
    gpuk likes this.
  5. 2StrokesForever

    2StrokesForever Adventurer

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    To All,

    I've answered a couple of my own questions.

    While (initially) I couldn't find any shop manuals on the Yahoo PE Owner's site (https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/PEmotorcycles/info), "Luke," of that yahoo group, linked me to what I'd actually already seen, here, but failed to adequately explore, namely:

    https://onedrive.live.com/?id=407D7EF0965D3991!1086&cid=407D7EF0965D3991

    And in that, I found a link to the Clymer manual, here:
    https://onedrive.live.com/?cid=407D7EF0965D3991&id=407D7EF0965D3991!1969&parId=407D7EF0965D3991!1961&o=OneUp

    If anyone has links to either the Haynes manual, and a Factory Workshop Manual (FWM), I would very much appreciate you posting them.

    In the Clymer manual, I found that the compression psi is to be taken on a warm engine, and a "normal" compression should be about 140psi, with anything below 100psi considered to be too low.

    >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

    To JCool,

    Not to seem "argumentative" (at all, especially since I'm a "noob," but) it seems PE's were licenseable in some countries (as indicated by posts in this very thread). However, they were configured in various ways, some jurisdictions requiring horns, speedos and possibly even turn signals, along with differing specs re: head and tail lights, etc....

    Check this ad out, below, as it clearly implies that PE's were designed (again, in some but perhaps not ALL) jurisdictions, to be driven on the road, as shown and/or implied in this ad:
    [​IMG]

    Source:
    http://habermannandsons.tumblr.com/image/44026280494
    >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

    To Neil W.:
    Thank you, very much, for sharing your expertise re: compatible speedo-units, etc....

    It makes me think I should definitely purchase that PE Parts Cross-Reference Software (http://www.zedder.com/itm00612.htm) so that I will be able to quickly tell what else might be swapped into service on the PE.
    >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

    To all, again,

    If anyone wants to take a crack at any (other, remaining) of my original, seven (7) questions, it'd be much-appreciated.

    I'm particularly interested in opinions re: the Seller's $800. USD asking price--though, I suspect, for me, he'd lower it, possibly to $600. But again, with No Title, Unknown Mileage and the oxidation and corrosion as I described, above, I'm not sure if $600.-800. is too much.

    To be clear: I don't personally want to license it, as I don't have the balls to ride on the road, on anything other than a bicycle--especially now, with all the (built-in!) in-car "infotainment" distractions, PLUS the idiots constantly TEXTING while DRIVING! Arrgghh....

    Rather, I'd like to opinions on how much the lack of a title might hurt me, financially, in resale as, ultimately, I'd like to get ahold of a PE250, and sell this PE175 (assuming I buy it, of course). But for now, I'll take any PE I can get, and this PE175 just might be available to me, if I'm lucky....

    Thanks again, and in advance,

    2StrokesForever

    Attached Files:

  6. neil w

    neil w Been here awhile

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    When the PE's ceased being current models (mid to late 80's) a mate in the bike trade wanted a nice trail bike and combined a PE250 frame and running gear with a later aircooled TS250 ER engine (mildly tuned) along with all the electrics and posilube system .

    Later ended up fitting the disc brake front end from a 1986 RM250 , cracking trail bike but with the UK costs now of even wrecked PE's and TS models it would be prohibitively expensive to repeat today
  7. FR700

    FR700 Heckler ™©®℗

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    Your imagination.

    They most certainly were over here in OZ. Your pic is of a young Anthony Gunter, Australian MX champ'.



