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Discussion in 'Equipment' started by hilslamer, Sep 2, 2007.
Thanks I found them on Amazon a little cheaper.
Found a new addition to my toolkit. Nice sharp knurling helps keep the grip even when hands are sweaty/greasy.
It uses the standard type bits and also has flats to so it can be used with a 17mm wrench.
One of mine
Carried on my belt.
I have a stupid question...
Can a spark plug fail immediately or would it give plenty of warning to be replaced before a breakdown?
It depends on the bike...but they can 'foul' with excess fuel or carbon and cause them to stop working. Typically though, you have some sort of warning that it's not running right before that happens.
So a good running bike that does not burn oil or run rich should not have a plug problem?
The reason I ask is that I have always kept properly gaped plugs in my bikes and replaced them every few years, I was wondering if it were possible that a plug could just fail without any warning .
Yes, a plug can fail. A plug can crack from a shock (cold water), vibration, etc. It's not very common, but it can happen.
I need some help with the master cylinder cap removal tool ... or a length of string? The string is a suitable substitute? Confused. Thanks.
I bent a wire coat hanger to make a tool.
I think this is one of the most important tools in my set.
I have a jeep and I go rock crawling quite often. one day while crawling, I had a precarious rock smash against and crack a rear brake line. I ended up using my vice grips to crimp and roll the end of the tube a few times and then clamp it so I had "some" brakes to get back down the mountain. It would have been quite a challenge to work a brake and clutch pedal while steering and shifting gears along with the hand throttle.
I have used them as an extra tie down point, a clamp, a hammer, a pot handle, a crimper, a wire cutter, a button setter, a grommet setter, and as weight to keep a tarp down on a breezy day.
Just my $0.02, buy good ones in various sizes, stay away from the Harbor Freight ones, you can actually miss-align the jaws by twisting0 a skid plate back into place.
At this point, based on what I've read here I don't believe there is anything they can't do...
Here is a lightweight and durable screwdriver idea. Not very expensive either:
If you have strong fingers you can just squeeze the tabs. If not, a length of fishing line wrapped around it works.
More expensive overall but even better, more versatile, and replaces several tools in your kit (1/4" drive spinner handle, ratchet, socket kit, bit kit):
Behold the holy grail of tool kit screwdrivers, unfortunately now discontinued.
Six blades, three Phillips, three straight blade, all store in the handle so they won’t poke holes in a tool bag or a person. The blades are held captive so you can’t lose them and have normal size shafts so they fit in places those big fat multi tip jobs won’t.
I gave these away as Christmas presents for a number of years and everybody loved them. I don’t understand why they aren’t available anymore.
I went with this one because of the weight.
Thanks, Jim. Now I see how that works.
for the people who bought the asahi lightweight spanner sets, can you tell me why you havent bought the thin ones instead?
They are actually in some cases lighter than their lightweight counterparts, and the set is about half the price of the lightweight one too. Am i missing something here? Just really curious by the way, not trying to sound smart. that they are thinner, should be a good thing i would think, that way you might be able to squeeze them into parts where you sometimes cant.
For me it was because I want the box end part. Gripping from all sides is way more secure than just two.
Also, of the 12 bikes I have I’ve never needed a thin wrench to do any maint. or more complex breakdown on any of them. A thicker tool gives more contact area so less likely to slip and damage the fastener.