    [​IMG]
  8. Pezz_gs

    Pezz_gs Cant ride for crap

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    This thread is a great resource, thanks to all who have contributed :clap

    I have inserted a PE175 motor into an RV125 frame and the reference information has helped me no end

    Thanks All!!
    Chuck Roll likes this.
  9. philip kyhn

    philip kyhn Adventurer

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    Maybe somebody knows? Is there a difference between the 250 and the 400 pipe? I am looking at a 400, but it needs a pipe, now I have to do some home work.
    Well its not a bike, only parts of a bike!!
    plastics.jpg
    frame and wheels.jpg
  10. philip kyhn

    philip kyhn Adventurer

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    Got this off "endurobiketalk" I will put it to the test.
    From speaking to owners who own both PE 250 and 400's we have come to the conclusion 250 and 400 pipes are pretty much identical except for the front section being a bit longer on the 250 and shorter on the 400 because of the larger barrel.
  11. gpuk

    gpuk Adventurer

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    I've heard they are different philip, I have the 250 and require a repair or new pipe. To which no one is interested in even looking at it!

    Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk
  12. CJBDRdude

    CJBDRdude Ridin'offroadCJ

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    There is a PE facebook page with a wealth of info if anyone here is interested. This one here is good though minimal info.
  13. Knute Dunrvnyet

    Knute Dunrvnyet Padawan

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    I earned my 'B' enduro points on a Yam IT175D, then bought my PE400 from my brother- almost new. He was working @ a Suz dealer, and was gonna use it as a dual-sport, w/ his dealer plate...But, as we know, PEs are specialized bikes, indeed, "Pure Enduro." I first thought it'd be peaky, like the small bike- but it was a 2-stoke thumper. Easy to go fast through the woods...
    scan0012.jpg
    Speedsville Nat'l Enduro
    CJBDRdude and dpforth like this.
  14. Knute Dunrvnyet

    Knute Dunrvnyet Padawan

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    scan0011.jpg
    D4 Enduro
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  15. gpuk

    gpuk Adventurer

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    I'm on there already has been a help sourcing parts and advice
    Guy

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  16. CJBDRdude

    CJBDRdude Ridin'offroadCJ

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    Two of my many PEs. 1981 175x and 1984 175z 106.jpg
  17. mcoulter

    mcoulter Adventurer

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    Love it!

    I'm soooo happy I found this thread. We still have a 1982 RS175 in the family. This was my father's bike when we rode together back in the 1980s. I think it was 1983 or 1984 when he bought it used. Besides some plastic that has been replaced and some new tires, I think it's 100% stock.

    Here's me on my kx 80 next to the RS:

    [​IMG]


    I'm toying with the idea of doing a vintage hare scramble with it, and while it's been lightly used, the darn thing is 36 (!) years old :-) My thoughts:

    1) Compression test it. If low (less than 110 psi or so?) plan on doing a top-end job on it. If I find the compression is OK, would it be worth doing new piston and rings anyway as a preventative measure?

    2) Replace reeds and gaskets. It looks like I can still get boyesen reeds for this model :-)

    3) True the rims. They are really, really wobbly. I'll let google by my friend on this one!

    It's worth noting that the bike runs pretty well. In fact I had a bone-head crash on it back in the fall of 2015. I was "testing" it and decided to take it up a hill just wearing just sneakers. Well me being the dummy that I am, let it come on the powerband right at a little ledge going up the hill, looped it and broke my right ankle. STOOOPIDDD! I think it is time to pull the dirt out of the exhaust pipe (it's literally still there) and get it going again!


    And a few more shots:

    Dad riding (RIP) :-(

    [​IMG]


    Me riding my later PE 175 at the Enfield NY hare scramble:

    [​IMG]


    After the race with my dad and niece and nephew:

    [​IMG]


    Me riding the PE in the woods near my house:

    [​IMG]


    Thanks for reading and I hope I'm able to report back some good news....


    Oops. Almost forgot about this photo of my daughter riding the RS 175!

    [​IMG]
    I.P. Freely, Pezz_gs, tommyg and 3 others like this.
  18. CJBDRdude

    CJBDRdude Ridin'offroadCJ

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    very cool!
  19. neil w

    neil w Been here awhile

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    img173 1.jpg One I sorted out for a mate many moons ago
    sidetrack one and aptbldr like this.
  20. LWC3077

    LWC3077 Adventurer

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